37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[34_40]

IC2/ Dave,
I guess I'll have to agree with you in that they make some nice parts. Just wish they'd listen to our complaints and improve just a touch!

I don't think I've looked for the photo section.. (YIKES!) I guess I better get over there! I have watched this thread for almost the whole year! It was your e-brake that made me jump in.. Hope Randy jumps back in with an update.

Yeah, flatland... 8-( I was way west of here, New Mexico and then Indiana. Wish I coulda stayed out there too!

Who said it (your post) was to short?

Mike

[randyr]

IC2/ Dave,
I have watched this thread for almost the whole year! It was your e-brake that made me jump in.. Hope Randy jumps back in with an update.


Mike

Hey Mike,
Welcome to our thread. Obviously you've discovered Dave is a great resource of information, posts reallly good pics and just seems like an all around good guy! He has certainly been a great help to me!

Speaking of Dave.....how are you Dave? I have been sick as a dog for the last few days so needless to say, I have very little to report on my car. As previously posted, I have partially mounted the AC & bulkhead. I also tacked in a bracket to hold my fuse box. I'm trying to decide if there's anything else that will need to be attached to the inside of the firewall. I'm trying not to have any extraneous holes in the firewall except for the steering column, wire loom & bulkhead. That'll be a sharp contrast to my old firewall won't it?? LOL!

If I can finish the firewall and paint it, I could go ahead and mount the engine and crank it up. I keep moving slowly hoping that I could gather the funds to have the car media blasted while I have it taken apart. I found a place within 40 miles who quoted me $1100-1200 for the whole car, inside & out, except for underneath. The floorboards are new anyway so that shouldn't be a problem. They have a good reputation with cars and use a mix of walnut shells & glass medium. Of course, I would still need to find a way to shoot the epoxy primer on. He said he could recommend somebody so I may check that out. I think I could get away with shooting the firewall in my little garage but certainly not the whole car.

If it works out so I can have it blasted soon, then I'll go ahead with shaving the door handles and some of those other mods that require some welding on the body. Otherwise, I'll have to focus on putting it back together and driving it as a psuedo rat rod/hotrod/work in progress for a while.

Anyway, that's the update from the left coast for now. Dave we need some more pics of that bright paint job! I'm anxious to see it assembled. Of course, I'm sure you are too!!

Later,
Randy

[randyr]

Heck, while I'm at it I might as well show you guys what I'm up against for shaving the door handles and installing bearclaw latches. When my dad and I were building this car eons ago, I requested power locks as one of the features I'd like on the car along with the power windows, power steering, cruise control & AC that we were working on. We weren't aware of any prefab kits and weren't plugged into any hotrod groups at that time (this was in rural Oklahoma) so we were kinda on our own with a tight budget and access to a little salvage yard.

Dad felt like we had to update the latching mechanism in order power the locks. He selected a 60's GM style setup which he configured into the door. Then after all that work, he couldn't figure out how to power the locks given the space limitations in the door. Thus, this is what I've had on the car for years. I've never liked these door handles on this car. I would consider attaching solenoids to these latches rather than installing bearclaws but they are pretty worn and don't always latch so easily.

I purchased the installation brackets with my bearclaw kit so I'll need to do some careful measuring and cutting to remove what's there and replace with the new stuff unless you guys have some better ideas......

[34_40]

Hey Mike,
Welcome to our thread. Obviously you've discovered Dave is a great resource of information, posts reallly good pics and just seems like an all around good guy! He has certainly been a great help to me!

Thanks Randy, Sorry to hear that you're under the weather, hope it blows over quickly! 10-4 on Irelands Child\IC2\Dave... all around great guy who takes such good pics.. LOL.. quite knowledgeable also.. I'm not sure what direction you're looking to go regarding the door latches. Is you kit requiring you to replace the door mechansims and latches?? Or, is it a "retro-fit" arrangement?? Or, are you installing just solenoids and linkages?? I know, too many questions! 8-) Mike

[randyr]

. I'm not sure what direction you're looking to go regarding the door latches. Is you kit requiring you to replace the door mechansims and latches?? Or, is it a "retro-fit" arrangement?? Or, are you installing just solenoids and linkages?? I know, too many questions! 8-) Mike

I purchased a kit complete with bearclaw latches, solenoids, remote entry etc. because I figured the current set up is too worn out to use. Both doors usually require closing pretty hard to make them latch. Otherwise, I would just remove the door handles, attach some solenoids, a remote and be done with it. I suppose if someone wanted to convince me that these latches are worth keeping even though the door handles don't look good on the car, then I might reconsider and save myself some work.....LOL! Either way, the door jams need some TLC! LOL!

