Thread: J. B. Weld Question

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I am currently doing a project with J. B. Weld (the steel reinforced slow set two tube type) and I'm wondering if you can put a thin finish coat layer on after the first application sets up? The thickest part of the original application isn't even an 1/8" thick and a finish coat would be probably much less than 1/16" thick and for looks only.

TIA,
Em

If you were laying up a glass project, you could add layer on layer of epoxy. I can't see that J.B. Weld would be any different. It's also an epoxy, isn't it?

i am one who praises the worth of jb weld .. i have even stuck it to a head and drilled and taped it for a bolt once ...

depending on what the project is, you may wanna scuff up the existing coat a little before applying the finish coat to help with the bonding process...

what randy said, plus make sure it's super clean/degreased. Otherwise, it works.

Thanks Gents, I'm actually trying to adhere a flat washer over the warped/dented oil pan drain hole area and hopefully get a good mating surface once again for the plug and gasket. I guess the Barrio Bros made a lowrider out of it and then forgot that it was close to the ground. I'm gonna wait overnight before I try and back out the bolt and find out if everything (that was supposed to) held and everything that I greased and teflon taped will release. If all looks good I want to finish it down smooth and paint it so I will heed all of your suggestions.

P.S. I realize that I should have had it brazed on but right now, the shade tree way, is all I have to offer.

Em

you can but i. abrade the surface with sand paper or a knife to get the top shinny coat off to dull JB up so you will get better hook up on the new top coat . JB weld i used it many times on intake ports like the roofs on the old 862 bow tie heads and port blending were time and welding with a tig is not in the plans. to get the best hookup on the surface clean with thinner then wire wheel if needed . i used a spring loaded punch and prick punch were i going to putty .this helps hook up the putty . a small shop pocket steel ruler works for tooling it and some lacquer thinner to keep ruller clean and from sticking by damping it or a finger works good to if you keep it damp with thinner . there not much sanding if you take your time ,but some may worry about damping you finger in thinner i am past that .there other stuff like A&B putty and spalsh zone but the JB work s good for most stuff

That might work but I would definitely keep an eye on it. I used JB Weld to repair a crack in the old aluminum oil filter attachment on my old 352. It worked fine for a few years.

If it doesn't work, you can always get a new oil pan for around $70 but I'm sure the installation won't be as easy as smearing a little JBWeld on it.....

well hell i did not know we are fixing a oil pan try to find some fiber mat or cloth cut if out and lay it up with the JB or if you do not have any of that stuff cut a patch of window screen to help as a backer

I know, Pal, and a new oil pan is probably not too far down the line but I wanted to see if I could get it to where I can enjoy it more than I've been able to lately. Maybe later when I get the tranny serviced, I can get a new pan installed at the same time???????????

Thanks for the tips, Pat.

Em

Somewhere over the winter, I'll be installing my new oil pan. I'll cut you a good deal on the used one.

you gotta SB Ffffffurd?
summit's got'em cheap
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3534/overview/

I"ll probably replace the oil pump and shaft also so might as well get'em all at the same time - - saves on shipping too

as you can probably tell, right now I'm gonna duct tape, bailing wire and bandaid things until I make sure I'm gonna keep it

Yup... SBF (347), gonna use a shelby aluminum pan. Whatever you decide is fine. I'll stick it on a wall otherwise.

I do appreciate it - - - are you sure that will fit a mid-60s 289?

It's a front sump, I can't see why it wouldn't. I don't remember the part number but it came from summit so I could look it up.