37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[Don Shillady]

IC2, can you show a picture or two of the wiring to inspire me? I am still working on the problem of raising the water pump mechanical fan with the Zip mount and my wiring loom is still on the front seat. For Randy, I see some familiar old sheet metal from the days when I cut the top off a '40 Tudor and mounted a floorless '40 convertible body on the Tudor floor in which I kept the lower edges of the quarter panels and inner fender wells in the back. At that time I just could not afford to go further and sold the unfinished combination but I wish I had it back when I see that old Ford metal.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[IC2]

IC2, can you show a picture or two of the wiring to inspire me? I am still working on the problem of raising the water pump mechanical fan with the Zip mount and my wiring loom is still on the front seat. For Randy, I see some familiar old sheet metal from the days when I cut the top off a '40 Tudor and mounted a floorless '40 convertible body on the Tudor floor in whuch I kept the lower edges of the quarter panels and inner fender wells in the back. At that time I just could not afford to go further and sold the unfinished combination but I wish I had it back when I see that old Ford metal.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Does this help, Don?? There will be more coming in a few days - honest!!

(Open the Photo Bucket photo to see how it all started

[Don Shillady]

IC2, very nice work. I can't remove my dash but the center panel does come out. I recall the old routine of on-the-back-upside-down from a '47 dash I worked on but that finally came out so I could put it on a bench. So far I just cannot visualize how to put the wires in but I think once I start it will make more sense.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[IC2]

Don,
Some times this site makes me wonder - it "ate" my yesterday's response

With your insert coming out the gauges should be fairly easy to wire. You just don't have the luxury of posting here while you are wiring the dash like I have I am all to well aware of the "head-under-the dash-arms entangled-in pedals-legs-dangling-over-the-seat"syndrome along with tomorrows' pain that goes with it. Hopefully your wiring "kit" has fairly good instructions or at least a useable schematic. My American Autowire kit has an over all schematic as well as a system schematic plus individual component directions - almost too much information

I have two sub panels that are not in the picture - one with the ignition, headlight and wiper switches that will be visible and a second hidden with a DPDT to choose the fluid temp indication - coolant or transmission.

[randyr]

Well, Dave I finally finished up retrofitting my door latches and jambs to accomodate the bearclaw latches. You may recall I had to rebuild part of the jamb which my dad had modified for an old GM style latch years ago. With a thin coat of filler I think they'll look pretty good and will hopefully hold the doors on tight.....LOL!

My goal is to get this thing media blasted before the end of July then find somebody to shoot it with epoxy primer.......woohoo!!

What's new on yours?


Don, I'm glad you're enjoying the "old Ford metal memories". The project you were undertaking back then with the convertible/tudor merger sounds pretty major and totally out of my league....LOL! especially in my cramped little one-car garage! Yikes! But the beach is only a mile away which makes it all seem okay....


Later,
Randy

[IC2]

Randy,
It's really looking good now. Very nice clean installation on those bear claws.

(July - hmmmmmm )

Mine - between honey do's/home and vehicle maintenance, my wiring is progressing albeit slowly. I'll be finishing up the starter circuit today then on to the front end wires from the headlights and engine compartment - probably tomorrow (assuming I catch a break in between rain showers and finish the lawn mowing). I have to hang my fenders, hopefully this weekend - but that shouldn't be a big problem.

[randyr]

So I'm trying to get the hood to fit better. It seems that the center point of the grill is a little high and thus causes a little extra gap on the sides of the hood. There is also too much gap at back of the hood on each side. I'm going to try to get more adjustment out of the hinges but if that doesn't work, what are my alternatives?? I've seen people weld on a small piece to fill a gap but I don't know that I'm good enough to do that........if you have any thoughts, please let me know....
Thanks.
Randy

[IC2]

Randy,
I see what you mean about the hood. I don't recall how bad my '37's were back in time - 40 years or so ago. I don't believe that there is much in the way of adjustment.

To fix that problem, and you should first of all take a look at the rubber frame to body pads to see if they have "disappeared". Mac's lists them as part number 78-5001. Then the next thing would be to realign the front sheet metal. If you look at your pictures, the body itself appears to be low at the cowl orthe front sheet metal is high. Myself, I would loosen the body to frame bolts, replace the rubber mounts then finish with some B-5000-SHK shims. Reassemble with some new bolts, 78-5000MB The engine is or will be out anyhow so it should be reasonably straight forward (note - I didn't say easy ). This will also tend to pull your hood back where it belongs as well Heck, it's "only" another project to eat your time (and money)

[randyr]

Randy,
I see what you mean about the hood. I don't recall how bad my '37's were back in time - 40 years or so ago. I don't believe that there is much in the way of adjustment.

