new build thread

[techinspector1]

It's ironic to note that you are using "AK" as your board name. One of the most successful proponents of the little 4-cyl was Mr. Ak Miller (short for Akton). He has passed on to the big boneyard in the sky now, but made some outstanding parts for the little motor in his time. He was particularly interested in turbos and propane. I had his two book set outlining everything involved here for a number of years, but it has been lost in moving around. Maybe you can google and find a set of them somewhere.

Another excellent source for hop-up parts for the little motor is Esslinger Engineering.
http://www.esslingeracing.com/

By the way, Poli-Form makes a 3" stretch model of the T body, although it is very pricey.
http://www.poli-form.com/

[Angelking]

Whats the first step for you AK? Or should I say where are we going from here?

Thanks everyone. Since I live in two different places, I took all the parts with me to Key west. I now have the engine almost disassembled. Should have the block at the machine shop next week.

While waiting on that, will start the clean-up on all the other parts.

Will post more pics. by first of next week.



AK

[Angelking]

These wheels are dated 1935 Ford. Can the hubs form a Pinto be reworked to accept these? Any problems with using the Pinto brakes with these wire wheels? Any other advice concerning these wheels? They are going onto my lakes 27 project if I buy/win them.

Thanks

AK

[brickman]

You can have any hub welded back solid and redrilled, but there are after market hubs in chevy and ford 5 lug patterns offered. It is the same that fits the Mus II front end.

[Itoldyouso]

I've got some of these '35 wires that I want to use on some future project too, but here is the thing. These rely on not only the bolt holes to locate them on the brake drum, but the inside of the wheel, where it contacts the drum, needs to register on it. In other words, the drum on a '35 is designed to fit exactly into the '35 wire wheels, and center it. Some people simply bolt these on other Ford drums, but the correct way is to get adapters that not only have the right bolt pattern, but fit tight into the wheel to locate it.

I am not sure where to get them, haven't gotten that far in my research, but I think Wheelkid, who used to post on here said he could make them for like $ 80 a pair. I am doing that from memory, and my memory isn't what it used to be.

Don

[Angelking]

You can have any hub welded back solid and redrilled, but there are after market hubs in chevy and ford 5 lug patterns offered. It is the same that fits the Mus II front end.

But mine is the Pinto Front/rear hubs.


Thanks

AK

[Angelking]

I've got some of these '35 wires that I want to use on some future project too, but here is the thing. These rely on not only the bolt holes to locate them on the brake drum, but the inside of the wheel, where it contacts the drum, needs to register on it. In other words, the drum on a '35 is designed to fit exactly into the '35 wire wheels, and center it. Some people simply bolt these on other Ford drums, but the correct way is to get adapters that not only have the right bolt pattern, but fit tight into the wheel to locate it.

I am not sure where to get them, haven't gotten that far in my research, but I think Wheelkid, who used to post on here said he could make them for like $ 80 a pair. I am doing that from memory, and my memory isn't what it used to be.

Don

Do these adapters offset the wheels? If so, do you know how much?

Is there any harm that could come from just filling in the current stud location and redrilling my current hubs for these wheels? I would assume a machine shop would have to do this to keep it centered. If I did it, I would probably be launched out of the car in the first 5 feet.

B.t.w. I sent an email to wheelkid. There was a website located in his profile.


AK

[Angelking]

So what wpuld be the best year Ford or Chevy wires to look for that would be able to be adapted to my Pinto hubs?

Thanks
AK

[Itoldyouso]

Generally, the '35 wires are the ones to have because all the others are bigger in diameter. As I mentioned, I have not really dug into the whys and wherefores yet, but the little I do know is that these wheels rely on having that fit between the drum and wheel to support them well. The bolt holes themselves are not enough.

I know someone makes the adapter, but I just do not know who that is yet. Look up wheelkid on the HAMB.


Don

[Angelking]

Generally, the '35 wires are the ones to have because all the others are bigger in diameter. As I mentioned, I have not really dug into the whys and wherefores yet, but the little I do know is that these wheels rely on having that fit between the drum and wheel to support them well. The bolt holes themselves are not enough.

I know someone makes the adapter, but I just do not know who that is yet. Look up wheelkid on the HAMB.


Don

I wasn't aware the '35's" were the one to have. I will look into it harder.

I found wheelkids website and sent them an email, but have not heard anything back yet.


AK

[Angelking]

A few updates....engine is totally disassembled......from the pics, yes using the back of my truck as a garage floor for now until I get home.

Block going to the machine shop this week.

Kit calls for leafsprings to be cut in half...done. Just need to grind them smooth.

Rear end is going to be cleaned up this week, and the brakes rebuilt.

Bought some cool vintage SW guages. Want the old look.

[Angelking]

Concerning the 35 wire rims would they fit over the pinto rear brake hubs?
The Pinto hubs measure 9 1/2" on the outside and 10 3/4" on the inside.

What about the disc brake front hubs?

Also, how do you paint these things without making a mess?




Thanks

AK

[Itoldyouso]

Hey man, you're stuff is looking good. Moving right along there.

As for painting the rims, I just got done doing the ones on my T, but they are solids, not wires. I imagine the process is the same, pretty much. The first two I painted, I took a small piece of flat stock, drilled a hole in the center, and put a hardware store eyebolt through that hole. Then I ran a piece of chain to the eyebolt and suspended the wheel from my 2 x 4 strung between two ladders. The eyebolt passed down through the center hole and the flat stock was the surface the wheel rested on. It hung with the outside of the rim facing up.

Then my Son reminded me he had built a rack to paint wheels on, so I used it to paint the second two. It is simply a piece of box tubing, about 4 feet long, and he welded studs to the end to match the bolt pattern of two of the wheel holes. He put two nuts for stops, and after you put the wheel on you simply put two more nuts on to keep it in place. I suspended it on two sawhorses while painting. When the wheels are bolted on this rack, it looks like a barbell, with a wheel on each side.

Both methods worked good, and I was able to spray every inch of the wheels, except for where they rested on either the nuts or the strap. It was such a small area that it doesn't show or matter.

I would think wire wheels would be the same, but you will have to be careful to coat every wire on all sides, and still not get runs. I think I would do the wire portion first, and make sure they are coated, then move on to the rim portion, as the rim will be easier to coat evenly. Several light coats would be the ticket, to pickup any areas you miss first few times around.

Keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming. BTW, those springs had to be fun to cut.


Don

[Angelking]

In an earlier post you said you had some 35 wires lying around. Is it possible you could take some measurements? The pic attached shows where I need them. Trying to determine if the rims will fit my hubs.

2nd question, is having my drums and front rotor filled and redrilled to fit these wires work that any machine shop can do or is that a specialty job?







Thanks

AK

[Itoldyouso]

Sure, I'm heading over there shortly, and will measure for you. Have you gotten in touch with "Wheelkid" yet? I think he can solve your problems by making up bolt on adapters, regardless of your bolt pattern.

As for whether any machine shop can do this or not, I'm not sure. I know the holes have to be drilled perfectly or you will have vibration problems, and am not sure whether it takes a special machine or not.

I'll get back to you with the measurements later on.

Don

PS: Here, I found Wheelkids company site, in case you don't have it. www.rallyamerica.com