Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[Hotrod46]

JR

The paint is looking good!

Looks like we're about neck and neck on getting these things finished.

I think you're still ahead though!

Keep up the good work.

Mike

[Dave Severson]

When's the scheduled drive-away day Jim???

Sure do like the paint colors you have on the car! Gonna be a fun one and look great too!!!!!

[J. Robinson]

Thanks, guys. I'm pleased with the way it turned out so far. Dave, I am a "redaholic" too. Ironically, even though red is my favorite color, I haven't owned very many red vehicles. Of the 50+ cars I 've had in my lifetime so far, only 3 of them have been red!

No set date, but I'd like to be driving it in time for Billetproof in March...

[bluestang67]

Jim the color sure changes the look great choice by the way . The frame is looking outstanding and great color combo . As in the movie cars what did he say oh yeah KA CHOW .

[OFT]

Looking good Jim. Are you going to be able to get it mostly together during the school Christmas break?
Just to let you know, the high here on Thursday was 14 degrees, 4" of snow. And yes, I drove the '29AA. Been driving it every day for several months (lower gas prices as it gets 7 mpg).

Earl

[Gastrick]

Wow that chassis looks great Jim!

It was nice chatting with you at the Turkey run again even if Don did give us the brush off

[J. Robinson]

Thank you all for the compliments.

Yeah, Bill, I don't know why Don was avoiding us... Could it be "hair envy"?

Well, the pics don't show much and it doesn't look like I made much progress this past weekend, but I was actually at it pretty steadily. If you recall from earlier posts, I have two of these 2.5 Chevy S-10 engines. My goal for Saturday was to determine which one to use. The first engine (the one that was sitting in the roadster for the earlier pics) was a running engine when it was pulled out of a wrecked and abandoned S-10. The second one was supposedly a recent rebuild that was removed from a truck after it ran hot once.

I pulled a compression test on both engines Saturday. The first engine tested all four cylinders above 125 PSI (125; 130; 160; 160). The second engine didn't fair as well; these engines are notorious for warping the heads if they get hot. It checked with two cylinders above 125 and two barely at 60 (60; 125; 130; 60). Also, the first engine had nice tan-colored spark plugs when I pulled them out and the exhaust ports are dry (no oil residue). So, I will use the first engine as is (cleaned and painted, of course) and save the second engine for a future rebuild. The second engine came with a 5-speed trans (the real reason I bought it) which I will use.

I spent the rest of Satrurday doing some preliminary cleaning and dismantling all the exterior stuff so I can finish the cleaning process. The engine will be painted the same red as the frame; the trans will stay bare aluminum. Here are a couple of pics of the engine on the stand with everything removed. It sure is a tiny little thing without the manifolds, etc...

[Mr Blue]

Looking Fantastic!!!! Keep up the good work! Don Jr.
P.S. Those shots of various painted suspension parts remind me of the Mr Blue Build! Looked like a disfunctional Christmas tree ornament display! Love your car man!

[J. Robinson]

Looked like a disfunctional Christmas tree ornament display!

That's funny! I wonder what my wife would do if I hung my front bumper on the tree in our living room...

Thanks for the compliments. My son said he saw your T and your dad's T parked together at the Turkey Run. He loves your car! He went on and on about how clean and perfectly detailed it is. That Grabber Blue with white interior is striking in the pics; hopefully I'll get to see it in person at Billetproof?

[Mr Blue]

I always think car parts make the Christmas tree more "festive"
I am going to be at Billletproof for sure! Just going to take off work that weekend and do it. Cant wait to see your track t there bud. Really stellar work! Don Jr.

[vara4]

J Robinson; I'm gonna use the 3/4in rod ends, that's what you recomended for a V8 right.
Anyway I need to know what size bolt the end take's and how thick the rod end is from side to side so I can make the plates for the frame and rear end. thanks kurt.

[J. Robinson]

Kurt - It kind of depends on what you intend to do with the car, how heavy it is, and how your radius rods are designed. I used 1/2" on the front end and 3/4" on the rear of both my coupe and my roadster. Some people prefer 5/8" everywhere, but 3/4" rod ends will handle about anything you can throw at them. If I had a 4-bar system in the rear, I would have used either 5/8" or possibly even 1/2" as long as it was a lightweight car with small block power (or smaller) and auto trans.

If I knew more details of what you are building, I could determine your needs more adequately. Also, Dave Severson or Brian Ruppnow might be more qualified to recommend something... Tell us what you are building.

[brianrupnow]

I have always used 1/2" for 4-bar set ups. For single point connections like you have with hairpins, and a light car, I would probably go with 5/8" minimum for safety. As for width---Why are you asking us?? Talk to the people you are going to buy the ones you use from. The widths vary from one manufacturer to another.

[vara4]

J Robinson; I've got a 12 1/2 to one - 351 Cleveland Roller motor going in this 65 Ranchero.
Probably better then 600HP with a small block C - 6 trany backing it up.
Frames narrowed to put big tire's up under it. Probably will run about a 513 gear in the rear end. And will be hooking up nitrous oxide. Thanks Kurt

[J. Robinson]

With that kind of power turning some big rubber, you definitely need the heavy duty stuff. Brian is an engineer and you can take his advice as gospel: If you are using a single point connection (ladder bars or "truck arms"), go with the 3/4"; if you are building an adjustable four-link like a pro-stock car, go with the 5/8". Don't use the economy stuff either; go for the pro series (Speedway Motors) or better.

Heim ends have matching shank and hole sizes. For example, the 5/8" rod ends have a 5/8" hole and a 5/8" fine thread shank. The thickness may vary between different series ends and different manufacturers. Before you fabricate any bracketry, you should get the rod ends you are going to use and build accordingly.