37 Ford build--IE: old Header issues thread /37 Ford/5.0/GT40P heads

[34_40]

I asked them about the strength of the SS screws because one of the suppliers seems to only have SS ones. They also have hinge pins, SS & regular.

You're right, there's no need for stainless because I just want to get the doors to fit the best possible, paint them and forget about them. I see no reason to draw attention to a shiny stainless hinge screw! LOL!

May your back yard dry up quickly and I'm sure the birds are thrilled with their new home! .....

Randy, Like IC2 said. if the originals went 70 years.. why bother with SS? I've had very good service from Spadaro also. The counter guys are always good with me! And if your taking the doors off, then replace the pins just because! Cheap insurance I think!

Also, I bought the duals "kit" from summit for street rods. gives you all the needed parts to assemble a system. Just choose your mufflers. I only own a arc welder (Lincoln AC225) so it's just a bit harder than if I had a mig. No worries tho'.. it's comin' together and if the weather co-operates I might take it out of the garage and make a quick spin around the block now that it's nice an' quiet!

I just ordered a pair of swan neck mirrors from Drakes, they were on special. What do yuo guys have for a interior rearview mirror.?.? I'm not thrilled about installing one but, I'll need one for at least the first state safety inspection. I always find these inside mirrors in the way of my field of view. I'm a bit to tall even in my daily driver the mirror is in the way.

[IC2]

Randy, Like IC2 said. if the originals went 70 years.. why bother with SS? I've had very good service from Spadaro also. The counter guys are always good with me! And if your taking the doors off, then replace the pins just because! Cheap insurance I think!

Also, I bought the duals "kit" from summit for street rods. gives you all the needed parts to assemble a system. Just choose your mufflers. I only own a arc welder (Lincoln AC225) so it's just a bit harder than if I had a mig. No worries tho'.. it's comin' together and if the weather co-operates I might take it out of the garage and make a quick spin around the block now that it's nice an' quiet!

I just ordered a pair of swan neck mirrors from Drakes, they were on special. What do yuo guys have for a interior rearview mirror.?.? I'm not thrilled about installing one but, I'll need one for at least the first state safety inspection. I always find these inside mirrors in the way of my field of view. I'm a bit to tall even in my daily driver the mirror is in the way.

Just about everything major including my frame and body came from Dick Spadaro - but his shop is only 3-4 miles from where I worked plus he used to be a neighbor when I lived in Altamont. You will talk to either Dick himself or Bill when you call. Now I'm about 20 miles from his shop.

My inside mirror is a glue on Big Al's, about a 3" oblong and the outsides are Sun Spec swan necks. All from Yogi's. As far as being too tall - I have that problem as well at 6'4" - and in an 'A' roadster????

I bought my 'U' and 'J' bends along with my Flowmaster 50 series from Summit but the 12' length of pipe was purchased locally.

Now - it's supper time

[randyr]

Well, guys, I managed to get the passenger door off today. The impact wrench wouldn't budge the screws but certainly deformed the contractor's strength bit I was using. I ended up drilling the heads out only to find that there were regular nuts on the back side. I'm an idiot! I assumed they were cage nuts on the back side. The good thing is that no redrilling & tapping will be required. There isn't much adjustment with these holes though so I'll probably have to enlarge them just a little to get the door just right.
When I got the door off the car the hinge pins were a little loose. I ordered new pins, bolts etc from your buddy, Spadaro today. Very nice man on the phone. Do I have to buy their hinge pin remover or is there a home remedy?

When I remove the driver's door I'll definitely try loosening the nuts before drilling out the heads of the screws......

[IC2]

Well, guys, I managed to get the passenger door off today. The impact wrench wouldn't budge the screws but certainly deformed the contractor's strength bit I was using. I ended up drilling the heads out only to find that there were regular nuts on the back side. I'm an idiot! I assumed they were cage nuts on the back side. The good thing is that no redrilling & tapping will be required. There isn't much adjustment with these holes though so I'll probably have to enlarge them just a little to get the door just right.
When I got the door off the car the hinge pins were a little loose. I ordered new pins, bolts etc from your buddy, Spadaro today. Very nice man on the phone. Do I have to buy their hinge pin remover or is there a home remedy?

When I remove the driver's door I'll definitely try loosening the nuts before drilling out the heads of the screws......

Oh well, it worked for me

If the hinge pins are simply press in with a knurl to hold them in place, a good drift punch should get them out OK or you can make up your own tool with a C clamp if you don't want to whang them with a hammer - some of these hinges are a bronze, others are cast steel and then some are rolled sheet metal.

I rebuilt my brand new Brookville hinges and adding a oillite bushings, some 5/16" high strength steel pins and set screws to hold them in place as I ended up with pins with no heads. One was floppy/sloppy, the other 3 were bound tight and actually buckled the right door skin.

Not sure who you talked to at Spadaro's - but it is usually Bill that answers the phone.

I got the radiator on today and plumbed up - pictures later** to bore you.


