Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[Hotrod46]

I like the nerf bars, been thinking of adding them to my car. They really add to the "race" look.

[Hotrod46]

Just another thought on the shifter.

If you used an old Hurst stick, you could just fab up an adapter to bolt it to the side of the existing stick. Be easy to add spacers to get it over as far as it needs to be. Just thinking out loud.

Mike

[J. Robinson]

That's another viable suggestion; I appreciate your thoughts. I can bend or space the lever over to get it away from my knee and the steering wheel, but the problem is that I begin to crowd the passenger area. Fourth gear puts the shifter against the passenger's leg and if I need reverse... Well, if my wife is sitting there, she'll just think I'm getting frisky ; if it's someone else I cold get my face slapped or my nose broken... What I really need is a shorter shift pattern. I have looked briefly online, but haven't yet found a short-shift kit for this trans. If I have to, I'll make one...

[Hotrod46]

Yeah, I know how important it is to keep the wife happy!

That's why I ripped the B&M shifter out of my T, just too crowded.

[J. Robinson]

I haven't done this in a while, so I thought it might be time to update the cost of this project so far. I am at the point where I need to get the fuel cell, headlights, taillights, and gauges (maybe at the Turkey Run?), so an update before those expenditures seems in order. Although I have done a considerable amount of work since the last update, I haven't had to buy any terribly expensive components. The most expensive was the Northern Tool tractor seats for $99 each (plus tax).

Cost at last update was: $1722.35
Numerous trips for bolts, etc, total: 93.67
Additional tubing (roll bar): 41.26
Northern Tool seats: 209.88
'68 Olds 442 steering column: 50.00
'85 Camaro drive shaft: 15.00
Universal joints: 27.41
'67 El Camino master cylinder: 22.75

Total so far: $2223.58

So far, so good. At this rate, maybe I can bring it in for around $4,000 total. Time will tell...

[oldrodder43]

Couple of questions Jim. 1. Why did you put the slight bend in the rear end of the top radius rod, and given that there is a reason, why then did you choose to put it on top and not on bottom? Is it just to keep things parallel with the chassis parts? 2. Why did you turn the pinion angle down without regard to the angle of the tranny output shaft? oldrodder43 Perley

[bluestang67]

Jim i looked also for this S10 tranny and had no luck . I brought it up somewhere and i was told i could swap the insides out using the original mount . This way i could get a short shift mechanism for a mustang and install it in the S10 mount .

[J. Robinson]

Perley,
The bend in the top bar of the rear radius rods is there merely for body clearance. Without the bend, I would have had to raise the rear of the car up (NO! Never!! ) or cut a notch and some of the floor out of the body. Also, from a structural standpoint, the bottom bar should always be kept as straight as possible so that it won't bend under acceleration. When you nail the throttle in a car, the pinion gear tries to climb up the ring gear. That causes the rear end housing to try to rotate upward, pushing the bottom forward. If there is any flex in the lower bar it will cause wheel-hop and eventually metal fatigue and breakage.

I always set my pinion angle down a couple of degrees so that the front bearing on the pinion gear will get lubricated. About ten or twelve years ago, on the 8th lap of a 10-lap heat race, the pinion gear assembly, a piece of the carrier housing, and yoke came out of my stock car with half of the drive shaft still attached. I was told that when the pieces hit the track, the remains of the gear and bearing were glowing orange-hot! (This was a 9-inch Ford rear) When it happened, it sounded like a cannon going off inside the car and the front half of the drive shaft cut a gash in the floor and tunnel about 3 inches from my ass. When the pieces cooled off, the gear teeth still looked fine, but the front bearing was melted together and showed no trace of oil. When we checked the pinion angle later, it was pointed up about 5 degrees. Since then, whether it's right or wrong, I have always set my pinions tilted down a couple of degrees to keep the pinion bearings lubricated and have never had a similar problem.

Bobby,
Thanks for the info. I will look at some Mustang shifter kits. I know that Ford and GM used some of the same 5-speed trannys, but it hadn't occurred to me that the 4-speed shifters might be the same or, at least, similar enough to interchange some parts. Thanks again for the suggestion and for spending the time on my behalf.

[J. Robinson]

While at the Turkey run Friday, I picked up a set of Dolphin gauges ($168.54), Deitz headlights and a pair of '46 Ford taillights ($134 total). With the $2223.58 total from above, the cost of this project is $2526.12 so far.

[FMXhellraiser]

Looking good and great price on those gauges and parts.

[J. Robinson]

Thanks. Yeah, the gauges were on a show special for $159 (+ tax); regular price $179. The set I got are black faced with curved glass. Although I have coils on the front of the roadster, it is otherwise pretty traditional to the track-T's of 1948-1955. I thought the black faced gauges were more "period correct" than some of the others.

At first I considered trying to find smaller headlights, but finally reasoned that in 1955 small headlights didn't exist. I also vacillated about the type of taillights I wanted to use. I have '50 Pontiac bluedots on my coupe, so I wanted something different. After looking around all day I finally decided the '42-'48 Ford oval shaped lights would fit the back of the T turtle deck nicely, so...

[Itoldyouso]

Those taillights will look great back there. I have similar '47 Chevy lights on my '27 and always liked them.

The vendors at this years show were ready to deal, especially on Sunday at about 2 PM. They all said people were holding onto their dollars a little more tightly this year. Dan bought a $ 900 drilled and chromed Superbell axle for $695, and I think we could have beat the guy down more but we felt guilty.

Jim, are you thinking your T might be done for Billitproof? You sure are making great strides with it.

Don

[BradC]

Billitproof.......when, where, oh nuts here I go again driving to Fla just to look at cars..........LOL
BradC

[J. Robinson]

I doubt the T will be done that soon. I still need to find a fuel cell and mount it, fabricate the rear bumper, make headlight mounts, decide on the windshield style and find or fabricate it, fabricate an intake and exhaust system, make a hood and hood sides, make the dash panel... The list goes on. You know the drill; after everything is built I have to blow it apart for finish welding, sandblasting, and painting. Maybe next year's Turkey Run?

I will probably be driving my coupe at Billetproof or possibly riding with my son in his sedan...

[J. Robinson]

Oh, by the way, Don. Here a couple of the pics I took in Indiana last year of my coupe (Ratzass) beside the car that inspired it (Katzass). For those who wonder what I'm talking about, Katzass has been a hotrod since 1956. I used to go cruising in it with a buddy of mine back in 1965-66. It was the second hotrod I ever rode in and I wanted a fenderless Model-A coupe ever since. 40 years (and several hotrods & racecars) later I finally got my wish.