[IC2]

OK guys, you are trying to give me a big head when all I am is old and crusty

Randy, sounds like you have that flu bug that they didn't get the flu shot right for this year. My wife and I have been fighting off something since Monday - possibly the after effect of the Patriots losing to the Giants

The latches you are using look worn out!! Bear claws are relatively easy to install. That is once you get over the fear of messing up your doors and posts. Measure 3-4 times then cut out the latch hole, patch the post, then install the striker, crank up the welder and finish the job. A little grinding, some filler, primer and paint is all there is to doing the mod. For sure it will be easier then installing that firewall and floorboards.

The price for media blasting seems a bit high, but then you are in the expensive part of the country with Arnold taxing your businesses as badly or worse as our gov. Maybe you can convince the guy to do the underside for the same price.

With the pictures of you car, the paint is beginning to look tired - but if I'm not mistaken, it's 20 or so years old, so expected. Any idea for the new color yet? Most of the '37 I see now are pretty bright

As far as my doing much on my car? Until I can get out in the unheated garage at something more then the 35-40 degrees it has been, not a lot more will happen. The weather forecast for the next few days is chilly with a cold snap/snow on the way for the next week or so. The chassis is in my heated basement garage and I have only a couple more little projects and it will be at 100% ready for the body.

Later

[randyr]

OK guys, you are trying to give me a big head when all I am is old and crusty

Randy, sounds like you have that flu bug that they didn't get the flu shot right for this year. My wife and I have been fighting off something since Monday - possibly the after effect of the Patriots losing to the Giants

The latches you are using look worn out!! Bear claws are relatively easy to install. That is once you get over the fear of messing up your doors and posts. Measure 3-4 times then cut out the latch hole, patch the post, then install the striker, crank up the welder and finish the job. A little grinding, some filler, primer and paint is all there is to doing the mod. For sure it will be easier then installing that firewall and floorboards.

The price for media blasting seems a bit high, but then you are in the expensive part of the country with Arnold taxing your businesses as badly or worse as our gov. Maybe you can convince the guy to do the underside for the same price.

With the pictures of you car, the paint is beginning to look tired - but if I'm not mistaken, it's 20 or so years old, so expected. Any idea for the new color yet? Most of the '37 I see now are pretty bright

As far as my doing much on my car? Until I can get out in the unheated garage at something more then the 35-40 degrees it has been, not a lot more will happen. The weather forecast for the next few days is chilly with a cold snap/snow on the way for the next week or so. The chassis is in my heated basement garage and I have only a couple more little projects and it will be at 100% ready for the body.

Later

Ok, Mister Big Old Crusty Head.....LOL!

You're right, those latches are tired! So is the paint! I'm not afraid to tackle the new latches. I just always like to explore the options before committing to the cutting, you know? As for the paint color, I'm leaning strongly towards Sunset Pearlescent found on the 07 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Ford has a similar color on the Edge called Blazing Copper. It looks like it's on fire when the sun hits it. Of course that look could also be caused by an electrical short.....but I digress......

That quote from the media blaster was over the phone without him seeing the car. I got another quote (again without him seeing the car) from Hotrods & Custom Stuff down by San Diego to completely blast & epoxy prime inside & out for $2600 labor & materials included. That made the $1100 guy sound pretty cheap in comparison. Perhaps either place would be cheaper if they actually saw the car......but that's a little problematic since neither is just down the street.

I hear ya on the weather. We've been in the bone-chilling 50's here lately!!! Supposed to be in the low 70's by the weekend though. Now if I can completely exterminate this nasty flu bug by then, I'll be a happy camper!!

Later....

[IC2]

Ok, Mister Big Old Crusty Head.....LOL!

As for the paint color, I'm leaning strongly towards Sunset Pearlescent found on the 07 Mitsubishi Eclipse. Ford has a similar color on the Edge called Blazing Copper. It looks like it's on fire when the sun hits it. Of course that look could also be caused by an electrical short.....but I digress......


...

Only one more comment today - the ricer might be a 3 part paint vs a US 2 part. And when you price the paint, make sure you are sitting down and holding on to something solid. Mine listed out at about $600/gallon(DuPont) and it took a gallon and a half (but I did get some great pricing help from the supplier but it was still ~$600 plus ~$250 for the SPI clear) and the pearl adds at least 25% to the cost.

