37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[Don Shillady]

Neat '37, where do you guys find these real steel Fords? I know, I know they are out there but a little expensive. I almost bought a '41 Merc convertible but the complete middle of the X-member was rusted away. I know, all I needed was another donor frame etc. Anyway the coupe is the same age as me and about in the same shape; still rolling but missing a few body parts! Good luck with it. If I had it I would still take the resto rod approach because that is a very nice shape as is without a chop; just add a modern drive line and restore the body, but that is just my opinion.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[bluestang67]

Don your right on its look with out a chop these roof lines are nice as is . Also like full hoods and fenders on cars . It is a complete car with title I hate chasing parts and never want to experience having to get one plated . I have a look in my head on how i want it to sit . These 35 thru 37s are starting there up climb so I am lucky to get in on the bottom . I will be researching soon on what I need to get it lower . This has late 40s early 50s Hudson tail lights also they look good . M ll front and a sping kit for back maybe . Here is frame and drive train in it as it sits now .

[34_40]

Don your right on its look with out a chop these roof lines are nice as is . Also like full hoods and fenders on cars . It is a complete car with title I hate chasing parts and never want to experience having to get one plated . I have a look in my head on how i want it to sit . These 35 thru 37s are starting there up climb so I am lucky to get in on the bottom . I will be researching soon on what I need to get it lower . This has late 40s early 50s Hudson tail lights also they look good . M ll front and a sping kit for back maybe . Here is frame and drive train in it as it sits now .

Bluestang, That's quite a car! Does the chassis look like the picture? All shiny and with those great wheels/tires? I can't wait to see it as you envision it!

I crawled around my car and found a bad connection at the fuse panel. Of course I was to stubburn and kept blaming the relay even after I tested it on the bench and could make it work perfectly! So it took 10 times longer than it should've but in the end it works like it should, the thermostatic switch turns fan on and off, so alls well that ends well, even if it was self inflicted!

[randyr]

Great car, Bobby! I prefer my car to be fully fendered & hooded too, though there are some pretty cool fenderless rides out there. You can Google 37 Ford and come up with all kinds of sites to get ideas from. Also, places like http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/ keep a good photo-log of their projects. You can get a lot of good ideas from places like that too.

Keep us posted on your process and of course, let us know if we can help.

Mike, I'm glad you figured out your fan issues. Your method of taking 10 times longer sounds similar to the way things work for me....

[IC2]

Great car, Bobby! I prefer my car to be fully fendered & hooded too, though there are some pretty cool fenderless rides out there. You can Google 37 Ford and come up with all kinds of sites to get ideas from. Also, places like http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/ keep a good photo-log of their projects. You can get a lot of good ideas from places like that too.

Keep us posted on your process and of course, let us know if we can help.

Mike, I'm glad you figured out your fan issues. Your method of taking 10 times longer sounds similar to the way things work for me....

Bobby - how about some sort of journal or at least photos so I can be jealous during your build

FWIW - '37 Fords without fenders and hoods look like they are incomplete - but then that's only MY opinion, and have often eaten my shoe when confronted. I too have had a love affair with '37s, and probably explained above/way back. Both runners. my first one - a hump, I paid $8.00. The second, a club coupe, I paid $50 and of course sold them both for a "huge" profit, but not as much as the $40 I made on the '32 3 window.

Wiring issues - I 'fixed' my speedometer problem. I took it out 2-3 weeks ago, put it on the shelf for later. Later came yesterday, so I re installed it without doing a thing - and now it's fine!!!!

Now - if I could only fix my forever leaky C4. Gut feel is that I might have a cracked case along side of one of the rear pan bolts, but I can't see any cracks. Four pan gaskets later!! I need to get the car just a bit higher to see, but that's a 'punch list' item - and a pan and absorbent pig pad 'til then. This 'fix' might take a whole tube of J-B weld to fix!!!

[34_40]

Wiring issues - I 'fixed' my speedometer problem. I took it out 2-3 weeks ago, put it on the shelf for later. Later came yesterday, so I re installed it without doing a thing - and now it's fine!!!!

Now - if I could only fix my forever leaky C4. Gut feel is that I might have a cracked case along side of one of the rear pan bolts, but I can't see any cracks. Four pan gaskets later!! I need to get the car just a bit higher to see, but that's a 'punch list' item - and a pan and absorbent pig pad 'til then. This 'fix' might take a whole tube of J-B weld to fix!!!

IC2, curious how you knew your speedometer had a problem? Had you taken it for a ride? Or did you jack up the rear wheels and place the tranny in drive?

[IC2]

IC2, curious how you knew your speedometer had a problem? Had you taken it for a ride? Or did you jack up the rear wheels and place the tranny in drive?

Neither - it pegged all the way over and wouldn't return. The needle only came back halfway, then fluctuated between 90 and 120 several times, then locked at 90 when I turned off the key and powered down. I blipped the key a couple of times, and finally it drifted back to 0 mph. VDO's are supposed to peg on initial power up, then put a digital message on the trip odometer, return to zero, then the odometer is to read .0 miles. It now does but still needs final road calibration, but that means driving the car - soon. There was nothing changed in that circuit!!!!

This speedo is a gadget at about $100/copy I didn't want to wreck so yanked it while I was doing some other running and wiring checks. It seems fine now, but why???? (That's some of the basis for my 'Electricals - Phew' thread)

[34_40]

Neither - it pegged all the way over and wouldn't return. The needle only came back halfway, then fluctuated between 90 and 120 several times, then locked at 90 when I turned off the key and powered down. I blipped the key a couple of times, and finally it drifted back to 0 mph. VDO's are supposed to peg on initial power up, then put a digital message on the trip odometer, return to zero, then the odometer is to read .0 miles. It now does but still needs final road calibration, but that means driving the car - soon. There was nothing changed in that circuit!!!!

This speedo is a gadget at about $100/copy I didn't want to wreck so yanked it while I was doing some other running and wiring checks. It seems fine now, but why???? (That's some of the basis for my 'Electricals - Phew' thread)

AH! I see! I have an electric speedo also. But I don't remember the directions saying anything about the needle getting pegged. Glad to learn that it's working now and a "ROAD TEST" is in the near future! WOO HOOO!

[IC2]

AH! I see! I have an electric speedo also. But I don't remember the directions saying anything about the needle getting pegged. Glad to learn that it's working now and a "ROAD TEST" is in the near future! WOO HOOO!

Depends on the brand of speedo - the Classics in my last car - bolted in place, went for a drive, then spent 2 hours trying to figure the right dip switch configuration (never was within 5 mph).

I'm cleaning up the dash wiring today as well as installing the tach adapter (@#$% MSD ignitions) - those nylon wire ties have about caused exsanguination from all the nicks and gouges on my hands

[34_40]

Depends on the brand of speedo - the Classics in my last car - bolted in place, went for a drive, then spent 2 hours trying to figure the right dip switch configuration (never was within 5 mph).

I'm cleaning up the dash wiring today as well as installing the tach adapter (@#$% MSD ignitions) - those nylon wire ties have about caused exsanguination from all the nicks and gouges on my hands

I've got "It's a Snap" gauges, streamliner I think the called them. I'm supposed to push the settings button then drive a measured mile, them push the button again. This tells the speedo how many pulses in a mile. We'll see how good it works. I'll try and change a picture size and post one of my dash.

[Don Shillady]

34-40, Tell me more about whatever you do with the electrical stuff since I also have the complete It's-a-Snap wiring as well as the gauges. Any pictures will be appreciated.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

[bluestang67]

Mike that is the frame the car is sitting on , it is a amateur restore but it looks very clean in pic . I think i payed a fair price for its condition and where it sits complete and a title . Pic on page 26 on the frame . Was more then $8 dollars though LOL

Randy thanks for the link i have searched up and down just looking at the moment . The stance though is burned in my head , i can shut my eye's and see it . It makes it so much easier when a identical build is on line helps a lot .

Dave electricals is going to be my night mare here . I can sheet metal , brush on some paint but have shyed away from these repairs as much as possible .

[34_40]

34-40, Tell me more about whatever you do with the electrical stuff since I also have the complete It's-a-Snap wiring as well as the gauges. Any pictures will be appreciated.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don, I only used the Streamliner gauges from It's a Snap, my wiring "kit" is from Ron Francis. What questions do you have? I've never used "Snaps" wiring "kit". I'm known by my car friends to be in my "element" when it comes to playin' with circuits. Naturally we'll help all we can. Not sure how this pic will come out, I don't play enough with computers so we'll see if I cropped it enough.

[Don Shillady]

34-40, That is OK, send whatever pictures you can. I am currently muddeling through installation of the fuel line and rearranging the transmission cooler lines to my Walker radiator. I have been putting off the electrical part as much as possible while I install as many mechanical things as possible but I will have to get on the electrical problem soon, so at your convenience send what pictures you have on the electrical installation to give me ideas. At this point I would like to see pictures of anyone who has used the hard lines to the radiator transmission cooler since the area around the fuel pump in the forward right side is very busy already and it will be hard to thread another tube line through there. I also have a problem in that the B&M tranmission temperature gauge has a white face while my It's-A-Snap instruments have an antique face so at this point I am not sure where to put the trans temp gauge so it will not contrast with the other instruments. The picture I am going to show is before I installed the heater under the dash so the right side of the dash has a radio and a switch for the heater. I could fit in the transmission temperature gauge if I redrill the ignition switch hole and move it but then the white face of that gauge will not match the antique face of the It's-A-Snap gauges. No problem just let me see a few pictures of your electrical installation when you can.

Don ShilladyRetired Scientist/teen rodder

[randyr]

Hey Bobby,

Here's a couple more 37 Ford links for ya...

http://www.srbymichael.com/construct...is/lewis.shtml

http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/Minshew-01.html