Thread: What determines if you should box the frame?

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Hey guys, just wondering what determines if you should box the frame or not? I'm working on the 51' F1 and it seems like the frame is pretty stout, but it is carrying the 429 in it. are these frame sufficiently strong and rigid for this or should I go ahead and box it?

when boxing do you have to cut a long piece and weld saw 2-3 feet at a time or can you do it in pieces? I'd guess the fewer welds the better? doesn't seem like it would be too expensive, just time consuming.

Red

weight and torque would be a determing factor... with the 429 id box it.. its a heavy engine with some good power... i prefer to use fewer pieces.. 2 foot or so sections would work..

You won't need to box the entire frame, just from about the front motor mounts to the trans mount. Move the plates into the frame channel about 1/2", leaving a lip on the top and bottom. Use a block of wood at each end of the boxing plate (between the plate and the back side of the frame channel) when you are positioning it in the rail. Push the plate up against the two blocks of wood to keep the plate positioned properly while getting your tack welds in place. That way, you have a recessed channel to mount fuel lines, wiring, etc. Don't weld any more than about an inch or two at any one location. Weld a little at one spot and then move to another location and weld some. This will keep the heat of welding from warping the frame rails. Just keep stitching it together until you have completely welded it.

thanks Tech, I was wondering about that because I saw last night on MuscleCar that there are I guess three ways to do it, inset like that with room for lines, flush, and overlap with a fold at the top.

Is 10gauge steel sufficient? I probably have enough of it at the house (I used for a couple of bbq's I built) to do that much of the frame.

Red

10ga is fine, I box everything with it. The thickness of the boxing plate doesn't have to be any thicker then the frame rail itself... As Tech said, make sure you keep moving around when you weld it, concentrating too much heat in one are can lead to some big problems. I have some picks in my gallery of a chebby pickup frame boxed, take a look at it if you want.

Oh, one other thing. Put jackstands under the frame rails and level the truck. Don't weld the plates in with the truck sitting on the tires.

I will be doing this. I talked to my uncle and he wants me to just weld 1" in skip 4 and so on. Will that be strong enough?

I was thinking of waiting till I get the rear end back in and driving it to my friends who has a lift, putting it on the lift would that work as long as it was supported on the frame?

Dave, how do I get to your pictures?

Thanks again all.

Red

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Oh, one other thing. Put jackstands under the frame rails and level the truck. Don't weld the plates in with the truck sitting on the tires.

How about using a 10ft x 20 ft by 2inch thick steel plate table instead of jack stands? Thats what i used. Made a jig by welding brackets to the table to hold the frame straight everywhere and also make sure it wasn't higher or lower on one corner, used 6 ft long plates (3 per side), welded it in pretty good without taking it out of the jig, then took it out to finish welding. Put it back in the jig, no tweaks, warps, nothing, probably straighter than it was new! Oh, 49 chevy pick up frame, boxed with 3/16", welded solid, ground smooth so you can't even tell its boxed.