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Thread: 37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads
          
   
   

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  1. #106
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr
    Hey Dave,
    Where did you get all your braided steel lines (trans, fuel, etc)?

    Randy
    Randy,
    Most of the pieces came from Summit - they are a combination of Earl's, Russell(Edelbrock), and Aeroquip. Then they were self made up and I have the scars on my finger tips to prove it !! Every line is either SS or SS braided(except for the AC - they are just too expensive that way). The vacuum lines were only clamped in place with AN appearing covers.

    Trans lines can be also bought from an outfit called Gotta Show but are a lot more expensive then home made. The brake lines and fittings were from Pure Choice with the exception of the braided flex hoses. Russells appear to be the only DOT approved hose vendor that I could find and NY can be difficult here.

    A couple of suppliers have some pretty good instruction sheets if you have never done AN lines - it's an interesting and sometimes painfull process, to say the least.
    Dave

  2. #107
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesals
    you can fit up 95-01 cobra rear discs on that car.. the kit is designed for an 8" rear but will fit a 9" as well.... its made by www.vintagevenom.com you'll then be able to run 11inch rotars in the rear with the internal drums for the E-brake, you will have to still setup a cable and everything, but its a nice way to go.... the only downside is you would have to run later model cobra rims
    You run into the pre '64 assembly problem here as well with brackets. Randy has a '58 which takes some mods to fit.

    It is a nice kit though and with a good price.

    Wheels shouldn't be a problem on his '37 as his '58 diff has a 5x4.5" wheel bolt circle. My 12" rear Wilwoods had wheel ID problem with the e brake caliper but I am using the old Airheart type. But it became a good excuse to get bigger wheels (17") for the rear (and spend another $900 !!!).

    This is my set up:
    Attached Images
    Dave

  3. #108
    randyr's Avatar
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    Ok, here's a better link to look at the disc brake kit from Steel Tech Solutions which the guy sells on ebay for $499...
    http://steeltechsolutions.com/RDBINSTRWORKPAGE.html

    Still no word on whether ebay or paypal is going to have any effect on the other deadbeat seller who has my money! Argh!

  4. #109
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Randy
    Not bad looking plus a pretty good write up by the seller. There is really nothing mystical about rear discs - as long as you have a good bracket and a rotor that fits and all lines up. I still suggest a search on the GM integral e brake tho to get a handle on their effectiveness. Or doesn't CA care?

    Keep chasing PayPal - they are supposed to "guarantee" up to $2000 if I have read my account right.
    Dave

  5. #110
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    yes they do garauntee it..... but you know how any financial agency is..... they'll take your money all day long, but they make it very difficult to get any money
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  6. #111
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thesals
    yes they do garauntee it..... but you know how any financial agency is..... they'll take your money all day long, but they make it very difficult to get any money
    Which is why I suggested to Randy to give them 2-3 e mail chances then do the "litigation test" by suggesting that a lawyer might speed things along.
    Dave

  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irelands child
    Which is why I suggested to Randy to give them 2-3 e mail chances then do the "litigation test" by suggesting that a lawyer might speed things along.

    Of course, the big "hitch" here is that you have to report the problem to Paypal within 45 days of the payment. I didn't know that and I think it was 47 or 48 days. They may have me on a technicality but I'm waiting to hear back from them. I was continuing to trust that the seller was telling me the truth about the snowstorms & his father being in ICU, etc. Shoot me for trying to take somebody at their word!! Geez!

    Ebay said they are trying to contact the seller but can't really do much since the actual sale, even though it was sparked by an ebay auction, actually occurred apart from ebay. They suggested contacting the police in the area as well and agreed to cooperate fully with them. They won't give me any personal information about the seller though.

    We'll see what happens. In the meantime, I don't have rear discs.....but then I don't have the engine in the car either, so brakes aren't the biggest problem right now! LOL!

    I will check out the effectiveness of the GM Caddy ebrake. You'd think if they were using this on the big Caddies, it must be pretty good....or at least it would work fine on a 2800lb Ford, right?

    Happy Easter to you guys!!!
    Later,
    Randy

  8. #113
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    Randy,
    You can use this as the search phrase in Google or Yahoo - "Problems With GM Emergency Brakes". This will bring up 659,000 hits to look at. This is a pretty good one to read: http://classicbroncos.com/reardiscs.shtml . It looks like GM has mega problems with the later vehicles and with the earlier cars, rust, wear and adjustment are the culprits.

    Have a good hoppin' weekend.
    Dave

  9. #114
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    i can attest that those gm caliper spring ebrakes are junk in my opinion, i've seen all sorts of crap wrong with them the few years i've been working as a mechanic..... the biggest problem is that they wont release and cause the e-brake to be stuck on.... thats why i reccomended the ford style discs with inner drums....... they seem to be the less problematic e-brake setup i've seen for rear discs, the only issue i have with them is that they are a major pain to work on because they sit under the axel hub
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

  10. #115
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    Hey Dave,
    Here's a pic of how my engine is shaping up....when I finish getting my frame cleaned up a bit and repainted, I'll put it back in. Can't wait to fire it up!
    Attached Images

  11. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irelands child
    Randy,
    Most of the pieces came from Summit - they are a combination of Earl's, Russell(Edelbrock), and Aeroquip. Then they were self made up and I have the scars on my finger tips to prove it !! Every line is either SS or SS braided(except for the AC - they are just too expensive that way). The vacuum lines were only clamped in place with AN appearing covers.

