Thread: Questions about a new build

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Thank you for reading. I just joined up earlier to today and would like to research a project that I want to get started on in the coming years.

It would be a glass bodied 33-34 coupe, in a traditional rod style with no fenders but it will have a hood, ramjet 350 w/ th350. I would be going for the lowest buck complete driver that I can manage with this platform. If you guys wouldn't mind a few questions I would really appreciate the help.

1. Is it a no brainer to go for a rolling chassis package? Do you save coin or spend more if you build it piece by piece? I like what SO CAL and similar products from other companies have to offer.

2. Are there issues with registering and licensing a rod built from new parts in CA? Can it still be registered as a 33-34? I've never tackled anything like this.

3. As a rule of thumb, I imagine you're getting into more finish work as you go cheaper with the initial cost of the body. Is there a happy medium that others have found? I would like to find something with good fit and finish, but I'm not too concerned with how straight the panels are as it would likely be getting flat paint.

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for reading, I hope this is posted in the right area!

Jake

Hi there low budget, welcome aboard CHR, you'll find this a great place for help and friends in the hobby.I'm under 10 g's on my car so it can be done.
1. I think that you can save money because I love the wrecking yards.
2.Don't know about Cal.
3.I would say you get what you pay for, all boils down to how much work do you want to do. I want to do it all myself because I really enjoy it.

Can't really answer your build questions cause I don't own nor have I built a glass 33/34. But there are people here that have and they can be a tremendous help to you on this issue.

As for registering a streetrod in California, again I do not live in CA so I can't speak directly on the subject, but from comments and statements that I have read here and on other sites, it can be a difficult and frustrating affair. But it can be done and people do it every day. You will need to keep excellent documentation (receipts, pictures, etc) cause the DMV will want to see everything. Again their are others here who can walk you thru the whole process.

Good luck with your endeavor, the end will definitely justify the means.

lowbuget- my screen name should be nobudget

If your willing todoo a lot of work yourself and your take time collecting and finding good deals you can do it cheap. I have been collecting parts for a few years for my current build and will be into it for under three grand plus whatever I wind up spending on wheels/tires. patience definatly pays off in this hobby.

Welcome Lowbudget. You do not need a megabudget cubic dollar bankroll to build a hotrod if you are capable of doing most of the work yourself and have a lot of patience. I built the coupe you see in my avatar for a little over $7000. It took me 21 months to get it street legal and 3 yrs 3 mos to get it completely done. The most expensive single part was the body which I got (stole?) for $500. I did absolutely everything myself from fabricating the frame to trimming the interior. Anything you have to hire out will drive the cost up. Also, aftermarket specialty parts are expensive; anything you can use from other cars will usually save you money. I have parts from 27 different cars in my coupe.

Good luck and have fun. Hotrodding is a blast!

Low welcome to CHR i have learned a great deal of knowledge here .



Like Jim says you can build one inexpensive . Fabbing skills get really good this way .

This is my first build and for chassis i did it for about half of what they sell for . I didn't hold back for any safety i thought should be on it . I figure with my labor i'm still way out front here.

For registration you have to check your local DMV laws . Some threads on the site address them from various states . Cali may have been one but i'm not sure . Many states are changing there recontsruction and specialty vehicle laws concerning this.

You can expect to do some work with any fiber glass body you purchase. Gaps and things of this sort will need attention . If you want it smooth , butter and blocking will be the only way .

I guess it all depends on what you want the end result to be.... I build all my own frames, on the 32's and '33-'34's I start with American Stamping rails then do all my own boxing and crossmembers. Both frames have some real swoopy lines, and require a solid chassis table or jig to put together correctly. When it comes to glass bodies, seems you can by a cheapie for $3500.00 and put another $3500.00 worth of time and materials in it...or spend $6500-$7000 and get a nice body that requires minimal tweeking.

Can't help you much about California laws, last time I lived there was '66 and I would imagine things have changed a bit since!!!!! Take a look at Jack's yellow coupe, super nice car now but the body was a real POS when he got it. He just finished his, so he will have some very current info for you on a '33-'34 build....

BTW, Jack is Henry Rifle here on CHR

Thank you everyone for the welcome and the help. I'm just getting finished with my 55 hard top that was my first foray into hot rodding, and did everything myself except for alignment. I did it for under 10k so I think I can relate to many of you guys who chimed in I put some pics of it up in the new member introduction section.

I will have to send Jack an email as this is the second time he has been mentioned in regards to a glass bodied project.

Thanks again!
Jake

Her are some thoughts . . . or a sermon? I've commented in blue inside your quote.

Originally Posted by lowbudget

Thank you for reading. I just joined up earlier to today and would like to research a project that I want to get started on in the coming years.

It would be a glass bodied 33-34 coupe, in a traditional rod style with no fenders but it will have a hood, ramjet 350 w/ th350. I would be going for the lowest buck complete driver that I can manage with this platform. If you guys wouldn't mind a few questions I would really appreciate the help.

