Thread: Sound Deadener

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So after reading the article and actually trying some of what it said would you say it's pretty right on?

John

John,

It's hard to evaluate right now other than a couple of things I noticed. First, installation isn't very difficult if you measure carefully and make some patterns. Second, it made the doors sound like doors instead of tin cans . . . well, maybe fiberglass cans.

It's pretty forgiving. It doesn't grab right away, unless you let it fold on itself. If you miscut a piece, you can fill in with scraps. In fact, I cut some pieces in half because they were too difficult to wrestle into place - doesn't matter.

My only advice is to install this stuff after paint, but before final assembly. It would be easier to install without the gas tank, pedals, etc., in place. (Duh!) However, I'm not taking the gas tank and pedals out. It's much more work for me than working around them.

Lookin' good Henry.

I wonder how much the stuff helps noise-wise in a topless roadster?
I'll probably do it to keep the heat down . . . from the engine and exhaust anyway . . . there's always the Arizona sun to contend with.


Anyhoo, a small comment that's not too far afield.

My pal - who runs a full fendered mit/top 29 A roadster stuck some of that expanding foam stuff from a spray-type can into the doors.
Quieted them down quite a bit.
Not too many other places where you could use the stuff.
Interesting nevertheless.

Kinda makes me wonder how it would work out if you glued regular white insulating foam boards to the vertical surfaces, kick panels, quarter panel sides etc.
The white foam boards did a remarkably good job insulating my roll-up garage door panels.
Both in winter and summer.
1 1/2" thick fwiw, but 1/2" would work ok in a car I think.

There are kits for insulating these doors, but cutting standard 4' x 8' sheets of the stuff with a razor knife/box cutter and a drywall square as well as snapping a line on the longish cuts is easy.
Cut em wide enough so they'll snap into place and no adhesive needed.

C9,

I've already done the doors, and this stuff really seems to work there, as on the floors. I don't have room in the doors for other types of insulation anyhow. The electric windows take up a lot of space.

There are a couple of places I may try some type of foam or other insulation - particularly in the "doglegs" on either side of the firewall. It's just dead, empty space, and it's right next to the engine. An expanding foam might just be the ticket.

Oh, and before you guys tell me to do it right and take out the pedals . . . already in progress.

If you're going to install Damplifier Pro, figure at least two long days to cut and fit it - and that's assuming that you don't have to do any disassembly prior to installation. Mine will take a bit longer because of the channelled floor, and because I'm working around a full gas tank. Counting R&R of the seats, pedals, etc., I'll spend three full days.

I found the aluminum tape to be very handy. It seals all the joints. I also used it to fasten the wires to the floor (2nd pic).

My next problem is to figure out how to deal with the "doglegs" on the sides of the firewall (3rd pic). Making kick panels is not going to be fun.

The more pictures Jack shows us, the better this thing is looking. GOOD JOB!

I wish I knew for sure if Lizard skin was a better way to go as opposed to using Dynamat, Hush Mat, or RAAMmat. My concern is with the glue down or stick on barriers that moisture can get between the barrier and the body eventually causing rust in a steel car down the road. Since I have a 30 roadster noise reduction doesn't really come into play, but heat transfer does. Every manufacturer claims "Their Product" is the ticket so what are your thoughts and experiences with Lizard skin? I would like to do this right the first time around with no regrets later down the road? Yeah or neigh on Lizard skin coating?

Originally Posted by stylingZ

I wish I knew for sure if Lizard skin was a better way to go as opposed to using Dynamat, Hush Mat, or RAAMmat. My concern is with the glue down or stick on barriers that moisture can get between the barrier and the body eventually causing rust in a steel car down the road. Since I have a 30 roadster noise reduction doesn't really come into play, but heat transfer does. Every manufacturer claims "Their Product" is the ticket so what are your thoughts and experiences with Lizard skin? I would like to do this right the first time around with no regrets later down the road? Yeah or neigh on Lizard skin coating?

.....StylingZ, if you didn't already check out the link on post #4 on this thread r/e comparing different products. I don't believe it compares Lizard Skin but it does compare the others...... Bill

ps, I had Dynamat on the doors in my '94 Firebird and it didn't rust through in the 6 years I had the car {& water used to leak in the doors when it rained}.....

You will need something, an asphaltic base material like Dyna Mat on the trunk lid, the quarter panels and doors if for no other reason then to stop the drumming, Dyna mat type products are to reduce resonances while the stuff Henry Rifle (Jack) is installing is also a heat reflection material as well. Generally with Dyna Mat you do not need to cover entire surfaces - only enough to reduce any vibration (change the resonance frequency). You will still need to put at least some insulation on the floor and on the firewall, especially with a roadster, to reduce heat from the engine, exhaust, and reflected heat from the pavement. Some reflective insulation on the rear quarter panels can be considered as well. Most of this reflective stuff, at least the good products, is a fibrous ceramic with a foil covering. You can buy self stick or use contact cement which is the easiest to fasten it in place.