Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[J. Robinson]

When he got that sedan the sub-rails were completely gone on both sides, the lower cowl sections were rusted away, the lower 10 inches or so of the rear body panel was rusted away, and the rain gutters were completely gone. Worst of all, the inner door jamb structure around the driver's door was rusted out. I had to tack-weld the doors shut to get everything squared up. Then we climbed inside and X'd the body in a few places with conduit so that we could lift the body off the frame without destroying what was left of it. After trimming out some remaining rust scraps, we fabricated new sub-rails from 1" x 2" rectangular tubing and then started fabricating patch panels. After we did all the patchwork welding and filled the roof (with the roof panel from a 1986 Toyota van), we removed the conduit bracing from inside and cut the doors loose. We welded 5/16" round stock where the gutters were and he molded it in while he was doing all the bodywork. It's a pretty nice, solid body now...

The Track-T still has a long way to go, but I'm pleased with the progress so far. I would probably be moving a little quicker on it, but I am trying to accomplish a few things on the wife's honey-do list while helping my son and a friend on their cars, too. Also, (Don will understand this) some days I go out to the garage, poke around for a few minutes, and decide that the heat is more than I want to tolerate, so I just go back in the house...

[Itoldyouso]

I've seen a few guys post that the heat has driven them out of the garage, and I khow it sure makes me go to the shop later and later every day. And even at 8 pm it is still 90 in the shop.

JR, you are really making great progress on the T. Every time you post you show us so much more getting done. I really envy you for that.

I didn't know your Son had that fordor. Cool little rod ! Nice to see he saved one nobody else wanted.

Don

[Dave Severson]

I've seen a few guys post that the heat has driven them out of the garage, and I khow it sure makes me go to the shop later and later every day. And even at 8 pm it is still 90 in the shop.

Don

You guys don't have A/C in the shop???? Man, I have A/C even up here in South Dakota. With the weather lately, probably the most important piece of equipment in the shop!!!! Even have a couple of the neighborhood stray dogs coming over in the afternoon to find a cool place to catch their afternoon nap!!!!!

[Oldf100fordman]

Also, (Don will understand this) some days I go out to the garage, poke around for a few minutes, and decide that the heat is more than I want to tolerate, so I just go back in the house...

I can understand that train of thought. I am working on mine outside (read no garage ). I am glad I tried out my chain saw yesterday while it was only in the eighties. Got all the trash brush and volunteer trees cut down.

Starting today it's supposed to be in the mid to high nineties all next week. I don't even want to no what the humidity will make the heat index.

I really like both your track T project and your sons fordoor is nice. It great to see a body style not often used for a rod.

[J. Robinson]

Well, I have reached the point in this project where I must mount the steering box and linkage. The problem is, I want cowl-mounted steering as was common in the old track roadsters and I also have to contend with the pedals. Remember, I'm running a stick in this car and I have to make room for 3 pedals... So, I kind of have to contend with all of it at once.

I began by cutting a piece of 1 5/8" tubing about 6 feet long. I welded a piece of scrap steel over the cut end and then filled the tube with wet sand. I tamped and packed the sand as tight as I could get it and then capped the open end with a pipe cap. I measured to find the center and then put a mark 11 inches out each way to indicate the approximate center of the bends (determined by measuring the bending dies).

I moved the rollers of my bender out to the second hole, centered one of the tubing marks on the bending die and began pumping. At about 45 degrees of bend, the jack was starting to get pretty reluctant, so I relieved the pressure, moved the rollers out to the next hole, and completed the bend.

All went well, so I moved on to the next bend. I figured that it would be more prudent, time-wise, if I just left the rollers in the 3rd hole to start with and I should be able to make the bend in one shot... WRONG! At about 60 degrees of bend, the tubing kinked! (See 3rd pic)

OK, lesson learned. I took another short piece of tubing, welded a piece of scrap over one end, filled it with wet sand, etc,etc... With two nice bends in hand (after dumping out the sand and cutting the welded end off), all I had to do was make them into one piece of the appropriate size. Some trial & error and a little measuring to get the right width, and I was ready to put the two halves together... Splicing tubing together is no big deal; all you need is a sleeve for the inside of the splice. Leave a little gap between the main pieces so the weld penetrates all 3 pieces and weld it home. Properly done, the splice will be the strongest part of the tube.

