Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Don nice frame work . How are the durability of those rice cakes. My frame has very little pitting and those and a little sandblast may be my option. I hate blasting when the grit gets in tight creveces in clothes like fiberglass LOL.

Thanks Bobby. The rice cakes held up pretty well, I used about 4 to do the entire frame. The ones that go on the regular 4 inch angle grinder were the cat's meow, they really cut the surface down nicely, and left it pretty smooth. I still have to go over it at least one more time to get it nicer, but it is not bad now. One thing I found out was the rice cakes come apart as you are using them, pelting your body with chucks of plastic. I am wearing some nicks and scratches,so I guess shorts are not the hot setup to wear when doing this job. However, it was 94 in the shop Saturday, so I wasn't about to put on too much.

BTW, I made a major change in the color scheme. I was going to do the frame, body, grille and engine/transmission in that Fusion Orange, but I have changed my mind. I saw a '34 Ford in a magazine I was reading while soaking my sore muscles in the tub, and it changed my mind.

The new colors are going to be Fusion Orange engine, transmission, rear and front axle assemblies, and wheels,with a semi-gloss black body, frame, and grille shell. I can then do the interior in all black, and do some of the suspension pieces in gloss black to accent.

I had been wrestling with what to do about the interior being off white and the steering wheel being the only black thing in there, so this new color scheme will solve that problem. Now the windshield frame can be gloss black too, which I think will be much better than the silver or off white I was planning on.

It will also save me tons of body work to get the body flawless for that Orange color. It seems to magnify every little flaw, and the semi gloss black will be more forgiving in that regard.

And they say women can never make up their minds.


Don

Thanks for the info i'm going to try them out . The black will bring the fusion orange out real well . Light dark scheme works well. That will give it a nice pop and some good eye candy for sure . I started wearing sun glasses looking at the engine and trans LOL it looks great .

Just wanted to say thanks for such a great thread! Biggest reason for me to join this group of gearheads!

By the way, great idea to contrast the drivetrain color with black!

Thanks again and I'm looking forward to perusing these pages!

Thanks Bobby and Eric, and welcome Eric to the forum. Nice to have another Florida guy on here. We tried to overthrow the forum a while back, but those guys from Washington State are nobody to fool around with.

I took the past couple of days off from the T. Had to help my Son Don move Monday, and today I'm recouperating. If there is one job in the world I hate, it is moving, but at least he's all settled and tomorrow I can get back to some sanding on the frame.

I think the colors I mentioned will be my final choice, and even though satin black is sort of overdone, I think the Orange/Gold will offset that somewhat. As soon as I start shooting I'll know for sure.



Don

Eric welcome in like the EL friend has a 69 also

Thanks gents, I appreciate the warm welcome.

Don
I figured I 'd come back and your car would be done. I'm actualy driving mine every chance I get. The people in town know when I'm around they say I built a real "Window rattler" I just love driving it.

Are you setting off everybody's car alarm? You kids and your loud pipes. Do I remember you saying you were going to Florida for a little trip?

No, my rod isn't running, but I am getting slightly closer. I have been sort of pooped since all the weekend work Dan and I did on it, and then Monday helping my other Son move put the icing on the cake. I have been taking lots of naps the past few days.

I did get over to the shop tonight (I've started going later in the day to avoid the heat of the midafternoon) and I got the battery all mounted. That little square box I built for the battery needed two studs made for the bottom to bolt it to the frame, and an L bracket to bolt the top to the kickup. I got that done and also made the hold down strap and a little lip out of angle iron to keep the battery from ever sliding out of the holder from bumps in the road.

I didn't take the camera because the stuff I am doing now is sort of boring stuff, like tomorrow I am going to do more grinding and smoothing on the frame so I can get some color on it. That's about where I am at Charlie.

Welcome back.

Don

Don battery hold down is something i've been wondering . Thing is under the floor and most is missing . I have thought of adapting but haven't seen a picture in my head yet .

Oh and welcome back Cff .

Don'
Went to Nebraska. There is a body shop about 1 mi. from the boys house all he does is old cars and he has a LOT full. If I get time I'll post some pictures he has a 49 chevy 2 dr panel wagon there that is complete and only needs minor work on the floor. $2900. A few chevy p/u cabs 36/37/38 $2 to 300. Just a great colection of early iron. Seems about every body shop out there has a seletion of them. Sorry I didn't bring the trailer with.

Hey Don, not to steal your thread, but I was wondering if your son bought the TP wiring harness for his project. My T came wired with one and i'm having problems tracking down some problem's as the previous owner did not keep the wiring diagram.

I am close to just ordering a new harness but the car is so close to being able to drive I really don't want to go backward's at this point, so if any one out there would happen to have a diagram for the TP harness it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank's for the use of your thread Don, I just know this is THE place for T bucket information.

Ron

Bobby: Probably the easiest thing is to just build a new box out of something like 1 x 1 or 1.25 x 1.25 angle iron, and make a square base out of it, brace it , and weld it under the floor to the frame. Or, they sell drop in boxes that you just cut a hole in the floor and drop it in, and bolt it on. If you are sharing space with the battery, don't use a lead acid (wet cell) battery. They fume when charging, and those are not good for you in an unventilated cockpit. A drycell battery like an Optima or Oddesey are good for that purpose.

Charlie: That's right, Nebraska, now I remember. Everything I have heard is what you are describing. Old tin all over the place. If I lived there I would be in hog heaven. Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Ron: No hijack at all, we chew the fat about everything on here. No, he didn't get the TP one, I think he bought a Painless. It is still sitting in the box, and I remember seeing it on his shelves. What is going on with yours? maybe we can figure it out. I think you can go on TP website and download portions of their build book. Dan downloaded the frame section when we built Dons frame and it cost like $ 2.50 to do that.

But lets hear what is going on, and maybe we can figure it out for you.

Don

Don,
Do you or anyone where the spring goes on the radiator mount? Does it go on top or under crossmember?
A thought on finishes, I used a "hammertone" on my engine and trans. and I was thinking a black Hammertone on the suspension or select pieces might look kool.
Thanks for the neat thread.
Jim

Jim: MY UNDERSTANDING of how the spring goes is that you put the rubber pads down first, then put the radiator on top of those, then slip the bolt through the spring and put the spring on top of the radiator mount going down through the mount and rubber pad. Sort of like the spring sits up there and acts like a stress reliever. The spring lets it flex up and down, I think.

Now, that could be all wrong, as I have never used one, so one of our more knowledgable model A/ '32 guys on here will know for sure. I'm interested in knowing the answer too.

Don

PS: Yeah, I agree on the hammertone. I am sort of going to do that with the flattened paint on the frame, I am going to back away a little with the spray gun on the last coat and give it a less smooth, more textured finish.