Thread: So---With Visa card in hand I called Gennie Shifter---

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As far as buying 2-3 different parts to achieve a purpose - what makes you any different then anyone else That's what swap meets are for - sell the extras - but, of course, at a loss.

One item you may need to add to the LED lights wiring assemblies is either a 'special electronic' $35 flasher or a $5 resistor in each circuit. The LEDs do not draw enough current to activate a standard flasher. Take a look here http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/h...aillights.html

For possibly using tubing as a conduit, McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/) sells lengths of SS and have a fairly good selection of clamps. Type in SS TUBING on their search function in the LH column. I wouldn't spoil a good paint job if I could mechanically clamp an item by drilling and tapping a small hole.

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

Brian, yes I thought of that some time ago but in terms of copper tubing that would be easy to bend into a serpentine shape but I did not think of steel brakeline, that is a better idea and would be easier to tack weld but I have a nice black enamel finish on the brackets and need to just tack the tubing in a few places. Still the steel would weld better. I might try the copper tubing idea and use epoxy to glue the tubing on the bottom of the brackets; some small holes can be drilled into the bottom of the brackets to aid attachment of the epoxy. Copper would offer some corrosion resistance down where splash water is commonand would be painted black on the outside as you suggest. Overall the lights in the bumper look more like the restorers solution than a traditional rod appearance but the ones I have in the rear do look pretty good if I can hide the wires. Note that the stock bumpers are angled at the ends so the flashers face to the side somewhat as do most "modern" turn signals and since I have invested heavily in the stainless bumpers, I think it really looks good in a "restorod" sense. Even so just discussing this helps me formulate this approach and I think I will try the epoxy-copper tubing idea if the plastic tubing idea does not work. I have purchased some black plastic "flex tubing" which is already black and easier to glue. I originally purchased this for the wiring over the top of the windshield for the lone electric windshield wiper but upon looking at it I note that it might be perfect to hide the wires under the brackets, Another possibility is to just to glue (epoxy) the wires alone to the bottom of the brackets. Since the brackets are thicker than the wires there is a pretty good chance the wires can be hidden underneath. I am studying the LOGO-Light pictures and the wires are only visible just behind the light.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don--epoxy won't work in that application---rather, it will work, but to have enough to make it effective you will need so much that it will look terrible. That is definately an application for steel tubing welded in place.

Well, the big melt is underway here. Daytime temperatures have crept up to 60 degrees F at mid day, and my lawn is slowly emerging from its white shroud. (Sounds poetic, but Damn! I hate winter.) I have my new "lathe room" all drywalled, taped and plastered and painted, and the base for my new lathe is supposed to arrive here tomorrow. ---This will be good, as the drip pan for the lathe is really part of the base, and without it I can't really do any machining with a lubricant/coolant, or it goes all over the floor. Hopefully, I will soon drag this thread back to what I originally started it as, about installing the new Gennie Shifter" headlight bar and changing out my aftermarket front fender support brackets for a set of originals. I will be using the new lathe to machine a pair of oval, tapered shims from aluminum to fill the gap at the end of their ill fitting headlight bar. They advertise these bars as being universal fits, but they really seem to only fit the fender curvature on the 30/31 series fenders, not the 28/29 series which I have on the roadster pickup. Since I have the headlights apart anyways, I will be replacing the 7" sealed beams with some kind of direct replacement Halogen headlights. Thank you Irelands Child for your info placed earlier in this thread.

