37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[Irelands child]

My master cylinder is currently on the firewall (tons of

Randy - you should really consider putting the MC under the floor. The main advantage of that is keeping the paint on the firewall intact. Brake fluid eats paint - and don't even consider silicone brake fluid - that adds to a street driven cars problems. (I already hear the detractors gnashing their teeth, but experience has given me a real hate for the stuff)

The disadvantages of a MC below the floor are that you will need to plumb in a pair of residual pressure valves and it is a PITA to check and fill.

[randyr]

Randy - you should really consider putting the MC under the floor. The main advantage of that is keeping the paint on the firewall intact. Brake fluid eats paint - and don't even consider silicone brake fluid - that adds to a street driven cars problems. (I already hear the detractors gnashing their teeth, but experience has given me a real hate for the stuff)

The disadvantages of a MC below the floor are that you will need to plumb in a pair of residual pressure valves and it is a PITA to check and fill.

My dad & I built this car back in the 80's. For whatever reason, we opted to put the MC on the firewall back then. It works fine but you're right, not only does the brake fluid eat up the paint, but it just doesn't look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. Obviously, before I can install that, I must put the MC back under the floor, which means buying the pedal/MC/booster kit from one of the ebay suppliers or other sources. It can't all happen at once because the well is running dry with this engine build, but it's all on the "list".......damn, maybe I should have stuck to building model cars instead of real ones! LOL! I love it though.

[Irelands child]

[QUOTE=randyr]look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.

[MikeB]

Irelands child
"and don't even consider silicone brake fluid - that adds to a street driven cars problems. (I already hear the detractors gnashing their teeth, but experience has given me a real hate for the stuff)"

Why not silicone, what was your experience. I've read good and bad and was planning on using silicone brake fluid in my '56 F100, you've put doubts in my head.

Thanks and sorry 'bout the hijack.

[randyr]

[QUOTE=Irelands child]

look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.

hmmmm - I wasn't sure I wanted to give up the extra 2" of legroom. My original firewall was notched enough to clear the valve covers and I need to remeasure to be sure but I think the notch is 3" or less. It seems to be adequate but I'll give the 5" some thought.......do you know who supplies Bob Drake reproductions with their firewalls? They're about $25-40 cheaper than the other two but they don't state what guage steel they're using in the ad. That would be a good question to ask. I've ordered other parts from them that seem to work well.

Direct Sheetmetal is only a couple of hours from me. I could pick it up and save the shipping but I have to pay sales tax since it's in state. Maybe I should order from an out of state supplier.....not that I'm trying to cheat Arnold out of any tax revenue or anything.....LOL!

[randyr]

[QUOTE=Irelands child]

look so hot either. The firewall has been cut many ways and needs to be replaced. I'm looking at the ones from Direct Sheetmetal, Bitchin & Bob Drake reproductions, all with the 3"recess for small block engines. QUOTE]

I have used and like the Bitchin' and Direct Sheetmetal products. And suggest you get the big block firewall. It gives you a bit more room to work without crowding everything down around the engine. Mine is a Brookville and it came with a 3" recess, regardless of the fact I ordered a 5". I needed the extra 2 inches because TCI set my engine mounts back too far and mods had to be made to the firewall to fit. But that's another (long) story.

Hey Dave,
I think you're right about getting the big block firewall. I just got thru measuring my sadly cut up & modified original firewall and it is recessed almost 4" at the deepest part. It would certainly be better to have an extra inch in the engine bay than to be short one, you know? LOL! I also found a couple of cracks in my X-member that will need to be repaired. Wish I could spring for the TCI chassis but just can't do it right now. Will have to make this one safe in the meantime and save for the TCI swap in the future.
Here's a link to a nice 37 with a 5" setback firewall. http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/Minshew-01.html
Hope all is well on your side of the world....
Randy

[randyr]

Oh, are you from Ireland or what's the origin of your user name?

Just curious as I have friends in Dublin. I want to go visit them someday....

[Irelands child]

Oh, are you from Ireland or what's the origin of your user name?

Just curious as I have friends in Dublin. I want to go visit them someday....

Not from Ireland but am mostly Irish and travel there fairly regularly. I had a group of field construction engineers from there working for me plus I worked there for a short time installing a power plant in the late '80's. Great place to go - and of course to have a Guinness or several. Dublin's a great place as is the rest of the country - even the North. And they still (mostly) like us, as long as you aren't an "ugly American" and try to fit in with the local folks. My wife "hung" my name on me.

[Irelands child]

Mike,
Did you leave the MC on the firewall or tuck it down on the frame? If it is still on the firewall, you can fill it with a turkey baster instead of directly out of the can. I bought a remote fill for mine that I probably wont use because of possible splatter. It will be mounted with the fill hose disappearing in the general direction of the MC and tie wrapped off. I do understand about a too expensive a paint job. Mine is not painted yet (April)and I already have $1000+ in materials plus a new $500 Iwata spray gun.

