Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Dave: As for budget, I honestly don't know, I lost track through my November, December buying spree. Just never kept track. I would guess I am somewhere between $ 8-$10,000 total outlay, and probably closer to the $ 8,000. I could go back and add up the big stuff, but there have been lots and lots of $ 50 and $100 purchases for small stuff like pieces of steel, grinding discs, thinner, bolts, etc, etc.

I am not good at watching my money, and it all got jumbled together when Christmas came and I was spending money on my Kids and the rest of the family. I know it sounds lame, but I am terrible at accounting. I may go back when it is all done and try to add up as much as I can remember. Safe to say, I didn't hit the $3,000.

As for the primer, I am shooting Nasons primer/surfacer. I know it isn't the premium paint choice, but I am comfortable with it and get pretty good results, even though I am far from a pro painter. The last time I shot the primer on the tranny it was not flowing well, which is why I had to sand and redo it. I had the same trouble when I painted my Jeep truck about 5 years ago, and the guy at the paint store loaned me his "primer gun" that had a large orifice, and it did the trick. I just figured that is what is happening here now, plus being in Florida's high heat and humidity complicates things. The primer seems to go on like sandpaper, dry when it hits the surface.

That is my logic anyway, but maybe there is something else going on. I just didn't want to have the same problem on the frame, that would be a tough one to have to redo.

Don

PS: Just reread you post, maybe she said something other that # 1. Whatever it was, it was a bigger opening than my gun.

Well hope i did my studying also Don been a long time since i did a big job . But from reading here and in books and places a 1.6 to a 1.8 is good for primers new and hvlp is fantastic tech .

Dave i hope im close because i will be getting a HP (purple) gun to shot the A and the Stang . They should give at least 2 good jobs before they wear out . I have some older model Binks, De vilbis , and a old Sharp 975 pi great for base but bad on clear.

What's the old saying? Some days you get the bear, and some days the bear gets you. Guess who won today??

Day started off great, got the frame ground and sanded one more time, Ospho'd the underside of the crossmember, and started detailing the little/ tight areas that you can't reach with a big disc grinder. Thought I noticed that my 2 month old air compressor was sounding a little noisier than usual, so I went to check on it and found a puddle of oil coming from the box we had build over it.

Long story short, the darned thing dumped all the oil in it's crankcase all over the floor and compressor. Looks like the rear seal near the pulley went, and it flung oil all over the place. Gonna have to call Eaton tomorrow and see what they say. They have always been super to deal with, so I am not anticipating any problems getting another unit, but the problem is time. I am sitting with a bare metal frame with zero rust on it now, but in Florida's 90 percent humidity, that will not last long.

I have to get some primer on it quick, and on the way home I remembered my Son Don has a small compressor that he is storing with some other stuff at the shop while he is moving, so at least I can shoot some primer on it one evening this week. Talk about bad luck, this couldn't have happened at a worse time, and will set me back a little unless they get me a new unit real quick.

The only picture I took today was of the underside of the crossmember in the rear. Since it is an 80 year old Model A, it has some pits, and was impossible to get every speck of rust out of, so I Ospho'd it to kill what I missed through grinding.

Does anyone have any suggestions about something I can put on the bare metal to keep it from rusting in the event I can't shoot it real quick? I have heard Gibbs spray, but I would have to mail order that, which would take time.

oh oh, here comes that d***** bear again.....................

Don

Don
On rusted areas that I just can't get at I use a Permatex product called Rust Treatment. When it drys its black and can be primed and painted over. Never had a problem with it.

Yeah, I've seen that one too. Most of these are some form of phosphoric acid, that converts rust into something else (I can never remember the exact names) Por 15 is another. I've used Ospho for years on boats, it is cheap and works well.

I am wondering if I should metal etch the entire frame with something like metal prep (I think that is the name) I would use the Ospho all over, but I have heard that sometimes primers and paints lift later on.

Don

I used por 15 in places with no problems in 3 yrs, the paint guy said that it worked best if you at least painted primer over it with in a short time, I waited an hour. I used etching primer everywhere else with nothing coming through yet.

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

.....that converts rust into something else (I can never remember the exact names)

metal prep (I think that is the name)

Iron phosphate.

Metal prep is diluted phophoric acid.

Rust Mort is another commercially available form of phosphoric acid (which you can also buy at chemical supply houses in undiluted form and make your own). I've treated cleaned steel with phosphoric acid (and/or Rust Mort) and left it sitting for a few weeks without surface rusting.

I remember some company coming out with a roll on primer that was epoxy, sandable and easy to apply. will try to find out which paint company.
Brad

Don, PPG paint has a primer OSX1060 2K that is a roll on type primer.
Brad

Charlie,Brick, Bob, and Brad, thanks for the info. If I can't get it primed in the next day with Don's compressor, I am going to do the wipe routine you guy mentioned. I'd sure hate to have to start all over again getting the surface rust off.

A lot will depend on what Eaton says tomorrow AM.


Don

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Iron phosphate.

Metal prep is diluted phophoric acid.

Rust Mort is another commercially available form of phosphoric acid (which you can also buy at chemical supply houses in undiluted form and make your own). I've treated cleaned steel with phosphoric acid (and/or Rust Mort) and left it sitting for a few weeks without surface rusting.

Dumb question alert!!!!!

Do you have to neutralize the phosphoric acid before coating or painting?

Don,
What do you think happened to the compressor?

What a fluke, I could understand a compressor of lesser known quality goofing up.
Guess you have to chalk it up to "infant mortality".

Let us know what Eaton says.

Originally Posted by Supa Roosta

Dumb question alert!!!!!

Do you have to neutralize the phosphoric acid before coating or painting?

After it drys (~24 hr) it is non reactive. If you put on more than is necessary to convert the rust it forms a film that should be washed off with water.

Just got off the phone with Steve @ Eaton Compressors. Could not have been nicer or more apologetic. They are sending a new compressor today at no charge, and I will put the old one back on the pallet it comes on, and ship it back later on. He can't imagine what happened, but is not going to take any chances by just sending me a new seal. That is exactly the kind of service I thought they would give me, based on their reputation and the two compressors we have bought so far from them. Family based business with old time business ethics.

In the meantime, I slept on it, and have decided to brush on a thin coat of Ospho all over the frame to keep it from rusting till I can shoot primer. When Dan got home last night he said that is what he did on his suspension pieces because some of them were pitted, like the rear axle, and he just wiped it with a damp cloth and primed right over it. Might even be a good thing in the long run, because it will kill any little spots of rust I may have missed in a corner or something.

So, my project for today is pulling out the old compressor and cleaning up the oil spill. And the compressor ONLY weighs 175 lbs.

Don

Don, glad to hear that Eaton is on your side.
Not that I expected anything else.

There was a period where I couldn't buy anything with-out it pukeing on me or lack a vital compnent.
I'm not kidding, everything I bought for a period of about almost a year had me bending over and grabbing my ankles.
I started picking items from the back of the shelf, no help.
I'd open them up to make sure everything was accounted for before stepping up to the check-out.
I'd get home and the dam thing would be In-Op or pre broken.
I even tried having my wife go pick up the stuff for me. That was a 50/50 crap shoot. Not the product defect thingy, more in the lines of the wrong item, or she'd see something of like kind only cheaper (sorry dear take it back and get exactly what I asked for).
Finally she had enough too...
I don't know what happened to break the curse, but it was none too fast in happening...