37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[randyr]

OK - with the floorboard hole hole for the shifter - if you know which bolt holes on the gold colored plate it will be finally mounted (may need the seats in) you have to start out with a center line of the shifter assembly and carefully measure it up. The actual hole for mine is is quite small, 3.250 long by 3.50 wide. See the photo (you will also get a chance to see some of my welds BEFORE I took a short course). The cheaper Lokar boot is too small to fit well. This entire process is touchy as centerlines are kinda tough to define.
The e-brake hole is that oblong hole next to the shifter hole

I also posed the same question about hole size for the shifter to Lokar....they just responded with the recommendation of using a 4" hole saw to cut the hole for the shifter. I don't know if I've seen a hole saw that big I guess it mostly depends on the type of shifter boot I decide on.....

[Irelands child]

I also posed the same question about hole size for the shifter to Lokar....they just responded with the recommendation of using a 4" hole saw to cut the hole for the shifter. I don't know if I've seen a hole saw that big I guess it mostly depends on the type of shifter boot I decide on.....

That will work - you will just have to square it off with metal trimmers (if necessary).
This is what you need - 4" hole saw, an arbor to mount it on and a Jilson Metal Shear (http://www.jilson.com/shears.htm).

You can buy the hole saw and arbor from McMaster Carr
( http://www.mcmaster.com/) and the shear from Eastwood though I paid a lot less from someone else (
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT)

McMaster-Carr has all kinds of good stuff - my orders get to me overnight as yours probably would as they have a warehouse in LA. They ship at cost. Lots of good fasteners and other misc. hardware - much better then Home Despot or Lowes and equivalent or better then Fastenal.

Dave

[randyr]

Hey Dave,
I finished welding the new floor.....here's some pics.....overall I was pretty happy with and and once I prime & paint it, it'll look much better. I'll seal all the seams with a good body sealer after I prime. Of course, then I'll cover it all up with Dynamat or something....LOL. I still have to drill the holes for the various body-to-frame mounts throughout the floor but that won't be a big deal. I know where they go.

I switched to mig/gas yesterday and started welding the firewall. That's a whole different experience. The guy at the gas shop suggested running the gas at 22lbs of pressure for welding indoors. I've welded the entire firewall, including the bead around the edge and I'm out of gas now. It seems like it went pretty quickly but it's a pretty small bottle. I have some grinding a prepping to do in finishing up but I think it's going to look pretty good.....a far cry better than the butchered firewall that was in there

[randyr]

Crap! It didn't give me a chance to attach the pics ......here they are...

[randyr]

Sorry, those are crappy pics!!! Will take some better ones and repost. Don't pay any attention to the big bowl of spagetti wiring. It didn't look anything like that before I started tearing things out but I've left things sorta hooked up until I start re-wiring.....

[Irelands child]

Randy
Ya caught me coming out from under my truck. Maintenance time - oil and filters then on to more '31 body work. The body work is extermely dusty, with the sanding of fillers and paints that it takes some effort to get into the process. I do not envy a pro body man

The floor looks very nice, and you are making great progress - need some sauce with that spaghetti tho. Welding with gas is a whole lot better way to go - no splatter, and really easier.

For seam sealer, 3M has some brushable stuff (expensive) that works nicely. Make sure you use it with plenty of fresh air - it can put you in la-la land for a while and it wasn't even fun getting that way.

I'm using some Dyna-Mat but only to stop resonances from doors and quarter panels. I'm also using a ceramic foil backed material that I bought from Juliano's and a synthertic rug underlayment material rather then the usual jute pad. This is the stuff I have and will also use it for fender protection from rocks. http://www.foambymail.com/Volara.html. Take a look at this - a lot cheaper then Dyna-Mat as well as a lot lighter.

[Irelands child]

Randy

Got my replacement hood sides from Rootlieb - and of course they were the wrong ones so back they went and, hopefully, the right ones are enroute. I had ordered plain sides, no louvers, no hardware or hardware holes. They sent stock Model A hood sides with the great long ugly OEM louvers. Should have the replacements for the replacements Monday or Tuesday.

The trunk lid, rear fenders and a few other assorted pieces are now straight, smooth and lump free waiting some polyester primer and final 600 grit sanding. headway is s-l-o-o-o-w but at least there is some. I'm glad that I'm not trying to make a living doing this kind of work

How are you making out with seam sealing and final welding in of the firewall?

Dave