37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[bluestang67]

Rich that is some good info and diagrams

[406Rich]

Well just trying to help if I understood him right..!

[406Rich]

I need new exhaust on my `37, haven`t as of yet choosen a set of hedders, but want to stay with 2.5 tube, x-pipe and been looking at the flowmaster hushpower series or the super 40`s, any and all you guys advice on them anti up, here`s they`re lasted video on them, filmed here in Sacramento where they originated from.

Flowmaster Muffler Comparison - YouTube

[Don Shillady]

In my setup the parking lights should be OFF when the headlights are ON because the parking lights are used as the turn signals. I just received a new Speedway No. 910-64051 and will try again.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[34_40]

In my setup the parking lights should be OFF when the headlights are ON because the parking lights are used as the turn signals. I just received a new Speedway No. 910-64051 and will try again.
Don Shillady Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don, just wanted to verify, your running (parking) lights and your turn signals are 1 lamp with 2 filaments, correct? like a 1157 probably.... is that correct? Our setups are similar so I was curious..

[Don Shillady]

34-40,
Mostly correct. Although I bought my headlights at a NSRA meet, I believe they are from TPI. They have two filament bulbs and a row of yellow LEDs along the bottom in a "smiling" crescent shape.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[35fordcoupe]

That's good information to know Rich! I'm glad I haven't cut up my wiring yet and installed a second switch on the parking lights. So if I'm understanding correctly, I should be able to get say a '66 pick up switch without "marker" lights and still plug that into my harness? I understand the mod making the parking lights stay on (although I don't get why..), but I'm not sure how I could modify the existing switch to keep the parking lights off since its not like I have the two wires connected together..

[34_40]

35fordcoupe, what Don Shilady and I have, is a switch that shuts off the front "parking/run" lamps when the headlights are turned on. I believe mine is that way and am going to verify that info tonite. Don got his headlight switch from Speedway and I got mine from Ron Francis. If my switch is the way I think it is, I'll post a part number for ya'll... Don has P.N. posted above. That should give you some choices in switches...

[35fordcoupe]

35fordcoupe, what Don Shilady and I have, is a switch that shuts off the front "parking/run" lamps when the headlights are turned on. I believe mine is that way and am going to verify that info tonite. Don got his headlight switch from Speedway and I got mine from Ron Francis. If my switch is the way I think it is, I'll post a part number for ya'll... Don has P.N. posted above. That should give you some choices in switches...

It didn't sound like Don had everything ironed out yet so I don't want to jump on that part number yet. My running lights are used as turn signals too but the turn signal that is on flashes while the other side stays on. Not necessarily a problem I'd just rather have the running lights off. If you could let me know what you find I would appreciate it. Thanks!

[Don Shillady]

I have found you can't debug the circuit while connected so I took the unit completely out and have studied it with an ohm meter. I think I have it figured out now but will confirm as soon as it works.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[Don Shillady]

Well, I understand the switch now (Speedway 910-64051) but I must have something wrong in the headlight wiring or a lack of ground for the parking lights. I still have headlights and tail lights when the switch is pulled all the way out but nothing when the switch is pulled half way out. Here is what I found with the ohm meter.

Switch Pull......Battery.....Acc/Park.....Running Lights.....Head Lights
.....0...............+12V...........0...................0.......................0
...1/2..............+12V.......+12V.............+12V.....................0
...Full..............+12V...........0...............+12V..................+12V

Based on these readings I think the tail lights should be connected to the Running Light terminal so the tail lights will be ON for both the Park light option and ON with the headlights.

Then the Parking lights should be connected to the Acc/Park terminal so the Parking Lights will only be on when the pull switch is 1/2 out.

Sad to say this does not work on my setup so I must have some other problem and I will need to check the headlight wiring again. On my currect setup a test light does not follow the same pattern as when the switch is disconnected so I must have a ground loop somewhere or a lack of ground for the Parking Lights. This probably means unwrapping all the wires to the headlight units. This is frustrating to say the least!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[406Rich]

That's good information to know Rich! I'm glad I haven't cut up my wiring yet and installed a second switch on the parking lights. So if I'm understanding correctly, I should be able to get say a '66 pick up switch without "marker" lights and still plug that into my harness? I understand the mod making the parking lights stay on (although I don't get why..), but I'm not sure how I could modify the existing switch to keep the parking lights off since its not like I have the two wires connected together..

I always thought that it was `60-`65 that was setup that way but LMC lists it to 66, I know for sure `60-65 are because I`ve had several of them and parking lights and headlights independent, but had always thought that GM made the switch in `66, the reason for the jump wire was just to look like the `66 parking lamps on all the time.

[Don Shillady]

I just finished soldering the ground wires for the headlights and the parking lights together so they now have the same ground for sure. However I still do not have parking lights even though the headlights are very bright! On Easter Sunday afternoon my 5 year old grand daughter sat in my car and messed with every knob on the dash. At that time I had the parking lights and the tail lights both connected to the "running lights" terminal and now I see why the parking lights were on (briefly). The TPI tech guy told me some folks run the parking lights together with the headlights so there is a yellow tinge from the yellow LEDs as for a fog light effect but I want the greater contrast from the yellow turn signals against the white headlights rather than against a yellow parking light background. The only good information in this message is that you can hook the parking lights to either the Acc/park terminal OR the Running Lights/Park terminal as you can see from the little chart I gave above. The only requirement is that the tail lights have to be on the Running Lights terminal in either case when using the Speedway 910-64051 switch. However this problem is driving me up the wall! I am now putting the battery on a long trickle charge so I make sure the battery is at full charge. Can any electrical expert on this Forum comment on whether the problem has to do with different voltage/amperage requirements for the yellow LEDs versus the filament headlight bulb?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[34_40]

Sad to say I didn't get to the shop today, but I'll try and get it done tomorrow.. Life got in the way.. sigh..

[Don Shillady]

lightswitch001.jpgYahoo! There are two blue wires marked PWR in the TPI wiring set. I had the two reversed as to the "Battery" terminal. This was discovered using a test light. Now FINALLY I have hi/lo beam headlights and very nice yellow parking lights! Thanks for putting up with my angst. At Present I have the power to the Parking Lights connected to the Acc/Park terminal and the Tailight and Instrument light wires are attached to the Running Light/Park terminal. The mixup was fixed by putting the hi/lo foot switch to the headlight terminal and the "headlight PWR" wire to the +12V Battery terminal. Now it works! Brian is the Tech at Speedway who suggested the test light check.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder