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Hi folks, looking for your guidance with my project. I picked up a 55 Ford 2dr Customline that had been in storage for about 30yrs. It came with a 390FE, 4spd and I think a 9in (haven't verified it yet). It's been sitting in my garage, untouched, since I brought it home 2 yrs ago and I'm now getting the itch to get things rolling. I'm struggling a bit on where to start. I have a plan, and a list of things that need replacing or rebuilding, plus things I want to do/change.

For instance - I want to lower the car and put the widest rubber possible under it.

Some history - the previous owner (which I'm still in contact with) use to drag race it in NH about 35yrs ago, so he added leafs to the rear spring packs and added coil over shocks to stiffen it up. He also (reportedly) added a coil spring spacer to the front to raise it up - I guess to mimmick a gasser look?

Where/How do I start? Should I put stock suspension under it first (purchase new coils and leafs? Then pick my tire/wheel combo? Then determine amount of lowering needed/allowed?

I don't want to bag it, and can't have one that's slammed (east coast roads don't allow it) so I'll be looking at lowering blocks for the rear and dropped spindles for the front.

Chris

What a neat old car, and with a history, too!!! Great find. Guess I'd start by getting all the spacers, shock springs, and blocks taken off to see where it will sit!!! Not sure if anyone makes dropped spindles for the front of the old Fords, have to do some looking on that... Might try a google search for Ford dropped spindles and see what you come up with. I had a similar car when I was a kid with a real gasser look---CAE front axle and a 406 with 4 speed. Keep us updated on your progress and thanks for the pics!!! Lots of memories came back when I saw them!!!!!

Do what Dave said, put it back to what should be there and see how it sit's.
But the most important thing is to make sure it is mechanically sound. Start with brakes including new lines, then suspension and steering, motor transmission and rear end. I would recommend doing this first before you buy wheels and tires you might find that during this time you will change your mind several times on what you want the final look to be.

It is a great looking project, and it must still be pretty mean judging by the fact you have to keep it chained up like a dog

Ron

All that's been said is good advice, I would add that you'll want to evaluate the suspension pieces you have that need help, and where you want to end up. Unless you want to spread your expenses over a several year period, while using the car, rebuilding to stock configuration first might mean you'll be spending money twice when you do the lowering.

Here's one company that focuses on this era Ford; www.jamcosuspension.com

Oh, and that does look like a 9".

Thanks for the replies. I will do my best to keep people informed. This will be a long term project until I sell my other one (79 CJ7). I wasn't aware anyone made lowering springs for these cars. I did find out that I could add disc brakes to the front, and in doing so will automatically net 1" lower stance. Also, Fat Man Fab sells 3" dropped spindles for this car.

Because of its age/condition, I was planning on new fuel lines, tank & filter, new brakes (F&R), lines & master cylinder, rebuild engine & rear end, new clutch, new coolant system, new wiring harness, new suspension, etc.

Do you think that the OEM springs are salvagable given their age & wear/tear? I would think I'd be better off removing spacers, take some measurements, order necessary components and go. Does anyone have any experience using lowering springs vs dropped spindles (is one better than the other?) I could save $ with lowered springs and disc brake kit, vs buying stock springs, disc brake kit and Fat Man droppe spindles.

Next question is how do I determine wheel size and backspacing, and tire size? The disc brake kit requires use of 15" or larger wheel - and I want to use steel rims with center caps.

Chris

i put 3" drop on my blazer with lowering springs looked great, rode ruff tho wound up putting air bags on to smoth out ride.

You can calculate backspace, offset, rim width, etc., with a simple jig and some carefull measurements.

Here's one way.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...res/index.html

No worries for me, though. My '34 will fit ANY size whee.

Jack
- Fenders? What's that?

My friend, who has built cars in previous years, said to remove the body and focus on redoing the chassis (new bushings, factory springs, brakes, lines, etc). Get it to a rolling chassis, put a new gas tank and fuel lines in, then re-do the engine, trans, driveshaft. After that, put body back on and worry about look/fit of tires/wheels then. If I need more drop, cure it then. And then move onto floor pans/body work, electrical.

Thoughts?

Chris

All been said, I may add they make wheels that are 16's with 30's that are only 21 inches high so there are many ways to get the stance you want but that is little work compared to the restoration work. Great car, good start and good luck, have fun is the key!

I really don't know if you need a new gas tank. That one looks pretty decent. Why don't you just have it boiled out at a local rad shop and put it back in. The 9 inch looks okay too. You just have figure out if it's got the gears you want and if it's a locker or equal lock.

Jmho.

By the way, that's one decent looking 55 Ford. Wish I had it.

Thanks for the input. I wasn't aware gas tanks could be boiled/cleaned. Is there some coating that can be sprayed/poured into it to better seal/protect it from rust? The 9" does look good from the outside, but I'm assuming it needs a brake overhaul and while I'm at it, I'll do seals and fluid change. Not sure of the gear ratio or locked/unlocked yet, but will once I get her up in the air.

Chris

If you already know you'll be working on the floors,then by all means take the body off the frame,now you can work on both sides to repair the floors. Take out your tape measure and notepad and measure and map out frame width wheelbase,body mount locations. Now go visit our old buddy,Gary's u-pull it,and see if there isn't a much later model frame you can stick under that thing. Swapping frames isn't rocket science,and it immediately brings you up to date on braking and handling. Take another look at air suspension,it works good, and rides very nice at almost any hieght you choose. Hank