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Itoldyouso 
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10-02-2006 07:51 PM #1
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- Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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That piece will be welded to the frame, and the bolt that passes through it will also go through the pedal so it pivots on that bolt. I will weld a 3/8 inch thick piece of plate to the frame and tap it for 5/8 inch threads so the pivot bolt will thread into that plate.
The mocked up pedal assembly looks like this.
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10-02-2006 08:40 PM #2
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Ply Valiant, 83 El Camino
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Don the diagrams just right, there USEABLE which is the reason you generated them in the first place. Down the road if you ever have to refer to them they are a invaluable.
I like Denny, I really am enjoying following along with your build.
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10-02-2006 08:58 PM #3
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Thanks Mike. By the way, I printed out your tripower carb thread today at work, and I didn't realize it but I tied up our printer for a while. People kept asking "what is this hot rod club stuff that keeps coming out of the printer." A few customers had to wait to get their receipts, but this hot rod stuff has to come first, you know.
Don
PS: Isn't it amazing how many wires there are in a car? This one is just a bare bones hot rod. Can you imagine it with air conditioning, stereo, electric windows, wipers, etc.???Last edited by Itoldyouso; 10-02-2006 at 09:00 PM.
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10-02-2006 09:10 PM #4
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".....PS: Isn't it amazing how many wires there are in a car? This one is just a bare bones hot rod. Can you imagine it with air conditioning, stereo, electric windows, wipers, etc.???......"
With the Plymouth add to that list.....cruise control, dome, trunk and under hood lighting, dual electric fuel pumps, reverb, illuminated ashtray and lighter, backup lights, heater and a bunch I know I'm forgetting.
It's a good thing I enjoy doing wiring.
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10-03-2006 04:51 AM #5
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 57 chevy 2 dr wagon
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REVERB I remember them from the 60s you'd hit a bump or R/R tracks and it would make a noise like your fenders feel off.
I think I still have 2 of them out in the shed.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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10-03-2006 05:43 AM #6
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Originally Posted by cffisher
REVERB I remember them from the 60s you'd hit a bump or R/R tracks and it would make a noise like your fenders feel off.
I think I still have 2 of them out in the shed.
Yeah, we were really cool if we had a reverb. Combined with some red or blue truck clearance lights under the dash and we were ready for the back row at the drive in.
I had one of the first 4 track tape players to come out, and then I was really ready to rock.
Don
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10-03-2006 07:19 AM #7
CHR Member/Contributor
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 98 Dodge SST-540 Blown Hemi
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Although I never owned one I remember reverb units in cars. I had one on a old guitar amp though.
It was funny when you banged on the top of it, boyinyinyinying,, boyinyinyinying,, boyinyinyinying
One of my earliest recollections as a kid in the early 60's was a 45 record player my brother had in his 56 Chevy.
Do any of our seasoned vetrans remember these?Last edited by Supa Roosta; 10-03-2006 at 07:24 AM.
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10-03-2006 07:36 AM #8
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Yep, forgot about the record players. Never owned one, but remember seeing them in all the ads of the day.
Don
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10-03-2006 09:34 AM #9
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- Car Year, Make, Model: '68 Biscayne
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Don,
Just finished the read. Great info thanks for all of the effort. Got a question.
Why wood floors? Why not use sheet metal?
Thanks,
Zachairah
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10-03-2006 09:54 AM #10
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Plywood is the traditional way to do a fiberglass body, especially on T buckets that come with no floor. Steel wouldn't bond well because of the different expansion, contraction rates between it and the fiberglass. Wood is very similar to fiberglass in that respect.
Even boats until recently used wood for stringers and transoms (foam core and other hi tech products are now becoming popular, but only in recent years) Plywood is cheap, easily worked by the home hobbiest, and bonds well.
The secret to keeping it from delaminating or rotting is to totally encapsulate it in resin, especially the ends, as this is where moisture can enter most easily. Also, the thickness of the wood in the floor and sides is where the body gets it's strength. Without the wood it is very flimsy and weak.