[J. Robinson]

With the tube made to fit under the cowl, the next step is to hang the pedals. Yes, I am using swing pedals instead of bringing them up through the floor. I have a few reasons for doing it this way. First, beleive it or not, swing pedals were common in track roadsters! Track roadsters were the forerunners of modern-day sprint cars and many of them were built with cowl-mounted steering and pedals. It kept everything up out of the way of the rather cramped driveline space and also made service / repairs at the track easier. Secondly, I am using the Chevy S-10 hydraulic clutch mechanism and the master cylinder has to be mounted above the slave which is easier to accomplish with swing pedals. Finally, in keeping with traditional hotrod building practices, I am using some commonly available salvage yard parts that I have on hand (that's how we did it in the old days, right?).

Beginning with the complete pedal assembly from the S-10, I determined I needed to remove 2 1/2" from the front of the bracket. After sectioning that bit out, it was "cut and try" until I got something that fit where and how I wanted it. By the time I was done, I had tacked the pedal assembly to the tube, cut it loose, and rewelded it twice. Finally satisfied with the fit, I welded the pedal assembly solidly to the tubing and then trimmed off all the excess bracketry that is no longer necessary.

The last step was to prop the whole thing in the car, climb in, and determine what changes would be needed to make the pedals workable. In order to get the gas pedal in there, both pedals needed to shift to the left. Also, they needed to come up a little further from the floor. All I did was a little heating and bending with a torch; problem solved. The bottom dogleg in the clutch pedal was already there; I added the upper bends. I bent the brake pedal a bit more than the clutch pedal to get it a little closer to the clutch than it was originally. The pedals are a bit tight in there, but similar to an early VW Beetle...

In a "worst case scenario", I might have to borrow Don's ballet slippers to drive it.

[Itoldyouso]

Cool way to do the hanging pedals. You are right about them being able to fit in a tight space. I had an Austin Healy Sprite years ago, and the three pedals fit into a very tight area. I like the ones you are using.

Don't get Bob started on that ballerina thing. I swear the man has the strangest collection of pictures I've ever seen. He must have been a side show barker at the circus at one time.

Don

[Ron B.]

Jim, good call on using wet sand in the pipes, my brother gave me his bender because he kept kinking pipes. I will be nice and let him borrow it back and maybe I will even let him borrow some sand.

Your progress your making is incredible, and your ideas are inspiring.

Ron

[bluestang67]

Jim i'm a favorite to swinging pedals and glad to see you in operation . I like this idea and pics may help me get mine in there just right. Fred Flintstone and twinkle toes comes to mind for shifting and bowling .

[Ron B.]

SLACKER!!!

Just kidding, I got tired of going back so far to find the thread.

Ron

[Itoldyouso]

Yep, I've been waiting for updates too. I bet JR is getting ready for "back to school."


I just noticed something funny. JR and I both joined the tubing for our underdash roll bars in exactly the same way.


Don

[Henry Rifle]

Don,

That's the same way I joined two halves of a straight tube axle that I narrowed for a Super Comp altered. I didn't do a rosette weld, though. I beveled both halves of the axle, left a little gap, welded it up and ground it smooth. You couldn't tell it was narrowed.

Great minds, eh?

[J. Robinson]

Yep, I'm a slacker! I admit it.

Yes, great minds think alike...

Actually, what little time I've spent in the garage recently has been mostly to help my son with his sedan. (Plus, I had to go back to work [YUK! BARF!] ) We rebuilt all the brakes, ran the brake lines, and finally put the body back on his chassis. In between helping him, I have been tinkering with the steering box mount, but I'm not far enough along with it to write it up. Soon, very soon, I promise!

[FMXhellraiser]

I wish I noticed this thread earlier. I will have to keep up with this one now and follow along with it like I do Don's. Great work and I love Track T's!

[J. Robinson]

Hey, better late than never, FMX. Glad you found my thread. I've always been partial to track-T's.

Another long-time dream of mine has been to build a replica of an old Indy car (either a Kurtis or Watson roadster) and make it street legal. So far, though, I've never been able to get my hands on a set of blueprints...