Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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That's all pretty cool, but why is the engine wearing falsies??

Sweet stance Ken, looks like it will corner good already! Those are Ardun heads right, those must be hard to find huh?

stovens- Steve I'm actually getting close to stopping on it and start the truck.

deuce4papa- Thank you, actually I think it's easier to replace it at the belt line, less distortion. Good luck I hate this part too!

Jack F- This is just a plastic mock up motor, The real one will be a surprise.

lamin8r- I wish it would of worked out when I was there, we are coming back so I'm going to time it to visit you.

Bob Parmenter- I was just trying to impress you

brickman-There easy they are made by Pyar plastics

Ken

Ken, the sedan is moving along very nicely, it's a shame you're going to put it on the back burner for a while but looking forward to seeing what you have planned for the truck.

BTW, it was nice to talk to you again this morning, Elliot did a great job helping me too.

Mike

One word to describe your Tudor Ken...........Bitchin'. What a great look.

Don

Since joining this site I have been amazed at the talent and workmanship of the fellow members. Ken's rides have been amazing.....makes me wish I had half his talent.
Ken with that large sunroof your going to get the top of your head burned.....lol
The sedan looks great.
Bradc

Please do,Ken.Give us a PM or e mail and let us know when you are coming..

It was nice talking to you also, I hope everything got handled.


Itoldyouso- Don, thanks a lot, it means a lot coming from you.

BradC-It's funny you said that. I have been kicking around the idea of putting a sliding cloth roof in it instead of filling it with steel. I saw a guy that used a top out of a VW bus, and it worked really well, when it was closed it looked like a stock style insert.

lamin8r- I sure will.

Work on the car has been slow. I made a list of everything I haven't finished that I started, and it was a lot bigger than what I thought.
I made a bolt yesterday that I couldn't buy so I thought I would show it in case someone else ever gets in this position. It hooks the sway bar links to the top of the ladder bar. The rod end is 3/8" and the top bolt on the ladder bar is a 7/16". So I took 4 SS bolts and drilled a hole in the center of two of them, then turned down the o d of the other two and slid one into the other and welded then together and put a couple of flats on the center so I could hold it to tighten the nuts.
Ken

more, installed

What I love about your builds are all the little one-off pieces that you make. Where I'd run a long bolt through that piece you fabricate a part that is something that looks like a factory made it. Very clean part Ken.

Don

One of the things I want in this car is a Schroeder steering. I think the cowl steering will look correct with the style of the car. One of the problems with this type of steering system is its size, it eats up the foot room real quick. To get the geometry even close to have as little bump steer as possible you have to mount it low in the car. They make these systems so you can flip them over, so you can have the bulk of it high or low in the car. The problem is if you put the box on top the steering arm is really long, and that's no good if you put it on the bottom you loose your foot room and have tight quarters for your pedals. So, I wanted a short steering arm with correct as possible geometry with lots of foot room. Well, that isn't possible, or is it?
I am using a Ansen style pedal assembly with the '68 Chevy truck master cylinder on the outside of the firewall, to help with the room under the dash problem. The steering unit I have was the perfect length when I got it. I was told it was out of a late '50's style Indy Car with the 17" steering wheel. I decided to shorten it 2" and put a chain gear on it and then I could put the other gear anywhere I wanted it. Nice and low so when it came out of the cowl I could keep the steering some what bump steer free. So that's what I am going to do. I ordered the shorter shaft from Schroeder, now i can start making the frame work to hold the gears and the steering box.
What all this means is I can keep the steering box high under the dash then drop the steering arm low coming out of the cowl.
There is a company that makes this kind of drop for conventional steering but not for the cowl steering. If this doesn't make sense I will take lots of photo's.
Ken

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

What I love about your builds are all the little one-off pieces that you make. Where I'd run a long bolt through that piece you fabricate a part that is something that looks like a factory made it. Very clean part Ken.

Don

Don,
This is a case of perception and reality, I think you are perceiving that I know what I'm doing, the reality is I bailed myself out of a screw up. But, thank you for the compliment.
Ken

Good plan on the steering Ken... That old Schroeder box takes me back a ways, cranked on one of them big old wheel lots of nights wheelin the old Super Mods and Sprinters... Funny story, must have cracked the main shaft one night bouncin off a wall, didn't find out till the next Saturday night when it broke in half coming into turn one at a ridiculous rate of speed!!!!

Ken and others

A rocker stud will work when you need a 7/16 x 3/8 bolt, but not available in SS

Hi Ken,

If I am getting the picture correct you are going to mount the Schroeder high for foot clearance then use a chain box to drop the steering low on the cowl to exit the cowl to a near horizontal position for the drag link. Although for a different steering set up, that is similar to what I am using, a steering offset box to clear the headers, for my 34 3 window re build. My prototype box uses a three gear set up but I will build the final box using a chain drive that I think will work better and will be easier to build. Keep up the great posts.

Jack.