Thread: So---With Visa card in hand I called Gennie Shifter---

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Boxstr, Thank you very much! Really! The plastic clips are really neat; I can take your pictures to a local top shop. This means that I can get the "Gypsy" type top and will not have to drill holes in the tops of the doors for a stick or pole as used in the stock doors. In fact I think one can retain much of the side vision by extending the clear plastic back in a triangular way almost to the back brace. I have pondered this for over six months as to how to avoid the need for holes in the door tops and retain the side vision. I have been in contact with a local top shop and they say they can make whatever I want at $50/hour plus cost of materials and they did a super job on a '34 Dodge roadster recently. C9x talked me into Lexan as well after I had the WW cut from (heavy) glass but I had a hard time drilling the holes for the windwings straight and ended up with some wedge-shaped rubber hose washers. Maybe I can remake washers out of copper tubing and have them chromed or find some aluminum tubing to keep the metallic look. It is frustrating to me to see examples again and again of better workmanship than I can seem to muster but maybe once I get the car finished I will be able to clean up some of these details like the hose washers. I note I still have to drill the stanchions for the side curtain posts. I wore out a bit drilling the WW mount holes but I have a new drill press so maybe I can clamp them down and get neat holes for the curtain posts. Your workmanship is excellent and there are many super nice cars on this Forum but mine seems to fall somewhere closer to a rat rod but as I said maybe I will be able to clean up some of these details later, maybe. I have since trimmed the rubber strip along the top of the windshield.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don If you need I could send a side window, since the weather is starting to warm. You can use it for a pattern and send it back.

Here is a pic of the front that will show you the snap layout.
Stainless takes a slow drill and a hard bit.
Craig

Boxstr,
Thanks for your generous offer, but that won't be necessary. I can show your pictures to the top shop. Just wondering how you open the door when the clips ar on in the inside, unsnap the front edge? That last picture is also helpful. Thanks you very much. Let us know of progress with the LEDs in the headlight bucket.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don and others here is a very rough photo essay of the led turn signals I mounted in my 28 Ford RPU
The dot is one inch from the edge of the headlight, I then drill to the 5/8" on the step drill bit. The led lights are pushed in and the rubber o-ring is slipped over the back part of the light, this will hold it tightly in place. You then hook up the wires and test.
Any questions.
Craig

I have the lites shipped to me and I then modify them to fit into the reflectors, along with adding the o-rings and instructions. email me at camp914@comcast.net
Craig

Well add me to the headlight bar problem group...LOL! Wealth of info in this thread.

How in the world did hot rodders make it before the internet??? LOL!

Originally Posted by youther

Well add me to the headlight bar problem group...LOL! Wealth of info in this thread.

How in the world did hot rodders make it before the internet??? LOL!

Should we welcome you or just commiserate??

Well I ordered mine today from a place in NC. They are going to drop ship it from Gennie. Hopefully it will mount up without any problems.

After I looked at pictures of "a30coupe's" car before he got the headlightbar and used single mounts for each light, I might have went that route. It sure would have been cheaper...LOL!

Originally Posted by youther

Well I ordered mine today from a place in NC. They are going to drop ship it from Gennie. Hopefully it will mount up without any problems.

After I looked at pictures of "a30coupe's" car before he got the headlightbar and used single mounts for each light, I might have went that route. It sure would have been cheaper...LOL!

The nice part about headlight bars - they tie early Ford floppy front fenders, especially 'glass versions, together into a nice solid single unit. The fender brace, is then bolted thru the fender to the bar. Some folks don't bolt the outer part of the brace to the fender though.

Well you have convinced me asbout the H4 headlights and the LEDs from Boxstr are nice but I am still flirting with the bumper style turn signals. The kit is too expensive but I bought the flat mounting plates separately and found that side marker LEDs just fit the A bumpers. The only problem here is hiding the wire.

http://www.logolites.com/led/turn/signals/index.htm

I may still end up with the LED in the bucket but I have looked at one on another Shay-29 and you really could not see them with the headlights on. Still that Orange PU is one fine car!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don I have to agree, I think $169.00 seems a bit on the high side for turn signals
that I would be able to fab myself.
Craig

Originally Posted by boxstr

Don I have to agree, I think $169.00 seems a bit on the high side for turn signals
that I would be able to fab myself.
Craig

I have a feeling that what you are paying for is their little proprietary control box - which is fine if you need it. Most after market wiring blocks already have a flasher setup built in

IC2, I do not plan to buy their box. I just paid $6 each for four stainless steel brackets that fit the bumper bracket bolts between the upper and lower bar. I am hoping that I can just use the flasher unit from Speedway that clicks with less current just as I would have to use with the LEDs from Boxstr. I also purchased the four side marker LED which were about $8 each so I have about 4 x $14 = $56 in the parts so far without the special flasher; this includes rear as well as front turn signals. Considering that quite a few of the parts I have purchased turn out to be just the first try and then are replaced by something better, I am just trying to avoid continuing to buy two or three items until I get it (mostly) right. So far it has been a rather inefficient process. Originally I thought I would just carefully select the right parts but as progress went on I had to get second or even third parts as I learned things. I may yet try Boxtrs in-headlight LEDS but I already had the side marker lights so looking it over I will try to get them to work. I like the bright yellow lights in the bumper but I don't like the wires to show so if I am not satisfied with that I will get back to Boxstr.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don---Couldn't you bend some 3/8" thinwall metal tubing (like brakeline or hydraulic tubing) to follow the contour of your front bumper brackets and tack the tubing to the underside of the bumper brackets and run the wires thru it? If you painted it flat black or the colour of the brackets, nobody would ever notice it.---Brian

Brian, yes I thought of that some time ago but in terms of copper tubing that would be easy to bend into a serpentine shape but I did not think of steel brakeline, that is a better idea and would be easier to tack weld but I have a nice black enamel finish on the brackets and need to just tack the tubing in a few places. Still the steel would weld better. I might try the copper tubing idea and use epoxy to glue the tubing on the bottom of the brackets; some small holes can be drilled into the bottom of the brackets to aid attachment of the epoxy. Copper would offer some corrosion resistance down where splash water is commonand would be painted black on the outside as you suggest. Overall the lights in the bumper look more like the restorers solution than a traditional rod appearance but the ones I have in the rear do look pretty good if I can hide the wires. Note that the stock bumpers are angled at the ends so the flashers face to the side somewhat as do most "modern" turn signals and since I have invested heavily in the stainless bumpers, I think it really looks good in a "restorod" sense. Even so just discussing this helps me formulate this approach and I think I will try the epoxy-copper tubing idea if the plastic tubing idea does not work. I have purchased some black plastic "flex tubing" which is already black and easier to glue. I originally purchased this for the wiring over the top of the windshield for the lone electric windshield wiper but upon looking at it I note that it might be perfect to hide the wires under the brackets, Another possibility is to just to glue (epoxy) the wires alone to the bottom of the brackets. Since the brackets are thicker than the wires there is a pretty good chance the wires can be hidden underneath. I am studying the LOGO-Light pictures and the wires are only visible just behind the light.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder