Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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Originally Posted by Jack F

Hi Ken,

If I am getting the picture correct you are going to mount the Schroeder high for foot clearance then use a chain box to drop the steering low on the cowl to exit the cowl to a near horizontal position for the drag link. Although for a different steering set up, that is similar to what I am using, a steering offset box to clear the headers, for my 34 3 window re build. My prototype box uses a three gear set up but I will build the final box using a chain drive that I think will work better and will be easier to build. Keep up the great posts.

Jack.

Jack,
Would really like to see yours if you have any photo's.
Ken

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Ken and others

A rocker stud will work when you need a 7/16 x 3/8 bolt, but not available in SS

That would be to long for where I was going with mine. I would rather use something already available than going to all the trouble of making one. I will polish mine when I tear it apart to detail it.
Ken

Ken,

I don't have a pic of the open box, just this one of the box mounted on the firewall. It consists of the input shaft and gear connected to the steering column, idler gear, and output shaft and gear. This one works but I will make a better (stronger) box for the final version that will be a chain drive. Will use this till the other box is made,

Jack.

I had missed this thread before. Great sedan I need to go back and spend some mor time reading the whole thing but that is going to be a great looking car . love the Ardun are you running orgional head or repos?

Rex Rogers

Jack F-Thanks for posting this.

rexrogers- These are just plastic replicas.


I got a little more done. I'm doing the pedals, dash, and steering kind of all at once. They all will get strength and rigidity from one another.
First thing was to get a piece of 3/4"x.120 wall tubing bent to match the inside of the cowl, so I used the firewall as a template. then welded it inside of the cowl. Then used the master cylinder for a template to drill the fire wall. Then made a wooden template of the 3/4" plywood for the curvature of the bottom of the dash and bent a piece of 1"x1/4" flat bar.
Ken

Then made a paper template of what the mounting bracket should look like. Transfered that drawing on to a piece of 1/4"x12"x12" steel plate and drilled all the holes. welded that to the tubing and mounted the pedals. Then put the lower dash mount went in, before I welded that in I laid out the holes for the steering drop and drilled and tapped that. bolted the steering drop in and clamped the dash in just to see if it all limed up. Bolted the master cylinder in everything fit, thank God
Ken

Next comes a ton of bracing and the Schroeder steering.

Looking good Ken, always nice to see a three pedal car! Going to mount the Shroeder with the pillow blocks like we had them in the sprinters?

Dave,
Yes, but it is going to be a real bear. There is a lot going on under their!! Ah, if it was easy it wouldn't be interesting
Ken

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

Dave,
Yes, but it is going to be a real bear. There is a lot going on under their!! Ah, if it was easy it wouldn't be interesting
Ken

Heck, if it was easy everybody would be doing it~!!!!!!

Nice progress Ken. Looks pretty solid! How are things? Haven't seen you around here lately.

nice progress, I love this thread.
keep up the good werk!!

I can only say, at this point, I wish you lived a few miles (like 2,200) closer to me .... some kewl ideas & exicution .... of those ideas.

REGS

stovens-Thanks, we have been busy at work, thank God!!I have been watching your progress, you are getting really close.


STREETWERKZ- Thanks, yours is coming along nicely.


REGs- Thanks, but I ain't moving.

I have been working on the rear sheet metal panel that needed replacing.
I'm going to make a change in my rear suspension. I just don't like the rear spring, it looks to narrow for the width of the car and I think it should look like a model A style. To me when you have a Quick change rear end the spring should follow the lines of the rear end. So I have to take the body off, cut the spring cross member out and move it rearward 3/4" to line up with the factory hangers on the rear end and clean all the brackets off the housing. Then I will use the stock spring hangers on the rear end. I'm having the spring made now it should be done in 2 or 3 days. It never ends.

Ken

Is this the project that you were working on that adjustable ride height crossmember???