Thank you for the nice words and for reading the thread.
Don
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10-03-2006 12:05 PM #11
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phonograph yes had one with the reverb, and the lights under the dash and under the fenderwells. Still have an 8 track in the shop. I had a kid over helping me clean out the shop one day and he said "What kind on player is that,I never seen anything like it"? Well I don't understand Plams or IPODS????either so I guess that made us even
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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10-03-2006 12:12 PM #12
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Ford F100 w/390,
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Yeap, Charlie, and to really look cool, we painted the inner fenderwells white so the light would really reflect. And now I find myself wondering about the youngsters and their neon lights. Funny how I could forget the old stuff we used to do. Originally Posted by cffisher
Duane S
____________________________________
On a quiet night you can hear a Chevy rust
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10-03-2006 12:51 PM #13
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Lights under the fenderwells, I had totally forgotten about that too. Used truck clearance lights (like 29 cents each back then). Just knew we were cool when we turned those babies on. How could the girls resist something so cool????
Remember scavenger pipes?? I put two on my one car, and it only had a single exhaust. The one turned blue and the unused one looked like new, so after a while I switched them around so the new one discolored too.
Friend of mine wanted to rake his '50 Ford, so he mounted the rear springs on top of the axle. The perches were on the bottom of the axle, so he simply flipped the entire axle housing over. He put it so the right tire was now the left tire and visa versa. He bolted it all up, lowered the car down, and man did it have a nasty rake.
When he put the car in reverse to back out of the driveway the car went forward, when he put it in forward it went backwards. Found out he had 3 speeds in reverse, and one in forward.
He never took into account that when you flip the rear end over, you reverse the direction of travel. I remember laying on the lawn laughing my butt off on that one.
Yeah, we were really cool back then.
Don
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10-03-2006 05:54 PM #14
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Wow, what nostalgia. I had a copper colored '60 Pontiac Catalina 2-dr with spring spacers in the rear. Had the wheelwells and the rear end painted white and scavenger pipes underneath. White wheels with blackwall tires and dogdish hubcaps. That was 1969 and I was a Junior in college. I always wanted a reverb, but never had the spare bucks to buy one. I'd love to have that Pontiac now...Jim
Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!
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10-04-2006 08:50 PM #15
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Tonight I went to the shop after work, and think I have wrapped up how the pedal and master cylinder assemblies will mount to the frame, and where exactly they will go. What I got done wasn't a monumental amount, but it finishes one of the tasks that has been dragging the project down time-wise.
You know, I think anyone who has built a car or fixed one up over a long period of time will say that there are peaks and valleys to the process. Sometimes it seems you make huge strides, and sometimes the work just drags on and on. I am sort of at that draggy stage right now, because all of the tasks I am doing are time consuming yet mundane little jobs that don't seem to give any serious progress to the build, and yet they have to be done to get it running.
When you are bolting on wheels and it is starting to look like a car, things seem to move ahead very quickly, but when you start doing things like building the master cylinder mounts and chores like that, it is hard to see any real motion in the building process. Some nights I have to drag myself to the shop after work because the things I am doing right now aren't the fun things. However, I did get this pedal thing nailed down tonight, and once I get it welded to the frame I will be able to move onto finishing up the steering box mounting.
Here are a couple of pictures of the final assembly I came up with. The pedal mount has a top plate welded to it, and this whole assembly will be welded solidly to the frame. The top section is tapped for a 3/8 bolt, and this is going to be one of my body mounting locations. I will make up 3 more just like it so the body can bolt down to these pads. I didn't have to drop the master cylinder as far below the frame as I thought, it is only about 1/2 inch below the bottom of the frame. I'm pretty happy about that, as I didn't want too much sticking below the frame, which might catch on something as I drive down the road.
I dummied the pedal assembly up on a scrap piece of 2 x 3 frame tubing to illustrate how it will weld to the real frame.
Thanks for looking,
Don
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