Thread: Blowing Fuses

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Hey folks. It's been a while.
We recently started back on the Camaro.
Our drive around town was nice a few weeks ago.
But then --
Volt meter went way high, over 16.
The power windows & power mirrors quit working, and all the gauges. Headlights, blinkers, 4 ways, fan & radio worked.
Replaced the 10amp fuse, all was good.
I checked battery voltage not running
12.8
Checked it running at idle
11.7 to 12.5 fluctuations.
All good.
Cycled windows a few times, good.
I was satisfied. Then I left them down for the afternoon.
Rolled them up and popped it again.

What I found out -
It pops if I roll up the windows all the way to the stops.
Either window will cause it.

I can stop windows just shy of the stops and still have a weather tight seal.

Should I try to adjust the stops or am I looking at
motors // swithches?

Any tips GREATLY appreciated!!
Thank You!

I would pull both door panels and check the wiring to the switches. They have to be shorting out at the upper limit.

Yes.
The 87.

Originally Posted by t-top havoc

Volt meter went way high, over 16.
I checked battery voltage not running
12.8
Checked it running at idle
11.7 to 12.5 fluctuations.
All good.

Not Good. a proper charging rate is 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
I think you're hitting a couple problems at the same time. I'd say check your connections at the battery and the ground connections for the frame and body.

And then I'd say check the limit switches for the window motors.

Oh!
I ** thought ** anything around 12 was ok!

There is 1 strap, from the passenger rear head to the firewall. It's about 1/2 inch wide.
Guy at work suggested a full set of new straps.
Run the big one from block to frame.
Run a 1/2 inch strap from battery to body ( fender )
Replace the old strap from head to firewall.

Looks like a set of straps will be aquire Monday, regardless of present issue.

Alternator possibly too, or is that jumping ahead of the horse?

It's a 1 wire, the original, that was rebuilt like 10 years ago.

Thank You Denny!

A trip to my friends shop Monday will be on the
TO DO list for the tests. I don't feel like I can do it solo.
He has the quality stuff to do the tests.
I was using a $10 Equus and flying alone.
The bat is still under warranty, so that Ace will be played.
¡¡¡ SIGH !!!
I was hoping this would be simple.
I'll open the door panels & switches for a test too.

Thank You All!!

Will Do, Sir.

Thank You Much for the help!!

Originally Posted by t-top havoc

There is 1 strap, from the passenger rear head to the firewall. It's about 1/2 inch wide.
Guy at work suggested a full set of new straps.
Run the big one from block to frame.
Run a 1/2 inch strap from battery to body ( fender )
Replace the old strap from head to firewall.

Alternator possibly too, or is that jumping ahead of the horse?.

A single "strap"? Is that one of those braided wire deals? Those aren't one of my favorites.

Run the first cable from the ground right to the block, I like to go right to the alternator mount if I can. Then from the back of the block to the cab and also the frame. And make sure you clean all connections. Use sandpaper if needed, it has to be clean, you can apply spray paint after to help protect the connection.

Then you can begin testing the alternator / battery, but good connections are critical.

ps, you're friends at work think like I do! LOL..

I have not seen, but heard of folks using 4gauge cable as the ground from block to frame and bat to block.
Is that gauge OK for those grounds or is it overdoing?

Yes, Sir, it is a copper braid strap from the head to the firewall.

Originally Posted by t-top havoc

I have not seen, but heard of folks using 4gauge cable as the ground from block to frame and bat to block.
Is that gauge OK for those grounds or is it overdoing?

Yes, Sir, it is a copper braid strap from the head to the firewall.

The 4 gauge is good. And I also like Batt. Ground to block first. The braided piece should be fine at the back of the head to the cab. Just add a ground from the block to the frame and you should be golden.

Four gauge makes good grounds and positive battery cable as long as the run isn't too long. The longer the run the larger the gauge. I'm not a fan of the braided grounding straps as I've seen too many rusty ones which defeats their purpose.

If you can go back to a three wire alternator, you'd be better off. Basically, the three wire is sensing voltage from the wiring harness junction block, and therefore does a better job at regulating voltage. That's a pretty big deal for a street car with power accessories.

The windows blowing fuses sounds like you have identical problems in both doors. Or, it's presenting itself as such because of the circuit. You should have a handful of fuses ready to sacrifice while you troubleshoot. Another good idea would be a clamp on digital amp meter. I got one to troubleshoot the dodge AKA the steaming turd, as it was blowing its main fusible link. The digital meter showed that the circuit was simply under - fused.
My time is pretty valuable, and yanking an alternator takes only ten minutes, so to me it makes sense to throw the alternator in the back seat and have it tested at a car parts store the next time I'm in town. It eliminates guess work.
You can not over- do grounds. Too many is just fine.

firebird77clone
Yes, the reason I had gone 1 wire alt is because the plug & wires have been removed by a previous owner at some point.

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Well, the shop has been extremely busy, and I couldn't get in for a while. Thursday morning.

Thank You All for the tips & tidbits.

PS
I do have extra fuses for any that decide not to co - operate :-)