** Added below

[34_40]

Well, guys, I managed to get the passenger door off today. The impact wrench wouldn't budge the screws but certainly deformed the contractor's strength bit I was using. I ended up drilling the heads out only to find that there were regular nuts on the back side. I'm an idiot! I assumed they were cage nuts on the back side. The good thing is that no redrilling & tapping will be required. There isn't much adjustment with these holes though so I'll probably have to enlarge them just a little to get the door just right.
When I got the door off the car the hinge pins were a little loose. I ordered new pins, bolts etc from your buddy, Spadaro today. Very nice man on the phone. Do I have to buy their hinge pin remover or is there a home remedy?

When I remove the driver's door I'll definitely try loosening the nuts before drilling out the heads of the screws......

Don't you hate it when that stuff happens? My last one happened last week, after working all those hours on the exhaust, when I started it up it was horrible! I took it all back off and verified that I had no other leaks in the pipes. After all those hours I discovered the heads have a provision for a crossover for the air injection pump. Since I don't have an air pump or the crossover pipe, the port at the rear of the heads were open! Talk about noisy!

Since you've got the hinge off the car, you should be able to set it up in a vise or if your lucky, a press, and push them out. It may require some heat also! That's the good part of having them out of the car!

[randyr]

Ok, so here's how the passenger side is shaping up.....I've fitted the bear claw latch install bracket into the door then had to rebuild the pillar side. There a pic of before and after on the pillar. My question is what's the best way to weld that seam in the corner (last pic) where the new piece meets the door pillar? Should I stitch weld it solid or just tack it and use bondo to fill the crack? So far I haven't been very good at welding in a corner like that....

I got the door adjusted so the body lines match even though I forgot to take a pic of it....

[IC2]

Ok, so here's how the passenger side is shaping up.....I've fitted the bear claw latch install bracket into the door then had to rebuild the pillar side. There a pic of before and after on the pillar. My question is what's the best way to weld that seam in the corner (last pic) where the new piece meets the door pillar? Should I stitch weld it solid or just tack it and use bondo to fill the crack? So far I haven't been very good at welding in a corner like that....

I got the door adjusted so the body lines match even though I forgot to take a pic of it....

Randy,
Inside corners = a tough area to weld (the weld seems to wander)
Try turning the heat down on the welder and the wire speed up a bit so you have a little more filler wire exposed to get into the corner better. Then slowly stitch run your bead about a quarter inch at a time. The Mamas and the Papas said it never rains in Southern California, but I a do know that they did have an occasional bout with funny weeds and mushrooms and didn't always see too clearly . What I'm trying to say is that you will be leaving a potential area for water to break thru as 'bondo' is not water proof.

Did you get your SS screws and hinge pins already?? Or are you just doing a trial shot at alignment.

Your latch job does look good tho - lots of fitup, but really not too bad of a job. My progress is still slow - three inches of rain yesterday, then it turned cold and my yard has turned into the frozen edition of the Dismal Swamp - which means the chassis and body are still 50-60 feet apart. My latest photos ar a couple of posts up.

Later

[randyr]

The Mamas and the Papas said it never rains in Southern California, but I a do know that they did have an occasional bout with funny weeds and mushrooms and didn't always see too clearly . What I'm trying to say is that you will be leaving a potential area for water to break thru as 'bondo' is not water proof.

Did you get your SS screws and hinge pins already?? Or are you just doing a trial shot at alignment.

Your latch job does look good tho - lots of fitup, but really not too bad of a job. My progress is still slow - three inches of rain yesterday, then it turned cold and my yard has turned into the frozen edition of the Dismal Swamp - which means the chassis and body are still 50-60 feet apart. My latest photos ar a couple of posts up.

Later

Hey Dave, it was Albert Hammond who did the musical commentary on rain in SoCal but I get your point! LOL! The Mama & Papas did a lot of California Dreamin' probably along with the wacky weed & mushrooms....LOL! Personally, I like my mushrooms sauteed and placed on a nice grilled filet or chicken breast!!

I get your point though. I'll give your welding suggestions try. The fabrication on this side looks far better than the other side but hopefully both sides will look good when I'm finished with them. I haven't received the new hinge bolts & pins yet. I got some 1" 5/16x24thread flat head socket bolts with new hardened washers & nuts to do my trial fit and adjustment. I enlarged the hinge mounting holes in the front pillar to allow for some adjustment. It was pretty easy to get the door raised 1/4" to align the horizontal body lines but but the vertical lines are much more challenging if not impossible without some cutting on the door.

The labor pains of spring in your neck of the woods can be a real pain! A nice warm day to tease you, a blizzard the next! Some people don't like SoCal because they miss having seasons......a temperature range of 47-93 year round is enough seasons for me! LOL!

Your last pics of the radiator plumbing look great. I'm curious about where you bolted your AC dryer. Couldn't tell in the pic.

Gotta run for now. Happy Sunday!
Randy