Quote Originally Posted by randyr
Thanks for the heads up about the extra bits, Dave. In doing a search for the replacement screws, I've found a few reproduction houses that carry them, some stainless & some regular. I've sent emails asking about the strength of the stainless screws but no response yet. I really don't care which they are as long as they are strong and paint will stick to them. I hope to never remove them again once the doors are adjusted. While I'm at it is there any need to replace the hinge pins? Mine seem to be tight and in good working order.

I'm quite a ways away for exhaust pipes yet but I'm listening to you guys and formulating ideas along the way. I had originally thought I would just take it to a muffler shop and have it done but the more I read, the more I'm inspired to tackle it myself. Does the aluminized steel use the same welding gas (CO2/argon) that I have or something different?

Anyway, Dave I'm anxious to see that body on your frame. Will that be happening soon or are you still building a bird house?? LOL!

Later guys.
Randy
Randy - up early today, eh!!!
You'll be lucky to get more then a D-u-h-h from most suppliers. IMO, the ferrous OEMs lasted 70 years, why SS if you are painting them. If I had the hinges off I would replace the pins regardless (assuming you can find them)

I used the standard auto supply store aluminized steel and it welded nicely with my standard CO2/Argon gas. When you cut pipe off, you end up with a clean end with no aluminum. I dressed the burrs and made a weld prep with a file because I used a sawzall instead of a pipe cutter.

Your anxious to see the body on the frame - but I'm beyond that. A foot of slop in my backyard has to disappear before I can drag the chassis up the hill to the garage. Don't want to get it stuck in a "raw" state in my lawn.

Done with the @#$% birdhouses