    Trans lines can be also bought from an outfit called Gotta Show but are a lot more expensive then home made. The brake lines and fittings were from Pure Choice with the exception of the braided flex hoses. Russells appear to be the only DOT approved hose vendor that I could find and NY can be difficult here.

    A couple of suppliers have some pretty good instruction sheets if you have never done AN lines - it's an interesting and sometimes painfull process, to say the least.
    Yeah, I could probably use a tutorial on working with AN lines, etc. and the braided stuff can be challenging, too. My only experience with the stuff has been cutting a Lokar throttle cable to length. I found it hard to get a clean cut without all the fraying. Wrapping tape around the area to be cut was helpful but maybe I didn't wrap it tight enough. At any rate, it looks pretty cool in the pics.

  12. #117
    Irelands child's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr
    Hey Dave,
    Here's a pic of how my engine is shaping up....when I finish getting my frame cleaned up a bit and repainted, I'll put it back in. Can't wait to fire it up!
    Really great looking engine - should be a nice runner as well. With my normal 20-20 hindsight I should have built one of my 351's.

    I've been waiting 4 years to start mine - if I hadn't sold my standard 302Duraspark dist and box would have done it already. The MSD is a PITA to 'jumper' start. Soon though. I do have a Duraspark 351 dist from an earlier car, but it's too long for a 302 plus the drive is 5/15 vs 1/4

    AN lines are a "delight" to work with. A 32 tooth hack saw blade work or a cut off wheel works plus a Koul Tool will make it easier ( http://www.koultools.com/ )
    unless you really like bloody finger tips and torn nails
    Dave

  13. #118
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    Hey Dave,
    Here's a question for ya.....I finally fired up my new welder yesterday....yeah, I know, what took so long, right? Just been too busy with other stuff....anyway, it came with a hand-held eye protector. I haven't bought a welding helmet yet cause I'm too cheap and looking for a great deal...LOL...in the meantime, will the goggles from my acetelene welder work for mig welding?
    Will give more of an update on the car after while. Thanks.
    Randy

  14. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr
    Hey Dave,
    Here's a question for ya.....I finally fired up my new welder yesterday....yeah, I know, what took so long, right? Just been too busy with other stuff....anyway, it came with a hand-held eye protector. I haven't bought a welding helmet yet cause I'm too cheap and looking for a great deal...LOL...in the meantime, will the goggles from my acetelene welder work for mig welding?
    Will give more of an update on the car after while. Thanks.
    Randy
    Randy,
    You're up early today!!

    In one word NO. You not only need eye protection but skin protection from the UV emissions from the arc. I do not believe that the gas goggles are more then an 8 or 9 for light tranmission level. For arc welding safety you need at least a 10, and a 12 is better. The idiots you see on car and bike shows are dumb to even tack weld w/o a shield.
    One eyeball "sunburn" is a real wake up - been there with a very minor one years ago. Take a walk down to the beach, pick up a handful of sand and throw it in your eyes and leave it there for a day or two - this will give you a general idea of the discomfort level. Be real careful on EvilBay - some of those hoods offered aren't too good.

    The hand held mask they give you, as far as I'm concerned is junk and is only good enough to hold while watching someone else weld. You need a self darkening hood, either UV(arc) activated or battery activated in about 1/25,000 of a second for safety. The one I have is a UV, fairly low end, but since I'm not doing this for a living is fine - and as a matter of fact I have it on right now since I've been welding up some hood latch holes this morning. You also need good long gauntlet welding gloves - welded steel gets real hot .

    I had planned on painting the end of the week with my wife in Merrie Olde England for 8-9 days visiting kid(daughter) #4 and grandchildren, but if you turn on the Weather Channel, you can get an idea of the conditions we've had .
    Dave

  15. #120
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    Thanks for the advice! I used the hand-held thing for a while yesterday and I suppose it served it's purpose but it's definitely a pain in the butt to try to hold it and weld at the same time. I have some good welding gloves and I'm pretty cautious with stuff.....however, I was wearing some ripped up jeans and looked down to see how easily they catch on fire!! Yikes!! No harm done though. Probably would have been funny to an onlooker.....LOL!

    Home Despot has a self darkening helmet for $100.....I see various ones on Ebay for $29-$300 so I guess it just depends on how much one wants to spend....I too am leary of many of the "great deals" on ebay!

    You'll be happy to know I finished my taxes on Saturday! Woohoo! and I don't have to pay! double WooHoo!

    I hope you get a break in the weather so you can do some painting. Tell me again what color you're painting the car.....

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