Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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So, did you prime and block the two cars and pickup sitting across the parking lot? Or at least prime?

I remember buffing the primer dust off of my Vette a few years ago when I painted my son's car - and I had it parked 75' from the garage.

I'll have to go out and look, it was dark last night and to be honest, I never gave that a thought. I don't care about mine, but Dan's Honda was there too. I do hope some got onto my Jeeps rusty tailgate.....it would be an improvement.

Luckily, it was dead calm last night....no wind at all, and no bugs either for some reason.




Don

So......you going to use the same black as the frame or are you open to suggestions?

Well, I've pretty much settled on satin black, but sure, what are your thoughts??

Don

I thought your intention was to go gloss so was going to suggest PPG DCC single stage. User friendly, lays down nice, and is a good, clear black, neither muddy nor with green or grey tones, and can be cleared if desired. Buffs nice. A black lover's black. But if you're going satin........................never mind!

I might check that out bob, im not satisfied with the current paint outcome on the merc, so ive been thinking of respraying it with a gloss black, then do some traditional flames, kinda been overdone, but still good looking.

A lot depends on how straight I am able to get the body prior to paint. Since it is the typical $ 500 fiberglass body, it is far from perfect.........a few waves, etc. I know I could spend a lot of time and get it pretty good, but I realize my limitations........I'm no body man for sure, and also no booth. Gloss black would look nice, but also shows every little flaw. I've seen a whole bunch of cars that should never have been painted black over the years.

Two things that are being considered now are the satin black Dupont sells, already mixed, and maybe just shooting basecoat, without the gloss topcoat. The second option would give me the choice of shooting flattened clear over it, or, if the body should come out real straight, shooting gloss clear on at that time.

I'll have a better idea once I finish all the prep work. That is a good suggestion Bob, and I'll certainly keep it in mind. Thanks.

Don


Don

I am planning on a satin black as well, anxious to see what you decide to do...

How about a black and orange combo in the socal style...

That's one of the things we have kicked around. What we decided last night was to get it in paint and see how we like it plain. If it still needs something else we'll do something like that.

I like that little roadster BTW, pretty sharp.

Don

I'm still waiting for the picture of the kitchen chair attached to the frame and you taking it around the block.
Brad

Don, if you do it gloss black with orange scallops then that will throw any imperfections off and hard to notice. Just use the longest block you can and block away at different angles. Use the primer and guide coat and the guide coat should help with small waves and such.

Brad, it wouldn't be the first time I have taken a test drive sitting on a box or other "non-car-related" item. If I wasn't worried about falling off and being run over by the slick, I probably would be doing it now.

FMX, You're probably right. I spent last night blocking the first primer job with 220, and got most of it pretty smooth. The three heavy coats of surfacing primer took care of lots of pinholes and small imperfections, and today I picked up some red spot putty to do the deeper ones.

I had a talk with the lady at the paint store. One product we are considering is Dupont Hot Hues "Hot Rod Black." Another option is base coat clear coat black, using a matte clear . I'll have a better handle on it later in the week, as the body gets more prepped.

I also have almost a gallon of single stage black, and some flattener, but the problem with it is if you shoot a nice wet coat it wipes out the flat look, and ends up shiny. I just always like to lay the last coat on really wet, out of habit I guess.

In the meantime I will just keep on blocking away, then shoot a couple more coats of primer one more time.

Don

PPG makes a product in quarts called "Flexed N Flat". You have to use a lot of it but you add it into the clear (of course). Works but if you ever need to touch up a spot it's HARD to match the flatness. And like I said, you have to use a LOT of it to get flat, or there is eggshell and then semi gloss. Gotta be careful using it or else it will look like little cracks in it or if you ever look at a desert ground or such where it hasn't rained in a long time it has little squares all over with cracks, it looks like that. If you decide to go with gloss black then check out SPI basecoat black or their single stage.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Barry is the owner there and VERY helpful when it comes to needing it and customer service is top notch. Maybe you already know of it, I know that some members here know of it and are on their forums. Hell, ask the question over there, they will know of a lot of different brands to use that are good and actually work well.

Don, as nice as that car is, it deserves a high gloss finish. Flat and satin black finishes are done to death in the rat-rod crowd and your roadster is anything but a rat. Whatever color you put on it, it should SHINE!

Thanks, but a body has to be really right to be gloss black, and I am far from a bodyman. I HATE bodywork. Like I mentioned earlier, we have all seen cars that should never have been painted black, so a satin would probably be my best choice for now. With no booth it is tough to get a good job.

I am going to make the body quickly removable, using wiring plugins, etc, so if I decide later on to have someone paint it gloss it wouldn't be too much trouble to pull it off. For now, I just want to get it on the road. Tampa and Daytona are rapidly approaching.

A $ 500 fiberglass body is tough to get straight enough for black unless you are good at body work, which I am not.

Don