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Thread: 37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads
          
   
   

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  1. #1306
    406Rich's Avatar
    406Rich is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: `37 Ford Bus Coupe
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    Happy Thanks Giving to all of you and yours.....and especially to those that are serving our country......
    Toys
    `37 Ford Coupe
    `64 Chevy Fleet side
    `69 RS/SS
    `68 Dodge Dart
    Kids in the back seat may cause accidents, accidents in the back seat may cause kids, so no back seat, no accidents...!

  2. #1307
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    Randy running threw some build log pics I ran up on your 69 302 with GT40P heads . Do you remember your push rod length that you used .

    I have the exact engine in the 31 and the only thing keeping me from firing it is the push rods . I have a couple different length rods laying around and don't want to install the wrong ones . Ford should have just made the 302 standard length .

    I didn't get the one's with this engine but I have some that are 7.030 .

  3. #1308
    randyr's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluestang67 View Post
    Randy running threw some build log pics I ran up on your 69 302 with GT40P heads . Do you remember your push rod length that you used .

    I have the exact engine in the 31 and the only thing keeping me from firing it is the push rods . I have a couple different length rods laying around and don't want to install the wrong ones . Ford should have just made the 302 standard length .

    I didn't get the one's with this engine but I have some that are 7.030 .
    Hey Bobby,
    I looked through my receipts and it appears that I ordered new ones from Summit, part#CCA-7828-16, 6.936" in length. It appears from the paperwork that I returned a set that were 6.95 because they were too long. I didn't assemble the engine myself but I was supplying all the parts. I had a professional shop do it. I also used aftermarket roller rockers instead of the factory ones from the GT40P heads. Hope that helps!
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  4. #1309
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    Randy Thanks this will get me started . I went to Winners Circle and got the tool to check it . They like Chevys the most but have the Ford stuff also .
    Last edited by bluestang67; 11-25-2011 at 06:54 PM.

  5. #1310
    randyr's Avatar
    randyr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford tudor humpback
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    Ok, so I told you guys I was going to take advantage of the neighbors being gone this weekend. I finished prepping the fenders, hood, hood sides, deck lid and inner fenders for primer yesterday and today. I pushed the car out and hung them up for a trial run. Tomorrow I'll wipe them down with SPI Wax & Grease remover then shoot a couple of coats of SPI Epoxy primer. Can't wait!!
    That last pic is from the car's POV. It's so excited it can't see straight!
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    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  6. #1311
    34_40's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Alright Randy! I'm excited for you! Looks a bit cramped in there with everything hanging. But, I'm sure you'll do fine!

    What happened to that last pic? It caused my eyes to spasm! LOL...

  7. #1312
    randyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    Alright Randy! I'm excited for you! Looks a bit cramped in there with everything hanging. But, I'm sure you'll do fine!

    What happened to that last pic? It caused my eyes to spasm! LOL...

    Well, not everybody can have a big old dance hall to build their car in!!

    Yes, it will be a dance weaving around the hanging body parts but the car will be outside during the process.

    As I posted, the last pic is from the '37's point of view....it's really excited to see progress on it's body parts!
    Actually, I snapped it looking thru the rear window of the car. It was already dark outside and the camera just kinda freaked out a little. I thought it was kinda artistic....or is that autistic??
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  8. #1313
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Actually, I snapped it looking thru the rear window of the car. I thought it was kinda artistic....or is that autistic??
    I think the latter fits best! Have fun today! We'll be thinking good thoughts for ya.

  9. #1314
    IC2
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    Randy -
    It sure will be nice to see some progress on that '37

    I hope you will be using at least a NIOSH N95 face mask to put that SPI epoxy on. You can thin it with some urethane paint reducer if necessary, too. STIR IT WELL.

    Here's the SPI tech manual JIC:http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...TechManual.pdf

    Now, off to work on some of the odds and ends mods I said I was doing on my car (put it away too soon - gonna be in the 60s again today)
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  10. #1315
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Always fun when it's time to have a good old fashioned hanging in the garage! Anxious to see the results, even just getting primer on parts always looks like you got a lot done....and nobody notices the countless hours of pinging and dinging that went into each panel before they got hung and primed!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  11. #1316
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    WooHoo!!! We have epoxy, gentlemen!!!

    I followed the advice of Shine from the SPI forum who is a big fan of SPI Epoxy and took all the parts outside and washed them down with Dawn and rinsed well with water. I thoroughly dried them, first with a clean towel, then air hose, then heat gun in the cracks & crevices. I hung them back up in the garage and wiped down with SPI's waterborne wax & grease remover, then shot 2 wet coats of epoxy. Sure there's a couple of runs while I was getting used to the gun and a little dust here & there but at least they are now protected and the games can begin!! Yay!!! I'm stoked!!!

    Now to let the dry enough to take them down and put the car back in the garage. Fortunately, it's a beautiful 76 degrees here today!
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    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  12. #1317
    IC2
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    Whooooopppeee !!!!!!!!!!!! Congratulations. Parts look pretty good.

    Nice thing with using SPI epoxy is that it is a sanding epoxy. You can easily (well, kinda easily) sand out those runs and dust then recoat. You can also do like Shine, use it exclusively as a build 2K instead of having another product to fool with. I prefer the high build as the epoxy gets really tough after a couple weeks - though you do need to do a full scuff if you wait 24-48 hours after application to put anything else on it, i.e. 2K/BC-CC
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  13. #1318
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Parts look great, Randy!!!! Think I'm going to switch to SPI when I'm done with what I have on hand now, everybody raves about the quality and durability!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  14. #1319
    randyr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    Whooooopppeee !!!!!!!!!!!! Congratulations. Parts look pretty good.

    Nice thing with using SPI epoxy is that it is a sanding epoxy. You can easily (well, kinda easily) sand out those runs and dust then recoat. You can also do like Shine, use it exclusively as a build 2K instead of having another product to fool with. I prefer the high build as the epoxy gets really tough after a couple weeks - though you do need to do a full scuff if you wait 24-48 hours after application to put anything else on it, i.e. 2K/BC-CC
    Yeah, Thanks, Dave, I think there are places on my fenders that are too rough to use the epoxy as the sole building source. I'll have to use a skim coat of filler and some high build 2K to get them really nice. I've been reading a lot on the SPI forum about all the do's & don'ts. I've been thinking about using the SPI bedliner as undercoating. At what point do you think I should spray that on? I'm guessing after I finish the body work but before I apply the BC/CC, right?

    -Other Dave, thanks for the kudos!! I've read a lot of great recommendations for the SPI products, include Dave's (IC2). This is the first time I've used the epoxy but given the reviews, I don't think I can go wrong with it.

    Feels great to make a little bit of a progress for a change. I hope the neighbors go out of town more often. As long as I can keep the SoCal clean air natzis away while I'm doing these little spray jobs, I'll be happy!
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  15. #1320
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    Well Alright Randy! They look great in the pic. Always a milestone when the primer goes on!

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