[MikeB]

Dave,
I put the MC on the firewall for a couple of reasons.
1 - Had a Chevelle front clip put on and boxed the frame.
2 - Wanted a hanging pedal to better seal the floor.
3 - Wanted a power booster for the Wilwood calipers on the Jag rear and yet to be determined front calipers. I want Wilwood calipers there too but have not put out the $$ yet.

Attached is a picture of the booster without the MC.

[Irelands child]

Dave,
I put the MC on the firewall for a couple of reasons.
1 - Had a Chevelle front clip put on and boxed the frame.
2 - Wanted a hanging pedal to better seal the floor.
3 - Wanted a power booster for the Wilwood calipers on the Jag rear and yet to be determined front calipers. I want Wilwood calipers there too but have not put out the $$ yet.

Attached is a picture of the booster without the MC.

Looks great - and a Ford in a Ford !! Way ta go

Why not consider Wilwoods all the way around, including a nice Wilwood aluminum MC. With the booster "hung" out there, you should not have a problem with drool out of the back of the MC.

I have 4 wheel Wilwoods on mine - polished in the front and black in the back (which I actually prefer), but with a 'vette MC.

[Dave Severson]

Randy, I've used a couple of the tubular type tranny coolers on projects, they seem to do an adequate job of tranny cooling. Main reason for me using them was to leave the front of the radiator open for engine cooling, and just keep some of the "uglies" off the front of the car!!!!

[randyr]

Hey Dave,
That interior is beautiful, man! I like the simple design. The flashy stuff starts to look dated really quickly. This will look great for years.

Anyway, what kinda starter are you running? Will it eliminate the additional solenoid on the firewall? Is the smaller starter required for the FF1 headers?

Hope all is well on your side of the world. Happy Friday!
Randy

[Irelands child]

Randy,
Thanks for the kind words on the interior - I went to visit my uphosterer yesterday just as a reminder he needs to finish the seats. By May!!

I still owe you some painting information - soon

The starter is the Ford Racing M-11000-A50 Hi-torque (don't think you need the -B50 super high torque unit) and is a fair bit smaller. There is ~7.5 inches between the mounting flange and the headers, giving only about .750 clearance to the header collector (the starter body is ~6.750, mtg flange to tip). While I didn't try one of the old starters that I had, I'm pretty sure it would not fit. Probably one of the small later model 5.0/5.7 OEMs would though, but why not just start with a new one. You will need a late model solenoid though, but the correct one is about 1/2 the size of the old style.

We are scheduled for 1 to 2 FEET of snow in the next 24 or so hours - and it was 68 shirt sleeve degrees here on Wednesday. Happy spring in the Great Northeast - but Sat. is St Paddy's day and a couple of pints of Guinness and/or a wee dram of John Jameson's favorite distillate will cure the snowy blues.

[randyr]

Randy,
Thanks for the kind words on the interior - I went to visit my uphosterer yesterday just as a reminder he needs to finish the seats. By May!!

I still owe you some painting information - soon

The starter is the Ford Racing M-11000-A50 Hi-torque (don't think you need the -B50 super high torque unit) and is a fair bit smaller. There is ~7.5 inches between the mounting flange and the headers, giving only about .750 clearance to the header collector (the starter body is ~6.750, mtg flange to tip). While I didn't try one of the old starters that I had, I'm pretty sure it would not fit. Probably one of the small later model 5.0/5.7 OEMs would though, but why not just start with a new one. You will need a late model solenoid though, but the correct one is about 1/2 the size of the old style.

We are scheduled for 1 to 2 FEET of snow in the next 24 or so hours - and it was 68 shirt sleeve degrees here on Wednesday. Happy spring in the Great Northeast - but Sat. is St Paddy's day and a couple of pints of Guinness and/or a wee dram of John Jameson's favorite distillate will cure the snowy blues.

2 FEET???? Yikes! and I was pissed because it's kinda gloomy & mid 60's here! LOL! I like warm weather. But you're right, nothing like a few Irish "spirits" to warm the cockels....

So, I don't really understand this solenoid business....I spoke to a fella this morning who sells a Ford mini pmgr gear reduction starter that has a solenoid on it. They include an adapter kit to attach it to my existing solenoid or he said I could eliminate the firewall solenoid by attaching the starter switch to the correct terminal on the starter solenoid. Does that make sense to you? I'm just trying cut down on all the extra stuff that is normally cluttering up the firewall, you know? Especially since I'm putting in a new one!

Hope you enjoy the snow and that it melts quickly.....

Later,
Randy