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  • 7 Post By rspears
  • 2 Post By J. Robinson

Thread: Any one seen what you get for $13,200 from N&N ?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Boss Rods is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Post Any one seen what you get for $13,200 from N&N ?

     



    Just how easy and exp. is putting a N&N ( rolling package: 30's Ford Coupe ) kit together . I am on a tight budget , so I would be looking for a VERY Basic build. I can do the engine / trans install and paint , but need to sub out the rest .
    Am I in the same investment area of say buying someone else's Project Car Build 25 K ?

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Boss Rods, I bought the '33/34 premium roller from N&N when I retired and started working on it using Speedway, Summit & others for parts sourcing, along with lots of trips to the local hardware store, metal shop, etc. A now long gone magazine, Street Rod Builder, had done a four part series titled "The Low Buckaroo Coupe" (or something like that) starting with the N&N premium roller, and targeting a completed car running in buffed out gel coat (no paint) for $35,000 using a new crate engine & tranny. When I was trying to figure out what to buy I visited with a fellow from Oklahoma that was driving a basic highboy '34, and he thought that a fellow could get one done for the range of $27,000 to $30,000 doing everything himself, using a junkyard powertrain without having to rebuild engine or tranny. I went overboard on the power train, which blew my budget, but I did essentially everything myself other than having the engine built. If you want to scan through it, my build thread was pretty complete - Followed Me Home, '33 Build
    Having all of the tools on hand, or friends who have them and are willing to let you share, is a key to shaving costs. Any time you pay someone else to take on a task you're now on their schedule, and at their mercy for the costs. Given your explanation of what you'd do and what you'd farm out I'd say you'd be hard pressed to get the roller package running for $30,000 but that's just my opinion, not knowing your detailed plan.
    Another tip, I looked at a LOT of options, and I decided that N&N gives the absolute best value package that you can buy. Others are cheaper, but you get less quality, and there may be some that claim better quality but you'll pay through the nose. I'd go back to N&N in a heartbeat.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    I had to search for the website, so here it is for the rest of you.....
    32s
    I'd be thinkin' of buying a donor car for the engine/trans so that I had all the pieces to make 'em work. Also, I have probably driven the last straight axle car that I ever want to, so there would have to be some kind of road-worthy IFS and rack & pinion steering involved......for instance...
    http://www.scottshotrods.com/about-our-ifs/

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 10-26-2015 at 11:42 AM.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #4
    DA34GUY's Avatar
    DA34GUY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32Roadster/always buildin sumthin
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    Been building 32/33/34's for over 45 years and have used N&N bodies for the past 12/14 builds. XLNT product and Duane is "The Man"
    I do all my own fabrication, body and paint. The only thing I outsource is the upholstery and glass.
    Your gonna be hard pressed to do it for 25K, as a dealer for all the necessary parts (read 20 to 30% off) I usually get in around 30 to do a coupe. Good luck in your venture. This 1 was built @ the N&N factory buy an ex employee and he had to bail out (needed $'s). All I had 2 do was paint and upholstery.
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    When I get to where I was goin, I forgot why I went there>

  5. #5
    lurker mick's Avatar
    lurker mick is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Don, just curious, the red 3-window is a N&N body, right? I noticed in your "Guts in the 3-winder" thread, post #17, that it appears that the door window frames are molded as part of the door panel and not removable. Is this how they do their doors?
    Not being critical , I thought it odd as they have such a good reputation for accuracy.

    The 3-window turned out very nice BTW.

    Mick

  6. #6
    DA34GUY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lurker mick View Post
    Don, just curious, the red 3-window is a N&N body, right? I noticed in your "Guts in the 3-winder" thread, post #17, that it appears that the door window frames are molded as part of the door panel and not removable. Is this how they do their doors?
    Not being critical , I thought it odd as they have such a good reputation for accuracy.

    The 3-window turned out very nice BTW.

    Mick
    Yep, part of the inner door, I like it and so do most trimmers.
    Makes the doors much more solid IMO, inner can't flex @ all that way.
    When I get to where I was goin, I forgot why I went there>

  7. #7
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by DA34GUY View Post
    Yep, part of the inner door, I like it and so do most trimmers.
    Makes the doors much more solid IMO, inner can't flex @ all that way.
    The '33/34 3 window has garnish moldings....
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  8. #8
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    You didn't say if you can weld... If you do, that's a big plus when fabricating brackets, etc. If you don't weld, it may behoove you to take a welding course somewhere and buy a small MIG welder. Yes, it's a bit of an investment, but you'll save the money back in short order compared to shelling out $50+ every time you need someone to stick something together.

    That's a great value for $13,200. If you do your own body and paint work, that can save you a pile of $$$. As for upholstery, get some nice seats from the junkyard and you can do the rest of the interior as money allows later. I drove my coupe for a year with the original upholstery on the (Hyundai) seats and a piece of Berber carpet (remnant from the carpet store) on the floor; no door panels and no headliner. Good luck.
    rspears and lamin8r like this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

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