Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan

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What size is the conduit that you hide inside the frame rails?

Originally Posted by Flipper_1938

What size is the conduit that you hide inside the frame rails?

It's 3/4X.065, for the electrical, wiring, and fuel. The fuel line will be a 3/8" but if you needed a 1/2" line I would bump it up to 1".
Ken

Ken, you haven't mentioned the V12 lately. What's up with that?

It's been pushed back a bit. I wanted to get the sedan to a roller stage to get all the pieces I have collected for it out of the way. I'm hoping to take it home in the next couple of weeks then I will get to work on the truck, that's what the motor is for. The drawings are almost complete so then the decision has to be made, billet or castings?
That's a great shot of your cat!
Ken

Well, It's 95% boxed. In the photo's you can see the little access openings in the frame to tighten fuel and brake lines I just have to make the covers for them. Detailing all the welds will take some time but I hope to have that and the body mounted next week.
Ken

Nice, as always.
gonna steal a few ideas

thanks!

Josh

Streetwerkz-No problem that's why I put it on here. I think very few of my ideas are original, I'm pretty sure everything has already been done. It's usually a little of this and a little of that.


I have the body mounted now and part of the floor installed, and the ladder bars in. The floor will take more fitting for the transmission, but for now it serves as a stiffening part.
The next part is the rear cross member. I'm going to use a '40 Ford rear spring. The ride quality is very important to me, so it will be adjustable. That way when I get the spring rate right I can adjust the ride height without affecting the ride quality.
Ken

This is what I'm thinking for the adjustable rear cross member. There is a tab in the middle of the plate that centers the spring but allows it to move up and down as needed. Then on each side are the series of adjustment holes to set the height. There will be a 1/2" treaded bung welded to the top of the cross member where I can screw in a bolt. This will be accessed threw a little removable panel in the floor, so if I need to make an adjustment I can just remove the panel screw the bolt down that will unload the weight on the cross member so I can change the pin location without jacking the car up.
Ken

Sorry, I see I just blew this thing up.

Don't know what the rear weight of the car is but that looks like you'd be carrying thr weight on 2 bolts ( possibly as small as 3/8) in a shear situation thru a cross member that was 1/8 to 3/16 thick????

Now, if this was a temporary crossmember for trial of the ride height/ride characteristics and you would then replace it with a more conventional cross member-----

Also---you don't need the tab or the slot to center the spring as the 2 bolts will do that anyway--and then it will be stronger without the slot---so the idea is starting to look better

I like the design. Cool to be able to adjust it up and down through an access panel. I'm far from an engineer, but looks sound.

Jerry- I know this must look pretty flimsy, but it really isn't. I'm going to make it out of 3/16 cold rolled steel. You are right the bolts will be 3/8" shoulder bolts. The car will weigh in between 2600 and 2800 pounds with a weight distribution of about 60% on the front end with the 5 degree rake. The bolts are rated at 10,280 pounds of sheer strength each, so I don't think there will be a problem. The tabs in the center are to keep everything located properly when I take the bolts out for an adjustment. Thank you for evaluating it though it's real easy to make a mistake, and I could still be wrong.


Steve & EVOLVO- Thanks, hopefully it will all work as planned.
Ken

Here are a couple shots of it on the floor for a trial look.

Originally Posted by Evolvo

Ken,
Looks like a well thought out design to me. That's a beautiful drawing, I especially like the reflection. Do you do these renderings?
Alan

I draw them with crayons on paper towels, then a guy at work makes them correct.
Ken

It has a nice stance to it. I like the fenderless look too. Just gives it a mean raw look!

Originally Posted by Ken Thurm

I draw them with crayons on paper towels, then a guy at work makes them correct.
Ken

I wish I had a "guy at work" that would do that for me

The body looks nice. If it were me, I would take some of the swoop out of the front of the frame.

...but I am sure you will pull it off .....and it will look amazing.