Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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I mentioned a couple weeks ago that I thought a safe, dependable hot rod could be built for $ 3000.00. It wouldn't have tons of chrome and flash, but would be a basic, get-in-and-drive rod, that would not be embarrassing to drive. I felt if I built it the way we used to, by using parts we could scrounge from swapmeets, and other sources, it was attainable.

The main reason I thought this project might be appropriate is that there are a large number of our members who are thinking about building their own rod, but don't know how to begin, or what car to build. That first car can be very confusing, and mind-boggling when you start adding up the costs and labor.

The car I am doing is the most basic car you can build, a Fiberglass T Bucket. I chose this car because A) I have a couple of them laying around and B) While they are a great entry level car, they also can be built expensively and of show quality. I am not going to build it in the traditional nose-down, rear up in the air style, but rather, I am going to put it low all the way around. I am probably not going to use the bed, just an old fuel tank back there.

I have a stash of parts that I have been accumulating off of Ebay and swap meets, and will use as many of these as I can. To be honest in the pricing, I will add in whatever I paid for those pieces as I use them, because if I didn't, it would distort the actual amount I have in the car.

The basis will be a T Bucket kit I bought off of Ebay about a month ago. I paid $ 530.00 for it, and picked it up. It is a body, bed, and 2x3 inch rectangular frame. The front of the frame is ok (I won't Z it) but the perch needs modified to drop the car lower. I will Z the back of the frame about 12 inches more, to drop it level.

For front suspension, I am using a 4 inch dropped Superbell I beam axle I bought on ebay for $ 190.00. We actually bought 2 at the same time, and my Son is using one under his '29. The radius rods are '37 Ford (I think) They have already been fitted with bungs and rod ends, but we will reweld them and add a brace to the front edge, as we are going to hang the front spring and shocks from this wishbone. The spring I have in the picture is too short, so I'll order a new one from Speedway, probably. The shock mounts are also Ebay and I paid $ 50.00 for the pair, and I paid $ 20.00 for the chrome shocks (used).

I have a '99 Chevy 5.7 out of a boat that we repowered for a customer, I got it free. It is a roller cam engine, and I will only have it machined, honed, and do a bearing and ring job on it. It ran good, but the guy wanted a brand new engine, so I got this one. I will change the cam to a better profile, add a four barrel intake, and maybe one of those carb adapters to put 2 X 2 barrels on it for the old time look. I will probably build headers, or use blockhuggers.

I just won a 3 speed Chevy trans and New Hurst shifter for $ 29.95 tonight on Ebay (shipping will probably be a little bit) and will try to use it if there is room for the clutch pedal. T Buckets are a little tight. If not, I'll get a 350 from the junk yard and freshen it up.

For a rear axle, I was going to use an 8 inch Ford I have, but it is already set up for coil overs for the other T bucket I have, so I don't want to mess that up. So, I will pick up one at the junkyard, for about $ 100.00

I have two steering boxes to choose from: a '55 Jeep that I got free on Ebay, (it was misrepresented as being rebuilt, and the guy told me to keep it and he still refunded the money.......nice honest ebayer) or I have one out of a 2002 model BMW that makes a great cowl steering unit. I paid $ 75.00 for it, and my Son is using the same model box in his '29, works great.

So, tonight I mocked up the car, to get an idea of what I need to do. As it sits in the picture, there is $ 900.00 invested in it. I am keeping a log, and will keep posting updates as I go along.

Some of you may not agree with the way the car will go together, and that is ok. It is meant to be an exercise, and give some ideas to younger or less experienced rodders. If it accomplishes that, it will be worth it.

Here are some pictures of where I am at right now.

Thanks, hope this didn't bore any of you.

Don

I know there is a way to link these all in one, but I'm stupid, so I have to do it this way.......

And finally.........

This thread is awesome, thanks!

:subscribing:

ebay is easier than going out to the junkyard, and you can scope out alot from just couch.
i like checking out the kit cars, ok helicopters too

Great idea Don. I would suggest you assign a value to the sugar daddy engine as an adjunct since most folks don't have opportunities to get good running engines gratis. Also, maybe emphasize what skills and time/tools you've used for certain operations that might not normally be in an inexperienced beginner's possession. Just to give an idea of not only the cost in dollars, but also tools, time, and talent. Those three areas are usually grossly underestimated by the inexperienced. Just one of the many areas I know you're familiar with as an example would be wiring. This will likely be one of the most basic systems imaginable, and you're experienced at doing wiring on a daily basis, and I'd bet you're still going to be in it more hours than the unknowing could imagine.

As for the multiple picture thing, you post the 2nd, 3rd, etc, the same way you did the first and they just accumulate in the single posting........nothing to it.

Thanks for the comments guys. I think this will be a fun build. I've decided to give it to my one Son when it's done, so he has something to drive to Turkey Run next November. He is building an '84 Capri drag/street car, but it is too new for Daytona.

You are right about the 5.7 Bob. It does need freshening up, but if you went to the local pick a part it would be anywhere from $ 100.00 to $ 150.00. ( I've bought them locally for that figure, and since they made like 13 zillion 350's a person could even pick up a wrecked car with trans and all for a couple hundred, if he shopped well.

As for the equipment factor, you are right on the money there, Bob. It has always been my contention that you can't build a car with 1/2 of a toolbox filled with mismatched jap tools, it just can't happen. But I have built similar cars in one car garages (one even had a dirt floor............tough to get the frame level on dirt ) so I will try to stay away from our Plasma cutters, migs, and the like. I will break out my old Lincoln arc welder and use that to do the fabricating. I want this thing to be something the average first timer could build with limited resources, financially and equipment-wise.

I hope this exercise doesn't bore any of the more experienced among you, but it is not aimed at this audience. It will be very basic and elementary, and a little crude, and I will try to show each step as it progresses.

Thanks, Don

Also, thanks for the tips on picture posting, I was afraid to do that in case I would wipe out the first picture. I'll try it on later posts.

Yeah, but don't you just hate it when they slip that RUBBER glove on.

Don

Don, I'll add something that I wrote a while back so that others can see that they can build a dimensionally accurate vehicle no matter what floor they're working off of. When I built one of these floors to build my T off of, I found that the garage floor was off by 2 3/4" in 10 feet.

http://streetmachinesoftablerock.com...opic.php?t=425

Sounds like something Confusious would say.(Never rile man who wear rubber glove before..................)
Don

I like the idea too, it will be interesting to see how it turns out money AND time wise (also an area I think people tend to underestimate).

For those of us that having been building cars for years and possibly working/having worked in the buisness it's second nature to collect parts and have a stash put away of "someday parts" (the deals that were just too good to pass up even if there was no immediate use for the parts). One example in my collection is the 6 duece Hemi manifold I picked up at a swap meet YEARS ago for $100. Current prices on E Bay are now around $600. I'm not saying good deals are not out there, but you might also want to include current fair market value on the REALLY good deals you've gotten.

It will be a very interesting thread to watch.

Mike: You are right about the inflation factor. Luckily, for the sake of the math in this project, most of the stash that will be used was purchased within the last year. I went on an Ebay buying binge, and was buying up all the wire wheels, headlight sets, wishbones, '40 Ford brakes, etc that I could get my hands on. Became sort of compulsive about it.

I am seeing the prices rise very rapidly because of the renewed interest in building back to basic cars (ala rat rods). The weird part is, the rat rodders started building these basic cars as sort of a protest to the high dollar cars, and now they have created their own high prices. I guess thats why we are seeing choppers and the like built out of 2 x 4's.

As for the time factor, yep, it takes alot longer to do than you anticipate. If I can keep my Son Dan away from helping me on this one it will go alot faster, because he is a perfectionist, and each bracket will be ground and polished, etc. That is ok, but not my goal in this build. It is going to be a little rough, but safe and sound. I also work 6 days a week, so doing it on Sunday and evenings will be a little tough.

I really appreciate the fact the responses so far have been positive. I was afraid it would be met with ho-hum. I do hope there will be something in it for the guys and gals just getting their feet wet in building.

Don

Hey Don I think this is a great idea, and good luck with your build.
You know that we can't stand not to comment and try to add into the mix, it's the nature of the beast, so I have a tidbit about the rear shocks. Honda chrome coil overs (for motorcycles) will work on the rear and you can pick them up at the junk yards for 5 bucks each. They are also adjustable ride height's.
Hope this helps.

Good tip, thanks, but I already have a Model A rear spring, and am going the traditional route. Sounds like a great way to get coil overs, though, at a good price.

Don

Wow what a great idea. I'll definitely be following you in this thread. ---Rich