Yesterday, I built a jig to make certain that my"new" original Henry Ford fender brace had the same contours as my reproduction fender brace on the drivers front fender. the operation was very successfull as you can read about at
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...d=1#post305460

With the new fender brace bolted in place (this was to fix a tire scrub issue), I was then able to bolt on the new Gennie Shifter headlight bar and tightend down all the bolts. It now fits much better than it did before, and is perfectly level. I will still have to machine a couple of polished aluminum shims to make the ends of the bar fit the fender contours perfectly, but not as big as I originally thought. I ordered Halogen kits for my 7" King Bee headlights yesterday, so hopefully I will have this all buttoned up by next week for another summers cruising.---Brian

WOOOOHHHHHOOOOOO!!! LOL! Mine mounted up perfctly without one single problem. It actually fit better than the '31 dropped bar did. The '31 bar was longer and I had to loosen the bolts to the braces to get the fenders to drop so that I could get it to wedge in, but for the gennie bar I had to tighten the bolts back up to bring the fenders up for it. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

All finished up with Halogen headlights in place.--It looks a little "frog eyed" at the moment, because I can't get far enough away from it in the garage to take a good picture. I had to shorten the wire conduits about 5" on each side, and had to chuck the bolts that hold the King Bee headlights in place in the lathe and turn off about 1/8" from the square part of the bolt. The square shank under the head would not fit thru the Gennie shifter headlight bar hole, so when the nut was tightened down the headlights still wanted to "flop around". Other than that, and having to buy a new tip for my old soldering gun, the headlight transition went very smoothly.

Still interested in your type side curtains but I took the easy way out and bought the "It's A Snap" headlights that have the yellow LED separately on the bottom of the lens and they do fit in the 7" Dietz bickets I have. There is a lot of misinformation regarding the braided cable from the radiator shell to the headlight bucket. Anyway, I am happy to report that the Speedway Dietz (stainless) buckets do work with the "It's-A-Snap" bulbs which hold an H4 bulb in the top part and have a larger segment along the bottom of the lens that is separate from the clear part. For me it is easier to mess with the bucket installation although the It's-A-Snap unit is expensive. The main point is that I was able to look at and compare in hand four different lamps as well as their tests at the recent NSRA Richmond National Meet and I came home with the It's-A-Snap units. I like your LED in bulb but I would have to cut the reflector and the LED in that case is somewhat within the white light when the headlights are on. The slight advantage of the It's-A-Snap unit is that there is a partition between the LED part and the H4 part. Anyway I am just glad that at this point I have parts that go together, fit and work which is somewhat of a rarity for me! I also ordered a neat unit for LED tail lights from Bratton Model A parts which is just inserted where the stock lens would be and the leads plug into the stock bulb sockets so I will have LED turn signals all the way around.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Boxstr. I am still studying your side curtains and I like the use of the smooth snaps on the front edge of the windshield pillars. Although that is not an original setup it looks smoother than the pegs which leave a hole around the snap. I am attaching a picture of my Dietz stainless buckets now in place which shows the LED lens along the bottom of the "bulb" and it is clear when the LED is off. I am not sure if I can find wire covers long enough to use the bottom of the bolt because the stock cable sleeves are only 12" long and with the dropped bar the headlights are now lower relative to the grommet holes in the side of the stock radiator shell. One way out is to drill a hole in the back of the bucket for the cables similar to the way the stock Model A headlights attached the cable but I am trying to avoid messing up the shells with hand-drilled holes. I have the braided lines from Speedway but they are thin and it would be hard to get another wire in the thin sleeve for the turn signal light. The "It's-A-Snap" bulbs actually have three wires in addition to the usual three for the headlight but there is no way I/you can get six wires in that thin braided sleeve. If I have to drill holes in the back of the bucket I can attach the LED ground wire to the ground wire for the H4 bulb inside the bucket and cut off the wire for the parking light option so that I will only have one wire to the LED and hopefully by giving up the parking light option I can get the fourth wire through the braided cable. But first I want to try the thicker stock flex cable whoich might allow all six wires or certainly five using a common ground wire. Boxstr, I am sorry to not use your neat LED solution but the separation between the H4 area and the LED area is partitioned off here and I wanted to avoid fabrication with my associated foibles. The two circles on the firewall are special aluminum rims around rubber grommets for the heater hoses.

Don Shillady
Retired SCientist/teen rodder