[34_40]

Only one more comment today - the ricer might be a 3 part paint vs a US 2 part. And when you price the paint, make sure you are sitting down and holding on to something solid. Mine listed out at about $600/gallon(DuPont) and it took a gallon and a half (but I did get some great pricing help from the supplier but it was still ~$600 plus ~$250 for the SPI clear) and the pearl adds at least 25% to the cost.

Okay Crusty... You're just full of good news, aren't you!!??!! ROFL...
Everyone keeps asking me what color will the car be and I just don't have any clue! I'm thinking I'll get it into California Velvet for this summer and put off paint for another season. Heck, I've got to get the registration completed first! Gotta visit the dept. of REVENUE for that one! LOL...

Randy, as Dave said measure 4X first! It's only metal and you did a first rate job on the firewall!

Later, Mike

[IC2]

Okay Crusty... You're just full of good news, aren't you!!??!! ROFL...
Everyone keeps asking me what color will the car be and I just don't have any clue! I'm thinking I'll get it into California Velvet for this summer and put off paint for another season. Heck, I've got to get the registration completed first! Gotta visit the dept. of REVENUE for that one! LOL...

Randy, as Dave said measure 4X first! It's only metal and you did a first rate job on the firewall!

Later, Mike

Mike,
DuPont has a finish paint that looks like primer, but is really a ChromaBase. PPG probably has on now as well. Just a reminder, and may only be a sermon - regular primer is not waterproof. You need an epoxy primer to be weatherproof/resistant.

[34_40]

Mike,
DuPont has a finish paint that looks like primer, but is really a ChromaBase. PPG probably has on now as well. Just a reminder, and may only be a sermon - regular primer is not waterproof. You need an epoxy primer to be weatherproof/resistant.

IC2, Don't know what a chromabase is... I was familiar that the regular primers weren't waterproof. Thanks for bringing it up tho'.. I've got a lot to learn when it comes to paint & prep.. I've been spending a lot of time in that forum just reading and reading... Soon I'll need to check out a local paint shop / supplier and see what products they offer. If I can make my car look 1/2 as good as you did on yours Dave, I'll be happy!

Thanks Again, Mike

[IC2]

IC2, Don't know what a chromabase is... I was familiar that the regular primers weren't waterproof. Thanks for bringing it up tho'.. I've got a lot to learn when it comes to paint & prep.. I've been spending a lot of time in that forum just reading and reading... Soon I'll need to check out a local paint shop / supplier and see what products they offer. If I can make my car look 1/2 as good as you did on yours Dave, I'll be happy!

Thanks Again, Mike

Mike,
ChromaBase is DuPont's non isocyanate base coat paint. While it doesn't have that particular nasty in it, you still need a fair amount of personal protection, regardless. I'm shortly going to PM you some other information that, if you decide to paint your own car, is really a good resource or two. The new paints aren't like the paints of old where you did some body work, used your favorite primer and shot 20 coats of lacquer or a couple coats of enamel. A note about your local paint supplier - if he's a good guy and has experience as a painter, he will probably give you pretty good advice. Mostly what I have found in my area that they really don't have a clue and it's a "job" and what little they know is from the sales rep and BS sessions at the counter. I'm really an low to medium advanced amateur with mediocre skills - but have used some of these folks for my resource. Painting your own car is fun, discouraging, enlightening, patience trying, frustrating, a PITA, interesting and can be expensive. All of these emotions can be felt within minutes of each other. My 40 year old son has said that he never knew that I could have that much patience - my motto had always been "Patience, hell, I gonna go kill something"

[34_40]

Thanks Dave. My head is on overload now...

[IC2]

Mike,
Any time you need to get an overload of info - just make a post here and someone will give you more facts then you can absorb. Jjust wait for likes of DennyW, Dave Severson or Bob Parmenter get hold of you .

[randyr]

Well Dave, here's what I've been working on this weekend.....this is obvioulsy the driver's side door. I removed & patched holes from the old handle. I also cut out the area for the old latch so I could fit the new mounting bracket in place. I have it tacked in to check the fit before welding it up. I'm also having to rebuild the area that was modified on the door pillar because the latch pin wasn't sticking out far enough to engage the bearclaw. Here's where I wish my metal working skills were far more advanced but I'm making due with what I know so far....If you have any suggestions or thoughts to make it easier or neater, do tell!

In the last pic, notice the gap at the top back edge of the door.....it fits the door pillar well except that last 6 inches towards the top. It's always been that way but I'd like to correct it if possible. Any thoughts on how to do that? The rest of the door fits well.

Are you getting any warmer days for your project?

Randy