Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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As I mentioned earlier, I would like to do some fiberglassing this weekend ,when I can take the body outside to keep some of the grinding mess down in the shop. But first I have finish up the driveshaft hoops before the floor is in. Then I can remove the entire hoop structure as one big assembly, glass in the floor and interior wooding, then weld the hoops permanently to the frame, and finally cut out the floor to fit over the hoops.

The reason I want to keep the plywood floor in one piece until all the wood is in there is because it will stay straighter than if I cut it now. Once the backrest and side pieces are glassed in, there will be enough strength there so it should not lose it's shape until I glass the trans and driveshaft tunnel permanently in place.

I was also able to shrink the width and height of the driveshaft hoops. I had originally allowed way more room than I actually needed for the driveshaft to move up and down, and sideways (due to rear axle shifting on turns) I got that down considerably so that I will now have enough hip room . You will notice the very rear hoop is wider and taller than the other two, that is because I needed more room there for the rear axle yoke to spin and go up and down. That portion is behind my seat slightly, and will be pretty much hidden in the backrest. I plan to flare out the driveshaft tunnel there and also in front of the very front hoop, so that it will blend into the transmission tunnel.

Ken Thurm got me thinking when we were discussion the Odyssey Battery we are both using (hey Bob, I called it the right name this time ) He mentioned it should be about 3 feet from the starter for best performance. I was originally planning on mounting it on the drivers side, but that run would have been further than if I put it on the passenger side. I still am about 4 feet, but closer than the other way. So, I built a battery box and mounting bracket to put it right on the rear round crossmember. When I weld in the driveshaft hoops I will tie it into that structure for strength.

I made the box that holds the battery unboltable so that if Odyssey ever discontinues this particular battery I won't be left hanging with a welded in box. As you can see in the one picture, the angle iron box I made mounts straight up and down, rather that having the battery sit on top of it, as is usually done. I will slide the battery into this "shelf" and hold it in place with two metal straps that bolt across the back side. It only weighs like 15 lbs, so there should be no problem with it sitting there in this fashion.

Now I just have to clean up the steel for welding, and I plan on going back tonight after dinner and doing some of that. These small chores are a bear to get out of the way, but until I do, I can't go on to the body mounting.

Here are some pictures of what I got done today. Obviously, I have to trim off the excess part of the hoops that extends below the frame. I am also going to cut off the heads of the bolts that are holding on the battery box and flush weld them in so the battery can sit flat.

Don

PS: I also know the real driveshaft will be fatter than the PVC mockup, but allowed enough room for that one too.