Thread: Project $ 3 K Is Underway

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Don
I figured I 'd come back and your car would be done. I'm actualy driving mine every chance I get. The people in town know when I'm around they say I built a real "Window rattler" I just love driving it.

Are you setting off everybody's car alarm? You kids and your loud pipes. Do I remember you saying you were going to Florida for a little trip?

No, my rod isn't running, but I am getting slightly closer. I have been sort of pooped since all the weekend work Dan and I did on it, and then Monday helping my other Son move put the icing on the cake. I have been taking lots of naps the past few days.

I did get over to the shop tonight (I've started going later in the day to avoid the heat of the midafternoon) and I got the battery all mounted. That little square box I built for the battery needed two studs made for the bottom to bolt it to the frame, and an L bracket to bolt the top to the kickup. I got that done and also made the hold down strap and a little lip out of angle iron to keep the battery from ever sliding out of the holder from bumps in the road.

I didn't take the camera because the stuff I am doing now is sort of boring stuff, like tomorrow I am going to do more grinding and smoothing on the frame so I can get some color on it. That's about where I am at Charlie.

Welcome back.

Don

Don battery hold down is something i've been wondering . Thing is under the floor and most is missing . I have thought of adapting but haven't seen a picture in my head yet .

Oh and welcome back Cff .

Don'
Went to Nebraska. There is a body shop about 1 mi. from the boys house all he does is old cars and he has a LOT full. If I get time I'll post some pictures he has a 49 chevy 2 dr panel wagon there that is complete and only needs minor work on the floor. $2900. A few chevy p/u cabs 36/37/38 $2 to 300. Just a great colection of early iron. Seems about every body shop out there has a seletion of them. Sorry I didn't bring the trailer with.

Hey Don, not to steal your thread, but I was wondering if your son bought the TP wiring harness for his project. My T came wired with one and i'm having problems tracking down some problem's as the previous owner did not keep the wiring diagram.

I am close to just ordering a new harness but the car is so close to being able to drive I really don't want to go backward's at this point, so if any one out there would happen to have a diagram for the TP harness it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank's for the use of your thread Don, I just know this is THE place for T bucket information.

Ron

Bobby: Probably the easiest thing is to just build a new box out of something like 1 x 1 or 1.25 x 1.25 angle iron, and make a square base out of it, brace it , and weld it under the floor to the frame. Or, they sell drop in boxes that you just cut a hole in the floor and drop it in, and bolt it on. If you are sharing space with the battery, don't use a lead acid (wet cell) battery. They fume when charging, and those are not good for you in an unventilated cockpit. A drycell battery like an Optima or Oddesey are good for that purpose.

Charlie: That's right, Nebraska, now I remember. Everything I have heard is what you are describing. Old tin all over the place. If I lived there I would be in hog heaven. Glad you enjoyed your trip.

Ron: No hijack at all, we chew the fat about everything on here. No, he didn't get the TP one, I think he bought a Painless. It is still sitting in the box, and I remember seeing it on his shelves. What is going on with yours? maybe we can figure it out. I think you can go on TP website and download portions of their build book. Dan downloaded the frame section when we built Dons frame and it cost like $ 2.50 to do that.

But lets hear what is going on, and maybe we can figure it out for you.

Don

Don,
Do you or anyone where the spring goes on the radiator mount? Does it go on top or under crossmember?
A thought on finishes, I used a "hammertone" on my engine and trans. and I was thinking a black Hammertone on the suspension or select pieces might look kool.
Thanks for the neat thread.
Jim

Jim: MY UNDERSTANDING of how the spring goes is that you put the rubber pads down first, then put the radiator on top of those, then slip the bolt through the spring and put the spring on top of the radiator mount going down through the mount and rubber pad. Sort of like the spring sits up there and acts like a stress reliever. The spring lets it flex up and down, I think.

Now, that could be all wrong, as I have never used one, so one of our more knowledgable model A/ '32 guys on here will know for sure. I'm interested in knowing the answer too.

Don

PS: Yeah, I agree on the hammertone. I am sort of going to do that with the flattened paint on the frame, I am going to back away a little with the spray gun on the last coat and give it a less smooth, more textured finish.

Ron: No hijack at all, we chew the fat about everything on here. No, he didn't get the TP one, I think he bought a Painless. It is still sitting in the box, and I remember seeing it on his shelves. What is going on with yours? maybe we can figure it out. I think you can go on TP website and download portions of their build book. Dan downloaded the frame section when we built Dons frame and it cost like $ 2.50 to do that.

But lets hear what is going on, and maybe we can figure it out for you.

Don[/QUOTE]
Thank's, the first issue is I suck at electrical stuff, but usually through perseverance I can get things done. The second issue is the TP harness does not use a fuse block it only has fuseable links, and they don't mark the wires as alot of companies do.

My brake lights don't work, and there were enough gauges in the car to overwelm a pilot, and then there are the mystery wires that go to nothing.
I think a schematic would work for me, and I will try the TP site. If all else fails I am looking at the Rebel Wiring harness I saw on the HAMB.

Thank's again Ron

Ron: You got me to thinking (Ok Bob and Charlie, take your shots ) you said the TP wiring kit doesn't have a fuse block, only fusable links. I don't think so. I think you have some other brand, or are missing the fuse block or don't realize it is there somewhere.

I went onto TP website, looked at their wiring kit, and it says is is made by American Autowire, and the picture shows a block. How sure are you that you have their kit? Something is wrong here.

Don