Another build thread? Yep, my track-style T

[vara4]

Thanks J Robinson; Guess I'll have to send for them then.
I'm building a 4 link so 5/8 should do it.
I can do some other stuff while I wait for them to get here.
Thanks again for the advice, that's what Dave Severson
said to. Was just trying to hold off on spending money till
I had to. Bought all my steel last year before I got sick so
I was just trying to use what I allready had.
But with the help of my son we got alot done the last
couple of days. Thanks again Kurt.

[J. Robinson]

Progress hasn't been as fast as I'd like this week, but at least it's been steady. By the time I get home in the afternoon, I only have about 2 hours until darkness sets in. This week I've been trying to get the engine cleaned and painted; the cleaning portion is an activity which must be done outdoors. I have a process that I use that has worked for me over the last several years...

Monday and Tuesday evenings were spent out in the driveway with engine degreaser (7 cans!), a selection of brushes & scrapers, and the garden hose. Wednesday evening was cold and I stayed in the house.

Thursday I washed the engine again with a liberal application of lacquer thinner in a spray gun. Lacquer thinner will disolve just about anything and the air pressure from the spray gun helps to dislodge stubborn stuff. I help it along a little with a small brass wire brush. After the lacquer thinner bath, I switched to wax & grease remover. I spray it on in small sections and wipe the area dry with a clean rag. If the rag comes up dirty anywhere, it gets re-scrubbed and then degreased again. Finally, when it was as clean as I could get it, I laid on a coat of lacquer primer. I only put enough primer on to achieve hiding so the paint will stick. Too much primer will cause cracking and peeling when the engine is run and gets warm.

Saturday, after the primer had been cured for almost 48 hours, I painted the engine with the same basecoat / clearcoat paint used on the frame.

[J. Robinson]

Before I set the engine in the frame, it is necessary to get everything square. One thing any car needs to do is go down the road straight and it's a lot easier to square the chassis before a lot of other components get in the way.

The first thing I do is find the center of the front crossmember and mark it with a center punch (see arrow in first picture). Next, I center the rear end by measuring like points on the rear backing plates to the frame rails and adjusting the panhard bar until both sides are equal. Finally, I measure from like points on both ends of the rear end (in this case the brake bleeders) to that center punch mark on the front crossmember. I adjust the radius rods until both measurements are equal. I always run the measurements a second time to make sure everything is right. When the rear end is centered and triangulated in this manner, the car will go down the road straight.

[J. Robinson]

Finally, the front axle is squared to the rear axle. The front axle is centered first by measuring from the king pin bosses to the center punch mark on the crossmember and adjusting the panhard bar accordingly.

Next, measurements are taken from like points on both ends of the rear end (in this case the brake bleeders again) to like points on the front axle (in this case the grease fittings on the top of the kingpins. The radius rods are adjusted until both sides measure the same.

[stovens]

Some very helpfull advice JR. I love this thread even though you do stuff beyond my abilities, I learn from you every time you post. Thanks, Steve.

[J. Robinson]

Steve - Glad you're enjoying the thread. Trust me, you can do anything I've done here so far. There is no "rocket science" involved, just basic skills. You just need confidence in your abilities.

OK. The last thing I accomplished over the weekend was mounting the fuel cell. I just ran out of time last night before I got it posted... Of course, all the mounting hardware was fabricated some time ago (back on page 21), but I needed to do a couple of small things - mount the fuel pump and make the insulators to keep the tank from squeeking and wearing holes through itself.

First, I drilled the appropriate holes in the forward tank support to bolt on the electric fuel pump. There is just enough room to sneak it in beside the fuel cell. Next, I cut pieces of a 26" bicycle inner tube to line the tank supports where the fuel cell sits and a couple of small pieces where the back corners of the cell rest against the rear ceossmember. I attached these "insulators" in place with 3M spray adhesive. After I set the cell in place, I cut additional pieces of the inner tube to insulate the hold-down straps. I didn't glue these in; I just laid them in place and let the strap tension hold them.

[Gastrick]

Really slick Jim. I love it when a plan comes together. What fuel pump are you using there?

[J. Robinson]

Thanks, Bill. The pump is a Mr. Gasket # 12-S. It says it's for 4, 6, or 8 cyl engines with carburetors; not for fuel injection systems. I assume that means it's not high pressure enough for injection... As you can see in the pics, it is really small. The guys at Advance Auto Parts tell me they've had good luck with them and they are common nationwide in case it does break down. Time will tell...

[Mr Blue]

J.R. What intake and carb are you going to use?

[J. Robinson]

I'm not positive yet, Don. A neighbor of mine has an old Chevy Monza mini-stock out in the woods that has an "Iron Duke" engine in it. It has an intake that is set up for a Holley 2-barrel. If it will fit, that is the answer to my problem. I am supposed to get the engine out of that mini-stock sometime within the next couple of weeks; then I can find out if the manifold fits. The heads look identical, so I am hopeful. Otherwise, I guess I will build an adapter for the original stock TBI manifold to accept a small 2-barrel of some kind...

As for the carb, I have a good Holley 500 CFM 2-barrel, but that's probably way too big for a stock 4-banger. If I can find someone who has a 350 CFM Holley 2-barrel that would like to trade, that would solve that conundrum, too.

[ted dehaan]

hay j.r. a couple of side webers would realy look soooooper just a thought.....ted

[Ken Thurm]

That's really coming along nicely.
Ken

[J. Robinson]

Ted - A couple of side draft carbs, Webers or whatever, would look cool on there. I don't think they fit the budget right now, though. I have seen one of these engines that had a pair of Harley Davidson carbs adapted on a home made intake. I have also looked at old SU carbs like the ones used on Jaguars, Triumphs and MG's. My goal for now, however, is to get this thing running as soon as possible. The side drafts will have to come later. Just in case, I have kept my hood patterns so I can make a new right-side top half when I change carbs.

Thanks, Ken. I just wish it was coming along FASTER!

[Ken Thurm]

Side drafts would really fit your build, in my opinion. Like you said that can always come later. Maybe when you decide to do it, I could help you make the manifold?
Ken

[Bob Parmenter]

Nothing more fun than spending someone elses money! I'm with the others on the side draft thing. I would think down there in sunny Fla. there would be an abundance of motorcycle "stuff". I can see a set of Mikunis from a 4 cylinder rice rocket, or scrounge (I know you know how to do that!) four approx 35mm singles, fab your own manifolds, one per cylinder (or take Ken up on his offer) and you're in. Probably could be done for a couple hun, or less with your prowess.