Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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I have decided to build a '32 sedan. I'm going to attempt to show the build here. I'm hoping it will help some of the new guys on starting a build and planning ahead so when its finished it sits at the correct ride height and stance you envisioned from the start.
I'm using a Super Bell 4" dropped axle with a mono leaf spring. So Cal spindles and fake Buick brakes (disc brakes inside ) with there hair pin radius rods, and a original Gorden and Shroeder cowl steering that is supposed to be out of an old Indy car with a original 17" steering wheel. The motor will be a blown Ardun with 3x2's. A Tremek 5 speed and a Halibrand V8 quick change. the body will be glass, copped 5" and channeled 6" with a finished ride height of 52".
Setting up the chassis fixture is the first step for me. I use a brake repair shop lift on the bottom, it raises 32" for varying the working height. Then I made the actual frame fixture using 8"x4" 1/4 wall rectangular tubbing.
I have used this fixture for the last 3 cars I have built. Since all I like is '32's I stretch all the frames 3" in the front for a little extra room, I move the rear end housing forward 1/2" so I wind up with 108 1/2" wheelbase.
I just want to say at this point, you don't need the same set up I'm using. If you have a nice flat table and aren't to old to bend over it will work the same.
Now to set the axle heights to give the correct ride height. The reason I use 4" rectangular tubing for my fixture is that is the minimum ground clearance for the lowest part of the frame. So all the measurements are taken off the bottom of that tubing.
I know I will be using a 25 1/2" front tire and a 32" rear. So I want to set the spindle height at 12 3/4" off the bottom of my 4" frame fixture. and the rear will be set at a 2" rake for the car so the tape measurement will be dropped 2" below the 4" fixture and the axle height at 16".
Now I know that I have to kick the front frame rails 3" and the back 6" to give me the clearance I want. The frame will also be "C" notched front and back.
Ken

Great Idea Ken! I will certainly look forward to your progress as I may want to do the same in a couple of years. Especially after retiring and moving to Florida. Will need something to keep me occupied.

If you look at how I mount the axle to the fixture, I just use a piece of 3"x2" angle iron. Then slot it so the spring perch will slide on then tap the fixture to bolt it on the fixture and set the caster at 10 degrees.
The frame will be notched for more head clearance.

I'll be waiting for each installment. While I may never build a '32, it is still my favorite regardless of the fact I'm finishing up a '31.

I'm interested in the frame notch and how you handle the reinforcing after cutting a bunch of the inherant strength out of the standard '32 rails.

This is the frame in my truck, this build will be the same. I cut the frame down to where I use 2"x3" 120 wall tubing. This makes everything the same height.
Ken

Ken,

It would be a bit easier to read if you would resize the photos a bit.

By the way, I'm jealous of your frame jig. . .

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Ken,

It would be a bit easier to read if you would resize the photos a bit.

By the way, I'm jealous of your frame jig. . .

I would be happy to, you are talking to an illiterate computer operator.
Ken

Super idea Ken, I'll be looking forward to each post. It will be meaningful for us because both of my Sons are going to buy a set of '32 rails at Daytona for future projects......Dan has a '30 Tudor body, and Don wants to build sort of a Graffiti coupe clone.

Your work is always top shelf and fun to see.


Don

Awesome!!! I will be particularly interested to see how you set up the sprint car steering as I am interested in setting up a schroeder setup in a project I am working on!

Dave Brisco

Ken: I sent you a PM on how to downsize. If a computer genius like me can do it, it must be pretty easy. Hope it helps.

Don

Looks like you are from the same era as me, judging by the finned brake drums and six dueces. :-)

Is the car going to be a nostalgia piece like the other chassis?

Any major body mods....chopped?, filled top?, or?

What do you have planned for the paint and wheels?

Just to add to the reference aspect, your choice of the So Cal batwing with the integral shock mount saves close to an inch of ground clearance over the "normal" multiple piece batwing arrangement that's available in the market. I would imagine you chose these parts for that specific reason since you're building to very low stance.

Ken Thurm = street rod genius

Originally Posted by nutbush

Ken Thurm = street rod genius

Great little topic.
And Nice work--thank you for sharing- for me this makes perfect sense though.
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