To fix that problem, and you should first of all take a look at the rubber frame to body pads to see if they have "disappeared". Mac's lists them as part number 78-5001. Then the next thing would be to realign the front sheet metal. If you look at your pictures, the body itself appears to be low at the cowl orthe front sheet metal is high. Myself, I would loosen the body to frame bolts, replace the rubber mounts then finish with some B-5000-SHK shims. Reassemble with some new bolts, 78-5000MB The engine is or will be out anyhow so it should be reasonably straight forward (note - I didn't say easy ). This will also tend to pull your hood back where it belongs as well Heck, it's "only" another project to eat your time (and money)

Thanks Dave. We put all new body pads in the car when we built it in the 80's. The ones I've seen with replacing the floor were still in good shape though I understand it might be a good time to put in new ones since I'm "this close" to having the body off anyway. Before I do all that I'm going to loosen the front sheet metal again and see what kind of movement I can get there. I was reading on another site to make the hood fit the cowl, then adjust everything else to fit. The hinges have slotted holes where they bolt on to the body for a little bit of adjustment. I think there's always been a bit of a gap that I just lived with but since I'm doing everything else to the car, I wanna fix that too....

Will keep you posted......

Later,
Randy

[IC2]

Randy,
Your first and third photos are the 'telling' ones. While the rubbers may still be in good shape, you may just need to shim the front of body up a bit. The third photo shows the hood projecting out a little with the gap at the back to the cowl closed at the top while open at the bottom. Of course when you get those pieces fitted right, then you have to worry about the hood sides .

I think that Ford made two cars worse then the '37 for front sheet metal alignment - the '33/34 and the '40 deluxe.

My starter wiring is FINALLY finished - about 10 minutes ago. With the brake and gas (SS flex for the gas) line placement and the fact that I have a rear sway bar, it needed to be clamped pretty tightly to prevent chafing - then add the fact that these tired bones don't move so easily while under a car any more...........

Now - off to find a coffee pot and some more black 12ga wiring - NAPA?? Probably

[randyr]

Ok Dave, I just went ahead and ordered new body pads, bolts & shims from Mac's.....LOL! Heck, I'm this close, I might as well jack it up and put new ones in there! Besides, it'll be much easier to undercoat the body while I have it jacked up! It's only time & money right??!!! Yikes!

[IC2]

Ok Dave, I just went ahead and ordered new body pads, bolts & shims from Mac's.....LOL! Heck, I'm this close, I might as well jack it up and put new ones in there! Besides, it'll be much easier to undercoat the body while I have it jacked up! It's only time & money right??!!! Yikes!

Do I detect some finger pointing and a suggestion that I might be partially the cause of your continued pain

Heck, someone else has to be having as much fun as I am thinning out that ugly green papery stuff from my left rear pocket.

NOW - I need more wire so off I go to burn another gallon or so of $4.12 gas

[randyr]

Do I detect some finger pointing and a suggestion that I might be partially the cause of your continued pain

Heck, someone else has to be having as much fun as I am thinning out that ugly green papery stuff from my left rear pocket.

NOW - I need more wire so off I go to burn another gallon or so of $4.12 gas

Green papery stuff? Mine seems to be made of plastic....LOL!

Enjoy that "cheap" gas......out here the "cheap stuff" is $4.59!!!

[IC2]

Time to resurrect this thread - again.

My car - the engine - it runs

2:15 today, first fire. Nasty mean rumble/idle. Really quick throttle response I still need to touch up the timing and idle adjustment, but have to fix the transmission leak and complete the fill first so I can let it run more then a couple of minutes

[randyr]

Time to resurrect this thread - again.

My car - the engine - it runs

2:15 today, first fire. Nasty mean rumble/idle. Really quick throttle response I still need to touch up the timing and idle adjustment, but have to fix the transmission leak and complete the fill first so I can let it run more then a couple of minutes

Congrats Dave!!! That's inspirational.....I'm going to get a few hours in on mine this afternoon. Will let you know what I accomplish.

Any pics of yours full assembled yet or were you firing it up without fenders?