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Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    BradC's Avatar
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    I vote for POPs ROD, it would look good next to your sons cars at shows.
    Brad

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Yeah, that isn't too bad........but don't tell Bob, you know what a big head he gets. I have 6 months to do it, because if I remember correctly from when I got the last vanity plate, you have to get a regular plate first and have it for 6 months, and then you can apply for a personalized one. Maybe it's changed in all these years, but that was how it was then.


    While all you nice people were eating hot dogs and shooting off fireworks today, I was working at the shop. I got lots of grinding done on the rear section, and got my seat risers cut and glassed in. I had to come home and take a shower as I was covered with fiberglass, but when I went back Dan was in the middle of doing his driveshaft hoops and tunnel, so I gave him a hand bending them up. He is really coming along well, and I see no reason he can't have it running by November.

    Here are some pictures of my seat riser (before I glassed it in) and the tin work we did on Dans '29. That rectangular cutout on my seat riser is where I am going to install my various switches. I am going to engine turn a piece of stainless steel and make a plate to cover the cutout and hold the switches.

    Don

  3. #3
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
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    happy birthday don. i'm running about a week behind now, but its about the best i can do. your car is coming around great.
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    Last edited by lt1s10; 07-06-2007 at 05:17 AM.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  4. #4
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike, really happy to hear from you. I'm always running about a week behind myself.


    Don

  5. #5
    brickman's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '48 chev Stylemaster
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    No tunes in the ol' roadster I take it Don?
    "Sunshine, a street rod and a winding beautiful Ozarks road is truely Bliss!"

  6. #6
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    No, I had one in the '27 and the only time I could hear it was when I stopped at at a redlight. The wind noise and exhaust was too loud. This one is going to be even louder with only headers and no mufflers, so it was just useless to install one.

    I guess I'll just have to listen to the engine as my entertainment.


    Don

  7. #7
    brickman's Avatar
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    Hey, since when is that all bad!!
    I have no air so it's all open windows and wings and vents and flowmaster 40's for me, my stereo has to rock to hear it. I understand what you are saying.
    "Sunshine, a street rod and a winding beautiful Ozarks road is truely Bliss!"

  8. #8
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
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    Ha, ha! I'm right there with you guys. I have a really nice AM-FM stereo CD player with USB port for auxiliary input and four good quality speakers in my coupe... It's real nice when I'm sitting at a stoplight or parked at a local show & shine. When I'm driving over 40 mph, it's just dashboard decoration.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  9. #9
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    While we are on the subject of stereos........I can't wait till I pull up at a redlight in my T, next to one of these idiots who have 15 inch speakers and the bass blaring. I think the baffled headers will give them a run for their money. Those things are the most annoying invention known to man.


    Today was nice and cool for some reason, so I went to the shop early and stayed all day. Got a lot done, actually. My project was finishing up the seat risers.

    Most T buckets have a single bench seat all the way across, but because mine is so low, and the driveshaft comes up so high, the driveshaft tunnel splits the seat into two seperate areas. Originally I wasn't going to have a riser, just upholstered pads on the floor, but I found that position is actually too low, and doesn't bend your knees enough to be comfortable. So I build some risers out of 1 x 4 pine, and today I glassed them in. I built a fiberglass "tub" in each side, and the one under the drivers seat will hold all my electrical components, like fuse panel, relays, switches, etc. The one on the passenger side will hold shallow tupperware containers with tools, and emergency repair items like fix a flat, etc.

    The entire wiring setup I built months ago is now going to be torn down and modified, because I realized there is just no room under the dash to install or repair any of the electrical stuff. All that I will have in the dash now is oil, temp, voltmeter, tach, and ignition switch. That will keep it pretty simple under there.

    I cut two pieces of 3/4 plywood for my seat bottoms. I will glass the topside, but treat the underside and all the other exposed wood with that green wood treatment that I can never remember the name of. The reason I don't want to put resin on some of the wood is so the upholserer has an easy time stapling the panels in place. If I put resin on them, the staples wouldn't get through.

    Here are some pictures of what got done today. BTW, Dan is off tomorrow, and has the whole day to get some stuff done on his. That should really move the floor work pretty far along.

    Don

  10. #10
    BradC's Avatar
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    Looking Good Don, can't wait till you mount it back on the frame.
    Brad

  11. #11
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1931 Roadster Pickup
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    Don---Looks really great. A word of advice----cut the center out of your seat boards and leave about a 2 3/4" flange of plywood around the edges. Do a cross weave of heavy webbing (like seat belt material) across the hole and glue/nail the ends to the plywood perimeter---then set your seat cushion material on top of that. It makes an amazing difference in seating comfort.---Brian
    Old guy hot rodder

  12. #12
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. Brad, I have to set the body back on one more time before I get too much further, just to make sure everything clears and fits, and will probably do that this week.

    You know Brian, I think that is a good idea. It would give a little more "spring" to that area. Do you think the webbing you can buy to redo lawn chairs would be ok to use? You mention seat belt material, but I'm not sure where to get that, short of going to the junkyard and start cutting some belts up.

    I like it. Thanks for the suggestion.


    Don

  13. #13
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    Don---I might use the lawn chair stuff, but double it for strength. I have seen a lot of old lawn chairs where this webbing looks pretty damn frail. You might ask at some upholstery shops. I have always used old seat belt material----of course my butt is a lot heavier than yours.
    Old guy hot rodder

  14. #14
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    Well, there is no reason I can't hit the junkyard with my trusty razor knife. Since the nearest pick and pull is about 60 miles from here, I think I'll go to Home Depot and see if they have some extra heavy webbing first. I know what you mean about the garden variety rewebbing stuff they sell, it is pretty light duty, but maybe they make several grades.

    I can see the concept, how it would allow you to "sink" down just a bit more and provide a little more comfort. Do you think burlap on top would be a good idea to keep the foam from busting through?


    Don

  15. #15
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Do you think burlap on top would be a good idea to keep the foam from busting through?


    Don
    That would work, but you should wrap your foam in muslin before upholstering anyway, so that would be enough. Don't use the lawn chair stuff, it stretches too much.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

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