Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[J. Robinson]

Well, I finally got enough pics to show how I shorten a drive shaft. It really isn't a difficult process but has several steps, so I will have to break this up to get all the pics posted. It usually takes about an hour to complete the process. Only drive shafts that are straight (not stepped or tapered) from end to end can be cut this way and I always do the cutting at the rear end.

The first step is to insert the splined yoke into the tailshaft of the transmission and take a length measurement. I just let the back end of the shaft rest on the floor, push the yoke in as far as it will go, and then pull it back 3/4 inch. Turn the shaft yoke and the rear end yoke so they are in phase with each other. Now take a measurement from the depth of the rear yoke (where it normally holds the U-joint) to the rear of the bearing cup on the front yoke. This dimension will be the same as a center-to-center measurement, but is easier to get, especially if you are working alone. On my roadster it measured 17 5/8 inches.

Next, I remove the drive shaft and take a center-to-center measurement on it's U-joints. This 1986 Camaro shaft measured 41 1/2 inches. Now subtract the needed 17 5/8 from the existing 41 1/2; the difference of 23 7/8 inches is what I needed to remove from the existing shaft. Before I throw it in my chop saw and lop off the end, however, some pre-planning and preparation is necessary.

First step in modification is to clamp the uncut shaft in a vise and mark the position of the yoke and any weights that might be attached to the rear of the shaft. Note that the front and rear yokes are always in phase with each other, but since the shaft was balanced with the yoke in a particular position, I want to put it back together in the same position. I use a coarse file and "draw" it sideways the length of the shaft. This gives me a permanent mark that no amount of handling will erase (I learned this the hard way).

Next, I knock the rear weight off with a cold chisel and put it aside to be reattached later. Then I grind down the weld holding the rear yoke to the tube. I grind it until it is completely flat all the way around the shaft. This makes cutting through it easier and, as an added benefit, the grinding heats and discolors the end of the tube so I can see exactly where it stops.

Using the discolored marks as a guide, I cut all the way around the shaft about 1/16th inch deep. This can be done with a hacksaw, but I use an air-powered "whoopee" saw.

[J. Robinson]

One god "bap" with a hammer and the yoke pops out of the tube! Now the tube goes to the chop saw to have the necessary length removed (23 7/8 inches for my roadster).

Next, position the yoke so that the marks made earlier on it and the tube line up. After a couple of solid taps to get it started, stand it on end and slam it down on the concrete floor a few times to get the yoke into the tube. (Some drive shafts, like GM metrics and older Chevy, go together fairly easy, but these mid-80's Camaro / Firebird shafts are a really tight "swedged" fit.)

At this point it is necessary to have a good U-joint in place, so I installed the one I'm using. (It's an "adapter" U-joint that has different dimensions across the bearings because I am using a GM engine, trans, drive shaft and a Ford 8" rear end.) If the yoke falls out of the tube while you are wrestling with the U-joint it's OK. It goes back together fairly easy now. Finish installing the joint into the yoke and put it back together. If the yoke just won't stay put at all, put a small tack-weld on it.

With the U-joint installed, bolt the drive shaft in place in the car and jack up a rear wheel so you can spin it (both wheels if you have a posi rear). Clamp a long screw driver, welding rod, paint stick, or something similar in a position so that it almost touches the drive shaft right in front of where the yoke and tube will be welded. Spin the rear wheel slowly and watch the shaft to see if it runs true in relation to the stick. (This is an old blacksmith's trick to check run-out on a shaft or wheel; you could use a dial indicator instead if you want.) Use a hammer to "persuade" the driveshaft & yoke to move around until it runs true. When you are satisfied, put at least 3 tack-welds around the yoke & tube. Check the run-out one more time to make sure the welds didn't draw it off center. If everything is still true, weld it all the way around.

The last thing is to weld the weight back on the shaft according to the line you scribed earlier. That's it.

[J. Robinson]

I haven't progressed a lot on the roadster this past week as I have spent most of my "garage time" helping my son with his sedan. I did manage to work in a couple of small items, though.

First, I made a pair of diagonal braces that bolt to the frame and to the front hoop. When the body is in place, they will bolt through the firewall. Their purpose is to further strengthen the steering box mount so it will not flex and put stress on the fiberglass body.

The other thing I did was fabricate a mount for the (yet to be fabricated) removeable roll bar brace. I made the mounting bracket from 1/4 inch plate, 3 inches square. I drilled the 3/8" holes on diagonal corners and welded 3/8-24 nuts underneath. This bracket is welded and gusseted to the frame right behind the front hoop on the passenger side. When the body is in place, it will be under the floor. The top plate is 3/16" plate, 3 inches square and drilled to match. The brace (when I fabricate it) will weld to this plate.

The only other thing I did was to mount the brake and clutch master cylinders so that I could shorten the pushrods for both. Those were just a matter of cutting and splicing the rods to the appropriate lengths, so I didn't bother taking pics.

[Itoldyouso]

That isn't going to move at all JR. Great way to brace it. Is your Boy's sedan going to make it to Daytona?


Don

[J. Robinson]

I would say that his sedan has about a 30% chance of making it to Daytona; there's about a 70% chance he'll be riding with me. He still has to fabricate the battery box and finish the grille shell. He also needs to finish the mounts for his windshield frame so he can take it and have glass put in it. Then he still has to wire it and put some kind of mufflers or baffles on it.

