Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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Ken very good stuff. Like Dave said, thanks for sharing these steps! Now if I ever build an old 32, I'll feel fine shelling out 10K for a frame! Seriously, like you guys said, without a good foundation the whole house falls down. Every time I look in the catalogues at frames I think Geeze that's expensive, now I know why!

Ron- It sure has grown, but it's also nice to see so many cars. I thought there was some really nice ones.
Steve- I just hope it helps someone, It's a lot of work to just look at your own stuff.

I have been bouncing around on this thing, starting things and not finishing anything. Here are some shots of the new 2X3X.120 wall inter structure frame work. I had to kick the front of it up to match the stock frame. I cut the center out of the model A cross member and raised it 1/2". anywhere I can get it lower I try and do it. I used some 1/4X1 1/2" flat bar to reinforce the frame where it is cut down by the toe board.
I finally figured out how to fixture the new frame rails to Weld them together. I went back to the lazier cutter and had him cut me out 4 more side rails out of 1/4" material and cut some 1/4" holes in them. Then I bent them the same configuration as the stock rails. Then cut some spacers and bolted them together, rights and lefts. Then welded the spacers to the rails and removed the bolts. Then all I had to do was weld the three pieces together.
I started laying out the tubing that I run inside the frame to house the fuel lines, electrical and brake lines. I use stainless tubing here so if some moister gets inside it won't rust. I also drill a small hole in the bottom of the lowest point in case some does get in there, I also drill a 1/4" hole in the lowest part of the frame in case I spring a leak. The lines aren't finished yet that's why they aren't straight.
Ken

and some more

and one more

Ken , any updates or did you let the month of May slip by without any progress.
I know the hotrod I used this month was 11horse rottotiller........LOL
BradC

Originally Posted by BradC

Ken , any updates or did you let the month of May slip by without any progress.
I know the hotrod I used this month was 11horse rottotiller........LOL
BradC

Yep, I bet he's out plowing the North 40 right now!

Don

Naw he's too busy doing three cars at once and running a buisness, he'll be back!

BradC- Nope I have been working on it, thanks for asking.

Don-Some times I wish I was doing things like that !

Steve- I'm always checking in.

Well here is where it's at. Finished putting in the new sub frame rails and am making the drive shaft hoop, exhaust hangers/holes and ladder bar cross member. That's all in one cross member, I always try to make one thing do at least two or more jobs.
The sub frame for the body is also on it's way, that's the 1X2" that's laying in the lowered frame rail. That will be welded into the body and the floor welded to that. Then the frame work around the a pillar and b pillar will all tie into that structure. It gets pretty flimsy when all the wood gets pulled out so that is all replaced with rectangular tubing.
I have a trial fit for the toe board also to see if the firewall will still come out when the body is on.
Ken

The cross member still has to be finished boxed in the upper photo

Here is where this thing is. I cut off the front frame rails, the plate that is hanging out is what ties the new rails to the existing frame. Now the boxing begins, I hate this part. The window is for accessing the inside of the frame, that's where the brake line will come into the 90 degree bulk head fitting for the brakes and the wiring for the head lights and fan if I use one.
One of the most important parts to a build is to know the rake of the car so you can set the frame up to have the proper geometry. So when you are done there is no binding in the suspension and every thing works freely without excessive wear on parts. This car will set at 4 degrees rake, I want 6 degrees of caster in the font end so my cross member is set at 10 degrees.
The rear frame rails were moved up 6", now that I have fixed the stance of the car I can put the rear end in at the ride height. There is 1/2" of clearance between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame. So now I will use a 2" C notch in the frame to give me 2 1/2" of down travel, the way I spring my cars that is sufficient clearance.
Here are some photo's/
Ken

A couple more

One more I pinched the rails 3" and am using a 46" king pin center line axle.

Ken what kind of transaxle is that?

Steve,
The rear axle is a Halibrand V8 quick change. a friend of mine bought it new years ago and never used it. So I told him I would store it for him
Ken

Very nice! And now it will be more mobile should he want to see it again!