Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Thanks Mike. I figure now that I've removed all that weight from those 14 holes, I might be able to do wheelies now.


Don

Yeah and it won't bottom out with the babe in it

Don, I just joined tonight and will keep an eye on you, so "get ur done".

Today I worked on the steering setup on the T. I decided to use the reversed Corvair box I was saving for my other T bucket, but to mount it in the traditional position in front of the firewall, rather than through the floor like most T buckets have them. It took me two sets of mounts to get the angle right, but I think I finally hit it. I plan to order the steering shaft, u joint, and drag link from Speedway this week, so pretty soon the car will not only roll around, but it will steer too.


I was a little disappointed this week to find out the stick transmission setup I wanted to use just is not going to work. I put a boat seat down in the cockpit and tried out the fit for the first time, and came to the realization there is just no room for 3 pedals and my feet. It would be a very awkward driving position, and maybe not too safe either, so I scrapped the idea and am going to install a turbo 350 like everybody else in the world. I guess there is a reason this is the way most people go. I am not sure if I will do the junkyard route, and look for one that seems to be good, or if I will just win another one on Ebay from Jackson Racing. I've bought two transmissions from them so far, and have been very pleased, so I may go that route.

Finally, I started mocking up the headlight assembly I want to use. I like using a Model A or '32 headlight bar on my rods, and modifying it to mount to the frame horns. This setup is much more stable than the usual aluminum mounts, and looks pretty traditional also. I am not sure if I will use the '27 Chevy headlights I am using in the pictures below, but I do kind of like the large size of them. I think they will fit the look I am seeking with the rest of the car. I will mount them slightly higher than in the picture, but at least this will kind of show what the finished product will look like.

I actually got a lot of work done on the car this week while the forum was down, but man did I miss it. Really glad it is back up and running.


Don

I like the "big" headlights.

Thanks Squire, so do I. I guess I'll put some halogen conversions in them.


I'm kinda bummed about not being able to use the stick setup, it would have been pretty cool. But I tend to drive my cars a lot (like every day) and my knees would have been in my face. At least with the automatic I can sort of stretch out a little more.


Don

Don, a friend of mine has had a 331 hemi t-bucket for over 40 years and his auto shift lever is neat. Don't recall he ever said what it came off of but it is just a small handle sticking though the top of the door near the windshield. It's on the flat part of the door and have to be looking to even see it. It's a steel body so I am not sure the top of your door is as wide. Makes for a clean interior.

Sounds like he is running some torque-flite tranny with a cable shifter setup. That would be neat and out of the way. I have a couple of early Ford shifters, and will probably end up modifying one of them to shift it, or maybe go to a Gennie shifter. My kid keeps telling me to just buy a Gennie and get it over with, but I like to build things, and a shifter shouldn't be too hard. All I have to do is figure out some detents so that it stays in a gear without vibrating out. Some springs and notches should do that, I would think.

Wish I had a hemi like your buddy. They are THE engine in my opinion, but are getting a little too pricey for my blood. Plus, I think they cost quite a bit more to build than other engines.

Don

Some more nice work Don.

"......Wish I had a hemi like your buddy. They are THE engine in my opinion, but are getting a little too pricey for my blood. Plus, I think they cost quite a bit more to build than other engines...."

Your right aobut the cost your "project 3K" would consist of an engine only to stay in the budget

Did I mention I got the Hemi for the Plymouth torn down today

Is your back aching from lifting all of those Hemi pieces? The heads alone have to weigh 150 lbs each. What is the entire engine, like 700 lbs?

I really do like the early hemis. To me, nothing is cooler than to look in a rod and seeing those massive valve covers staring back at you. I know the new hemis are great and all, but the first series just have a certain mistique about them, and I include all of them from the first ones all the way up to the 426's in that group.

Mike, I bet you find parts both new and used are a little expensive though.


Don

I picked the Hemi's I have up over ten years ago before they REALLY started to get popular (expensive) again, but even so they were kind of pricey.

The 3 I have (2 331's and 354) were all acquired through horse trading so I didn't get hurt too bad on the initial acquisition. Looks Like I got really lucky on the 354 I'm going to refeshen up for the 57 (it has fairly low mileage since it was rebuilt), it's been bored .040 (it's now a 361) and the rods already resized. It goes to the macine shop tomorrow and I'll post an update when it comes back and I start building it.

Yeah as far as parts, it's kind of an expensive build

Gasket set $150.

Rod Bearings $110

Main Bearings $110

Cam (only) $200

Waterpump/
oilfilter conversions $100

Pushrods (adjustable) $130

Valve Covers $400


The rest of the parts needed are on par with what it would normally cost to build most other V8s.

I got lucky on the intakes I have and have less than $100 in each (however they would currently go for $600-1000 each on E Bay).

Transmisssion adaptors normally run around $500, but fortunatly I can build my own 4 speed conversions for about $100.

But when all is said and done you just can't beat the visual impact.......... (this is the one that's torn down for the 57 right now)

There are two engines that really look great dressed out in my opinion. One is a hemi, like yours, and a fully dressed flathead is the other.

I envy for that one in the picture.


Don

don, you are not posting so you better be working.

Actually, I was. I stopped tonight after work and just got in. Didn't really get anything noteworthy done, but I was working on the cowl rollbar I am going to build into the inside of the firewall to support the steering column.

I ordered some steering parts from Speedway today (u joint, shaft, support bearing and removable steering wheel hub) and those should be in next week, Monday or Tuesday.

Thanks squire for keeping me moving though.

Don

Got an early start today and just got in a little while ago. These 10 hour days really tire me out, but I am seeing some progress on the T.

Today I continued working on the roll bar that is going to be shaped like the inside of the firewall and fit right up against it. I am going to leave it exposed on the interior of the car to give the car somewhat of a competition look.

The reason for the cowl roll bar is simply to support the entire length of the steering column. Most T buckets route the steering box under the floor, so there is no strain on the firewall. In mine I am putting the steering box in front of the firewall, so the dash has to be strong enough to hold the weight of the column and any strain I put on it when steering the car. Fiberglass bodies have very little strength by themselves, and even wooding them helps only a little bit. Certainly not enough to mount a steering column to. So the roll bar will hold the bottom of the steering column (I am going to mount a bearing there on a steel plate welded to the roll bar) and I am going to weld some support arms that go from the roll bar to a piece of 1 x 1 square tubing run the entire width of the dash and fastened to the dash, Then the rear column mount will have a strong place to mount.

I was going to get out the tubing bender and form the roll bar, but I found one of my Sons failed pieces in the scrap bin, and it was almost perfect. I just had to narrow it a little and put one longer leg on it. I joined the two pieces of tubing together by slipping a smaller piece inside of each cut end and rosette welding it in place ( I learned that term from Techinspector 1) Then I fully welded the tubes together into one piece. I also cut some plates that I will weld to the top of the frame and tap for threads. Then the roll bar will bolt to these plates and be removable with the body.

Tomorrow I plan to go to Home Depot and pick up a piece of plywood to start glassing in the firewall so I can then mount the roll bar to it. My plan is for the roll bar to become an integral part of the body when I am done, and unbolt just as the body does.

Here are some pictures of the way I welded up the rollbar, and also the mocked up roll bar on the frame.

Thanks for looking,


Don