None of that is impossible, but he still needs to register it and get insurance. Money is an issue for him right now, so I guess we'll see what happens... His real goal is a rockabilly rod run called the "Groundhog Gala" in February at "Destination Daytona". We've been to it the last two years and it's a pretty good time. He should make that date with no problem...

[Itoldyouso]

Then there is always the Billetproof thing at Garlits place in March. That will be fun too.

Don

[J. Robinson]

My son finally drove his sedan for the first time today! (See pic) Hot-wired ignition, no mufflers, and no windshield, but it circled the block under its own power. Hooray!!

Now maybe I can get back on the roadster and finish up the fabrication stage.

[Hotrod46]

Glad to hear about your son's car.

I've been keeping up with your's and Don's projects just about every day. Noticed you hadn't posted any new roadster stuff for a while. It's looking good by the way. Glad to hear your going to get some more done too.

[J. Robinson]

Well, I have reassembled the roadster with the body back in place. The master cylinders (for brakes and clutch) fit fine. I had to put some shims between the front hoop and the inside of the firewall so the diagonal braces could be tightened up.

While the body was off, I cut the hole in the tunnel for the shifter. When the body and steering were in place, I installed the shifter and climbed in to see how everything fits. At first, the stock S-10 shifter was too far back and too far to the left. Twice I took it out, took it apart to protect the nylon parts, and reshaped it somewhat with the assistance of my torch. It's pretty close to being acceptable now, but is still not quite right (see pic). The problem is, when in second gear, my knee is trapped behind the steering wheel and I can not pull my leg back enough to get my foot on the brake pedal. The situation is not acceptable, but I elected to leave it for now until I get the seats mounted. Then I will make final adjustments to the shifter.

The seats, by the way, are tractor seats I got at Northern Tool. They are light, comfortable, and weather-proof. They were $99 each.

[Itoldyouso]

I bet your kid is stoked. Nice looking little tudor. Heck, you guys are just a stones throw from Daytona, maybe he can make it?

Your T is really coming along great too. I know what you mean about space for things like legs though. Luckily I'm a short guy at 5' 9". but you still have to sit a certain way to work the brakes and gas.

Now that you have your Son pretty well along it looks like you will be back on the T more often. As you can tell, the guys on here are not going to let you slack off at all !!

Don

PS, good idea on those seats.

[tango]

My son finally drove his sedan for the first time today! (See pic) Hot-wired ignition, no mufflers, and no windshield, but it circled the block under its own power. Hooray!!

Now maybe I can get back on the roadster and finish up the fabrication stage.

COOL car I like where you showed how to shorten a drive shaft . I made a drive shaft for a early Toyota pick up that we installed a 307 Chevy with a 3speed manual trans . It work out fine . This was when the guys were putting V8s in the Chevy love trucks .

[J. Robinson]

I put a 350 Chevy in a 1983 Volvo 780 Sedan once... That was a driveshaft I couldn't do myself; two drastically different diameters involved.

Here is a better look at the seats I got from Northern Tool. If it turns out that I can't use them here, I will put them in something else. They are really comfortable.

Sorry about the dust on the lens...

[Hotrod46]

Looking good JR.

Have you thought of "doglegging" your shifter stick slightly to the passenger side? You could hide the dogleg under a boot.

Mike

[J. Robinson]

One of the nice things about building this car has been the possibility to jump from one thing to another. After fighting with the steering mount assembly and now the shifter location , I decided to soothe some of my frustrations by doing something that is relatively easy and shows visible progress...

Most original track-T's had side nerf bars on them like modern sprint cars and midgets (track-T's were the forerunner of modern sprint cars). The purpose of side nerfs is to keep race cars from hooking or interlocking their rear wheels together when they are racing in close quarters. If you hit another car with a front wheel you might have your nose sent skyward momentarily and get a jolt when it comes back down, but the results are rarely disasterous. On the other hand, if you hook rear wheels, somebody usually goes end-over-end.

I fabricated the side nerfs from the same material as the front bumper, 3/4" O.D. tubing. First I cut two pieces 48" long and then bent them about 120 degrees on my trusty Harbor Freight tube bender. (Bending the small tubing is easy because it bends successfully without having to pack it with sand and cap the ends. ) After bending, some trimming of the lengths was necessary. The exact lengths and angles are unknown; I just did it by the "cut-and-try" method.

At the rear, I welded on a short piece of "sized" tubing so that it will slip inside a piece of 1" O.D. tubing. The two short pieces were drilled through with a 5/16" hole before welding. This is so a bolt can be installed through them. The 1" tubing is welded to the frame and becomes a receiver for the finished nerf bar. At the front I welded on another short piece of the 3/4" tubing so a bolt will fit through it. ( The pictures show this better than I can explain it.) The front of the finished nerf bar bolts through a 1/2" hole drilled in the radius rod bracket just under the body. There you have it. In just a few hours I have something that I can actually see the progress on.

[J. Robinson]

Yep, Mike, I think that's probably the solution. But I decided I should probably wait until the seats are mounted so I won't have to do it again if something changes. I may just fabricate a whole new upper section so it looks more "period correct".