Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[J. Robinson]

I honestly don't know how "engine-turning" was done originally, but back in the early 70's when I was building quarter-midgets, I devised this method:

All that's needed is a rotary wire brush, a drill to turn it, a straight edge guide of some sort, and a few clamps. The piece to be "swirled" needs to be clamped to a flat surface. For this firewall, I used the wood buck again and clamped it and the firewall to my folding work table. For the straight edge guide, I used a piece of aluminum square tubing. (I could have used a piece of angle iron or even a strip of wood. I have done both in the past.)

With the firewall clamped to the table so it would hold still, I clamped the straight edge guide across the firewall 1/2" from the bottom (because I'm using a 1" brush. If I was using a bigger brush, I would start with 1/2 the diameter of the brush). I start at one side, with the rotary brush spinning at top speed and riding against the straight edge guide, I push it down so that it makes a brushed circle. I move 1/2 the diameter of the circle so they overlap and do another one, then another, another, etc. all the way across. Once ya get the hang of this, you can make the overlapping swirls at the rate of about one per second.

After finishing a row all the way across, I move the straight edge guide up 1/2 the diameter of the swirls and do the next row. I just keep repeating until the whole piece is finished. Notice I started from the bottom so I would have a straight side to start from. Every time I move the straight edge guide, I check it with the tape rule to make sure I'm keeping it straight. About halfway through a piece like this, it feels like you're never going to get it done, but eventually you end up with an engine-turned panel.

After the engine-turning exercise was complete, I flipped the buck over and clamped the firewall and lip to the back side so I could pre-drill the rivet holes. Then I set the firewall in place on the car, drilled some holes in the fiberglass, and riveted the firewall and lip temporarily in place. When I actually install this for good, I will use contact adhesive behind the firewall so it won't rattle or squeak and I will put in all the rivets (only used 4 for now).

[Itoldyouso]

You CAN'T cover that up with a hood.........way too pretty.

Don

[J. Robinson]

Thanks for the compliments, Don.
I'm shooting for the Turkey Run. I wasn't originally pushing for that, but recently realized that it is an attainable goal, so... Now the push is on! Yeehaa!!

[Itoldyouso]

Yeah man, you've got 147 days left!!!! I just noticed something Jim, you have like only 655 posts, and have built 3 cars on here. You are a man of few words, maybe that's why you get your cars done and I don't.

Don

[Ken Thurm]

Wow!! You have got a lot done, it really looks good, great craftsmanship.
Ken

[J. Robinson]

...and have built 3 cars on here. You are a man of few words, maybe that's why you get your cars done and I don't.

Don

Nobody has ever accused me of being a man of few words! "Motor mouth" is usually more like it...

[J. Robinson]

Wow!! You have got a lot done, it really looks good, great craftsmanship.
Ken

Thanks, Ken. That means a lot coming from you. The craftsmanship and ingenuity on your roadster is outstanding!

[FMXhellraiser]

Man that engine turned firewall looks amazing! I am stealing that idea from you. On my T that I want to someday build, I wanted to do a sheetmetal firewall even though it's a glass body but now I want engine turned on top of it as well. Did you go to bed feeling drunk and spinning when you close your eyes after looking at all those swirls?

[J. Robinson]

Thanks FMX. Although it's tedious and time consuming, it's not difficult to do and makes a neat effect. It's also a good treatment to do on a dash insert. No, didn't feel drunk or dizzy; just tired wrists from trying to control the drill. The neat thing about that effect, when you walk past and the light changes, it looks like it's moving...

[J. Robinson]

Ok, I have a hood support lip on the body; now I needed one on the nose. This one turned out to be pretty simple and I accomplished it in about 30 minutes. I took a piece of 1/8 x 2 flat stock (bought at ACE Hardware), cut it to length, and bent it with my bare hands (No, I'm not faster than a speeding bullet, more powerful than a locomotive, or able to leap tall buildings! It's just soft metal... ). Once I was satisfied with the fit, I tack-welded it to the back edge of the brackets that hold the nose piece on. I will weld it solid when I remove the nose later.

Now that I have something to mount it to, I can fabricate the hood next.

[J. Robinson]

I didn't get as far as I wanted today , but I did get one hood side cut out. As I stated somewhere above, I am making the hood from reclaimed steel industrial shelving. During some renovations at the school where I teach, some old shelving was replaced. I salvaged five pieces of the old stuff that was in pretty pristine condition. The finish is somewhat worn (who cares?), but there are no dents or gouges; that's why I grabbed these pieces. The one in the first picture is typical of all.

The second picture shows the "tools of the trade". I used a metal yardstick, a framing square, a tape rule, a Sharpie pen, and some aviator snips. (I would have used my air-powered metal shears, but they decided to die before I made the first cut!) In this picture I have already removed one lip off the shelf and trimmed the edge (closest to the camera) straight.

In the third pic you can see some of the layout lines. I just measured from the firewall to the nose piece with the tape rule, transferred the dimensions to the steel with the metal yardstick and framing square, marked the lines with the Sharpie, and cut out the shape with the snips. It was almost a perfect rectangle, but the top edge is 1/4" longer than the bottom.

Once the rectangular piece was cut out, I held it in place on the car to determine where I needed to cut the bottom out for frame clearance. Then, back to the table one more time for a quick trim and this step is done. The fourth pic shows it taped on the car. Before I quit for the day, I tried this piece on the opposite side of the car; it fit fine but is 1/8" too long. It will be simple to make the second piece; I will use this first one as a pattern and just shorten it 1/8".

[oldrodder43]

WOW, that firewall is excellent. You're a genius, I would never have thought of that, nor how to accomplish it. Doesn't the drill/brush want to 'run away' and just spin all over the place. That's what would happen to me, and when it was 98% done so all that time and effort would be wasted! Perley

[J. Robinson]

I didn't get as far as I wanted the last time, but it worked out OK. As it is, it gave me time to study what I had done and I decided to cut 2 1/2 inches off the top of the hood sides. I did this so that it will simplify building the exhaust system later. So.., after trimming the top off the side that I already made, I used it as a pattern to make the opposite side.

On the right side I encountered a little clearance problem with the outer water jacket on the intake manifold, so I made short work of it with my Sawzall. I'll complete this modification later...

With the hood sides cut to fit, the next step is to reinforce the top edge. The reinforcement is added there to stabilize the edges where the hood tops will meet and latch to them. I made the reinforcement pieces from 1/8 x 1 1/4 flat stock. After cutting the flat stock to length, I drilled 1/4" holes along the top edge of the hood sides, 4" apart.

With the reinforcement strip situated half under the hood side and half exposed, I welded through the holes to attach the reinforcement to the flat stock. After welding, I dressed the spots flat with a grinder. There are some small dimples left in the welds, but rather than risk warping the panels with more welding, I will fill these little imperfections with glazing putty later when I'm doing paint prep.

[J. Robinson]

With the reinforcement welded in place, I drilled a 17/64 hole through the hood side and reinforcement in each end, clamped the hood sides in place, and drilled matching holes in the hood support lips on the firewall and nose. I attached the panels with 1/4" stainless steel button head allen bolts. I will add mounting holes at the bottoms of these panels later; I still have more work to do on them first.

Meantime, with the panels temporarily in place, I was able to begin making the patterns for the hood top pieces. The top will be made in two halves with a piano hinge down the center. Using good ol' trusty poster board again, I cut and fit the left half. That was as far as I got today...

[FMXhellraiser]

Looks awesome. That hood and sides are going to be smooth and clean. Going to run any louvers?