1. Is it a no brainer to go for a rolling chassis package? Do you save coin or spend more if you build it piece by piece? I like what SO CAL and similar products from other companies have to offer.

It's obviously a lot cheaper to build your own frame. Wescott's site has the specifications. http://www.wescottsauto.com/pdf2/FR-5.pdf I would recommend buying American Stamping rails, and possibly an aftermarket front and rear crossmember - assuming you're going with buggy springs front and rear. The X-members in the center can be fabbed from round or rectangular steel tubing. It's possible to build an X-member without a bender, or you can buy a kit. You would need to buy a front axle, spring and perches, but the hairpins, drag link and tie rods aren't hard to build if you have fabricating skills. Neither are the rear hairpins. There's a thread here somewhere that goes through that exercise. You can pick up a rear axle from a junkyard . . . er . . . I mean Pick and Pull, and adapt it to the rear buggy spring with your own brackets or a kit.

You don't need an exotic frame jig if you're careful. I made one years ago from an 8" wide-flange I-beam with some square tubing crossmembers welded to it. You just need to get things level and square.

2. Are there issues with registering and licensing a rod built from new parts in CA? Can it still be registered as a 33-34? I've never tackled anything like this.

I live in Virginia, so I can't advise on CA regulations, but you should do some reading here.

http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?ID=61834

You might also want to visit a local hot rod shop and see what they can tell you. Virginia's rules are very pro-rodder, and very simple . . . if you can just get the DMV off of their collective fatasses.



3. As a rule of thumb, I imagine you're getting into more finish work as you go cheaper with the initial cost of the body. Is there a happy medium that others have found? I would like to find something with good fit and finish, but I'm not too concerned with how straight the panels are as it would likely be getting flat paint.

The equation is: More work by you = fewer $$$ gone from your bank account.

I bought a roller for my current coupe, but I have built from ground up. I have done everything except upholstery and glass installation. You need to judge what you can or can't do - and take the consequences of trying.

You can try to get a body locally from someone who has given up on a project, or get a new one. If I were buying a new body today, it would probably be from N&N in Arkansas. Just bear in mind that there are a lot of little parts that you have to worry about in a body - other than the doors, hood, body and trunk. Consider the dash, inner door panels, window regulators and glass, window moldings, front glass and frame, weather stripping . . . the list goes on.

Also, ask yourself: Can I make a safe, strong weld? Can I paint? What are my mechanical abilities? Can I choose the right hardware? Do I have good fabrications skills? What do I want to do, what can I do, what SHOULD I do?

Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for reading, I hope this is posted in the right area!

The biggest tip I can give you is to carefully plan what you want. Don't run out and get a frame without considering what type of body, engine, trans and rear axle you're going to use.

Body: Fenders, no fenders, coupe, etc?
Engine: Make, model
Trans: Auto, manual, make and model
Rear axle: width, ratio
Front suspension: Axle type, spring type (coil-over, buggy?), shocks, steering type (cross, drag link?), hairpins/4-bar/wishbone?
Rear suspension: Spring (buggy, coil, coil-over, parallel leaf?), 4-bar, wishbone, hairpin, triangulated 4-bar?
Car height, rake, ground clearance?

That's just a start. There are many more things to think about. Visualize your car in your head, then document it before you start. You may change it as you go - in fact, I'll guarantee you'll change your plan. They say that the war plan goes out the window when the first shot is fired . That's not entirely true. The base plan goes on . . . you just have to deal with the little twists and turns that you have no control over.

Of course, this is an engineer talking, and my everyday job is planning for the Navy. That's why I emphasized planning. Of course, I may or may not follow my own advice. You know what they say about the cobbler's kids having the poorest shoes.

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer so thoroughly, I greatly appreciate it!

Jake

I have typed, photoshopped, drawn, taken pictures for a thousand hours it seemed before I started anything. My wife said I was infatuated but in the long run there has been several times where that has really paid off. There is nothing to add to Henrys comments, he nailed it. I would just add that really enjoying all of it is a big bonus.

A good plan, and the tenacity to stick to it, will save you both time and money on your build.... The only thing I would suggest is to not make an unrealistic time line for getting things done... Leave it open, forget the pressure of a deadline, and enjoy the build!!!!!

Oh . . . and it will take twice as long as you thought and cost twice as much as you estimated. Bank on it.

building a rod from scratch must be alot of work. I've never done it. bot i am building one that i bought stock and took apart. If i had it to do over again i would do as has been suggested: take over a project that that another has started. Or ,better yet one that is mostly done. Running, moving chassis and body that needs finishing. That way I could enjoy driving it to rod runs , making new friends and generally having a good hot rod experience. It's not all about the building of it.

Bob,

It may not be ALL about the build, but for some of us, it's MOSTLY about the build. Some folks like building, some folks like driving, some folks like showing. The best advice is to do what you enjoy the most.