Thread: sbc pan gasket

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Not sure that you need it with the 265 or not, but some of the "mini's" tend to be significantly higher torque than stock, from what I've seen.

I have the header pipe wrapped now but I think it would look better to have the mini starter rather than the pipe wrapped.

I have ceramic coated headers on it now and I think a chrome plated mini starter would look better. The trans dipstick is going away and a cutdown stock dipstick will take its place. Plus I'm changing the heads, the intake, the pan and front cover and cleaning up the wiring some.

http://www.clubhotrod.com/attachment...swap-eng31.jpg

Tom,
Doing a bit more "surfing" and it's sounding like all of the Chevy mini starters are block mount. I'd still probably call Summit, Jegs and/or Speedway to see what they say.

I think Roger is correct - seems to me they're all block mounted. That said, the smaller starter is actually a bit further from the heat source and you may not have an issue. I'd be inclined to install a quality mini and see what you get. I've used a few of them with vehicles using headers and have not had a heat issue.

Originally Posted by glennsexton

I think Roger is correct - seems to me they're all block mounted. That said, the smaller starter is actually a bit further from the heat source and you may not have an issue. I'd be inclined to install a quality mini and see what you get. I've used a few of them with vehicles using headers and have not had a heat issue.

Not sure that the 265ci SBC is drilled & tapped for the block mount?

The 265 is not drilled and tapped for a starter but I think a mini could be drilled to bolt it to the adapter plate that the original stater is mounted on.

http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/data/500/cc7.jpg

Tom,
That may be your only option. Looking at both Rock Auto & NAPA for on-line listings, neither lists a starter for a '56 Chevy 265 engine, only parts to rebuild the OEM starter.

why not just drill and tap the block?




The factory fixture indexing holes are located on that pan rail and its easy to make a simple drill jig that locates from those two holes and use some transfer punches to transfer location for starter holes from a later block and then use that to drill tap your 265 block---altho there won't be the reinforcing boss on the early block, I haven't had any issues on the ones I've done-------

Jerry, that is probably the best way to go. I'll check that out. It might be a little tricky to do upside down under the truck but with a magnetic base drill it might not be so bad.

Food for thought: You realize of course that unless the holes are perfectly aligned you are going to have major bendix gear alignment.

You need to make a drill jig dowelled to those two fixture jigs, use a drill bushing for tap size drill and another for the tap size---won't need a magnetic base drill, you can do it by hand thru the guide bushings and it should be exact---you just probably won't be able to drill out that relievf space where the knurled part of a standard starter bolt fits---but should be just as good and maybe much better than drilling the starter mount to bolt to that trans adapter

Jerry that sounds easy enough. Do you happen to have one of these jigs from a past job i could borrow or buy?

I had one and someone borrowed it evidently as I can't find it, but if I could you d be welcome to it

They have a bare block at the machine shop I can take off a pattern from. Maybe use a 3/8 plate for the jig. Mic all the hole locations and sizes. I can bolt the drill bushings and plate to that block then weld the bushings in place. Place a sleve for the drill in the bushingsThen after drilling the holes in my block I can remove the sleves from the bushings and cut them down some if need be for the tapping. That will allow me to get rid of the adapter plate.