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12-04-2004 07:18 PM #1
OEM Parts
I wen't to Auto Zone today to see what parts they have for the 79 Z28 front end for my 48 and they said they have everything and gave me a long list to take home and look over to tell them what I want and they have the brakes and all that I need. Thing I need to know is if the OEM one piston caliper will stop my car good enough because the 48 is a pretty darn heavy car and I think (not positive one this) that the 79 Z28's are lighter than my car so doesn't need as much stopping power. Any info on this? I was also going to order all my bushing, tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, upper inner control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, stabalizer links, idler arm, inner shafts, etc and whatever they have. I am not sure if they carry ALL of this stuff but I am going to try and see if they do, if not I will probably just order from P-S-T.com and they their super front end kit for 460 bucks but I am hoping Auto Zone will have all that and it will be cheaper.
For the loaded pair of calipers (both sides) it's 90 bucks and like I said one piston calipers.
What do you guy's think on this? I would go with all high performance parts if I had the money but I am on a budget and thought that I might as well cut as many corners as I can but still have the parts be safe enough to not fail on me or anything of that sort. I can always upgrade later after it is on the road and finished (these things are never finished).
Thanks for any info.
Shawn-www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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12-04-2004 07:24 PM #2
Build it with OEM for now. You can always upgrade the brakes at a later date when you have the cash. Besides, I don't think your 48 is as heavy as a Camaro anyway.Duane S
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On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust
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12-04-2004 07:40 PM #3
Alright, I just don't wan't to go out and buy them and then find out that I should have gotten better brakes because they won't stop as well... What should I do about master cylinder and brake booster and proportioning valve? I looked on MP brakes and they don't have brake kits for 79's.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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12-04-2004 07:57 PM #4
You should measure that front clip to make shure it's square, being the person you bought the car from didn't do the work and you don't know who he bought it from, you don't know if it was installed square and properly. For the master, get the floor mount 1 of these http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp...qx/product.htm get a booster and prop valve from the same place.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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12-04-2004 08:10 PM #5
Matt.... the thing is squared. That was the FIRST thing I did was get a tape measure and measured corner to corner, etc. I kind of wish the frame wasn't in primer to see if there were any cracks because I saw some little dips or pits in the metal so scraped some primer off and looked at the pit marks and there was no rust since it was sandblasted but could tell it started to rust. No big deal and not major at all though. I will check that site out though Matt, thanks. I would rather have it on my firewall though but we'll see what other replies I get first.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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12-04-2004 08:29 PM #6
The only place you can have it is under the floor I belive, that's the stock location, it will also keep it away from your big block you want.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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12-04-2004 09:25 PM #7
Are you sure? Reason I am second doubting you (not saying your wrong or nothing) is that Southerner has been trying to help me and said that I should put it on the firewall because reaching it will be easier and I won't need that extra valve, etc since the master cylinder will be lower than the actual brakes. Where will the brake booster go then?www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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12-04-2004 09:41 PM #8
The booster would hook right up to the master under the floor. I looked at a 1947 Chevy's engine compartment just now on carnut.com and there was somthing that may have been a master cyl but looked diffrent. It had a Chevy Small block. Your easiest and best bet is to leave it under the floor, it will save you money because you would need to buy new pedal assemblies. You may need some kind of kit to convert it to a firewall master IF it is possible.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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12-04-2004 09:43 PM #9
Yeah maybe your right. Either way will be ezpensive because I will need the bracket to put it under the floor, I have no brake pedals, need new floors, everything. Once I figure out where to mount the master cylinder then I can get everything else and get everything all at once. I will check that site out again Matt and see what I can do. I may just do that then because it does seem much easier.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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12-05-2004 02:15 AM #10
If your going to have to do all the body work anyway FMX, it may be easier to mount it on the firewall. The older vehicles had large engine bays, you should be able to fit both motor and brakes. If they can do it with a camaro, you can do it with a 48. As for weight issues, I wouldnt worry. The camaro front brakes are generations newer than your cars factory drums. As such, they should provide a lot more stopping power. Under the car design master cylinders just raises questions. What if something hits it, what if the cylinder cracks, what if the reservoir line breaks, wha if... It will probably save you time and hassles to have it under the hood.Right engine, Wrong Wheels
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12-05-2004 10:48 AM #11
Originally posted by drg84
If your going to have to do all the body work anyway FMX, it may be easier to mount it on the firewall. The older vehicles had large engine bays, you should be able to fit both motor and brakes. If they can do it with a camaro, you can do it with a 48. As for weight issues, I wouldnt worry. The camaro front brakes are generations newer than your cars factory drums. As such, they should provide a lot more stopping power. Under the car design master cylinders just raises questions. What if something hits it, what if the cylinder cracks, what if the reservoir line breaks, wha if... It will probably save you time and hassles to have it under the hood.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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12-05-2004 08:11 PM #12
Now you guy's got me thinking. I have had a lot of people telling me both ways... Lets do a new thread and a poll at that! heh. I wan't to see what the rest have to say. Thanks though guys, and still feel free to give more info on other OEM parts I should try using to save money and other places to find brake boosters, master cylinder, proportioning valves, etc.
Thanks again.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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12-05-2004 08:19 PM #13
Go to advanced auto or Autozone, tell them what you need and they should be able to get or have what you need, they stock aftermarket parts unlike other auto parts stores like NAPA or Carquest or parts plus.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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