Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Ok thank you Don, I completely understand this now. How about using Fuzor instead of glass matt? We use Fuzor at the shop all the time and man that stuff is STRONG! I know a lot of people are using it now to weld panels together (or fuzor them together instead of weld)... Either way, I now know exactly what your saying. What size plywood should I use if I do this? Only thing I would worry about is rotting of the wood later but then again it won't be out in the rain much with no top. lol

Never heard of fuzor. Problem is, plywood is tough to get anything but resin and glass to stick to, so I don't know if this product is compatable.

Well, some people use marine grade plywood. I think Brian mentioned he did that. I just use exterior grade plywood, but the key is to seal the EDGES of the plywood before you put it down. Moisture gets into plywood through the cut edges and starts the rotting.delaminating process. If you paint a couple of good coats of resin on the edges, that seals them. Plus, when you get done tabbing the body to the plywood, you run a layer or two of mat over the entire top and bottom of the plywood, as a skin. Water can't get in that way. Every time you drill a hole in the plywood to mount something, use some marine caulk and that will waterproof it even more.

It's just like building a boat, really. My glassman at work is going to hook me up with some new cloth he says is super strong, and I am anxious to try it on the tunnel and trans hump.

Don

Well, sounds good Don. I am going to keep looking in this thing then. Thanks a lot for the info!

Don, there's already detents in the trans,if you put your shifter on you actual transmission,I'm sure you'll feel them in the stick.If you want more,you might be able to use the same detent assy on the shifter,given the shift levers are the same lengths. just a thought, Hank

Thanks for that info Hank. I kinda thought that was the case, but with the long shift lever I'm using I was afraid the weight might vibrate it into another gear. When I get the new trans in (should be this week) I will be able to hook up the lever and see how it feels. I'm hoping you are right.


Don

Hey Don, the car looks great. I must admit this thread burned my butt at first. I recently picked up a finished T Bucket For a pretty decent price, I figured I could drive it the rest of the year and make my changes this winter. After finding the steering coupler had never been tightened and the clevises tourqed down so tight the suspension would not move. I decided to go through the whole car now. So as i'm tearing into my great deal I find your thread, not happy!! It took about 5 minutes to figure out this is the best thing that could happen. My vision for mine is very close to yours.
I have alway's been a muscle car guy and this is my first try with a street rod so you can imagine how much this help's, so please don't lose interest.

I do have a couple of questions, are your slicks 820x15 or 1000x15, and other than using a radius rod setup like yours is there any way to get the rear that low?

Thanks Ron

That's a good way to do it. I think I have a system worked out with a spring loaded ball bearing the rides on the larger of the 2 plates I made to support the handle. I made it bigger to give me more surface area. I thought if I drilled little depressions in the exact spots where the trans detents are, it would suppliment the holding power. I figure the spring loaded ball would ride along the plate and drop into the little depression.

We'll see how it feels when the real trans shows up.

Thanks Denny,

Don

Don---The detents in the transmission are not strong enough to hold the gearshift in place. The detents in the tranny will also let you shift directly from drive into reverse or park at any speed. You need to build in detents and lockouts into your shifter mechanism.---Brian

I'm afraid you are right. Plus, if it drops into another gear while underway it probably would not be too cool.


Don

don great work. looks good . on the glass work i use fiber gel made by swiss this works great and is very easy to work with or the west system both work good with wood to glass and what i like to do is make a backer from thin aluminum like for a trans tunnel screw it to the wood and lay up the glass this will let you get form with the glass and work on the aluminum keeps thing from moving or dripping and when done pop it off. if the aluminum is not sanded it will come off and you get a nice job with a good form .if this helps any one ?

Pat: You are right about West System. It is the premier epoxy resin, as are all of the products they make. Not inexpensive, but really high quality and it holds very well.

I plan to do the aluminum routine over the tunnel, as you mentioned. It holds it's shape better than cardboard.


Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Pat: You are right about West System. It is the premier epoxy resin, as are all of the products they make. Not inexpensive, but really high quality and it holds very well.

I plan to do the aluminum routine over the tunnel, as you mentioned. It holds it's shape better than cardboard.


Don

yes and it is made in bay city mich. my friend builds air planes and boats with it

FMX,
Was just reading Don's updates and saw your posting and have a suggestion. Get the fordor, remove the rear doors and move them foward and add pickup bed (you wanted pick-up) and you have an extended cab pick-up and a different look.
Don, kep us posted about the new products (name, manuf. etc.), as I am going to add the windshield lip/new cowl to my '32 so I can use a chopped stock type windshield.
Keep up the good work.
Jim
P.S. Keep a pen or pencil in your hand and if you fall asleep it falls out and wakes you up!

Originally Posted by Ron B.

Hey Don, the car looks great. I must admit this thread burned my butt at first. I recently picked up a finished T Bucket For a pretty decent price, I figured I could drive it the rest of the year and make my changes this winter. After finding the steering coupler had never been tightened and the clevises tourqed down so tight the suspension would not move. I decided to go through the whole car now. So as i'm tearing into my great deal I find your thread, not happy!! It took about 5 minutes to figure out this is the best thing that could happen. My vision for mine is very close to yours.
I have alway's been a muscle car guy and this is my first try with a street rod so you can imagine how much this help's, so please don't lose interest.

I do have a couple of questions, are your slicks 820x15 or 1000x15, and other than using a radius rod setup like yours is there any way to get the rear that low?

Thanks Ron

Ron: Whew!! When I read the first part of your post, I thought you were mad at me. Glad to see I don't have to leave town.

Thanks for the nice words. The tires are 10:00 X 15 Firestones from Coker.

You are so wise to nut and bolt the whole car you just bought. Buying someone elses unfinished or even finished rod is a great way to get a deal, but you have to check it all out to make sure there is no Mickey Mouse stuff going on. Start right at the frame and suspension, and go over it with a fine tooth comb, and if you see something suspicious, don't even think about it, just fix it.

Setting a rod this low created some problems with rear suspension, and the fact the rear axle is right against the body made it even worse. I pondered this one for a while, and couldn't come up with a better solution, mainly because I didn't want the radius rods pointing down to the ground in the front. I think it will be ok though.

On my '39 Dodge we used a three bar setup from Suicide Doors, and it really makes a nice compact setup, and the Dodge is set low also. I don't have a picture of it here at work in this computer, so I will post a shot tonight for you. It makes for a very clean, good riding setup.

Thanks again for the nice words, it's nice to learn that at least one member isn't bored with the posts I have been doing on this car.


Don

Old Hippie, great idea but I doubt I am getting this thing now. The owner seems a little fishy to me and it is one of those things where you may have some problems so I am going to steer away and wait. Which really that is ok, it gives me time to sell one or two of my projects I have now and save up. Heck I may find me a truck later this year so waiting is not always bad. For now I will research and be 10 steps ahead when I get to that point.