Thread: So---With Visa card in hand I called Gennie Shifter---

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Don---Modify a brand new $300 polished stainless part in my garage???? Not in this life!! I will carve away on my 3 year old KingBee headlights, (where it doesn't show anyways). The bit of carving I have to do won't show, and it won't prevent the KingBees from being used on an original "untilted" bar if I ever want to. As far as getting money back or exchange from a hotrod part manufacturer---not too likely to happen.

Brian, I just went through this with my T. I orignally built my headlight bar with '27 Chevy lights on it, then switched to Guide 982 J lights that have a different angle to them. To get them to tilt up high enough in the socket, I opened up the slot where the carriage bolt is mounted so it can slide back further.

If you look at the place where the bolt exits the headlight there is a channel where the bolt can slide fore and aft. It hits at a certain point, but if you dremel it out and make the slot longer it will allow you to tilt the lights higher or lower, depending on which side you grind out.

That is assuming your lights have that slotted affair underneath them.

Don

Duh, I just saw that too. Story of my life, dollar short and day late.


Don

Hi Brian,

Well maybe you can get enough tilt by carving out the bottom of the light as IToldUSo says and you have already started. I have taken a few minutes to take a picture of my straignt dropped bar which definitely shows a tilt of the cups. I puzzled over this too as to which is the "front" but with a straight bar on a standard '29 radiator shell the bar can be straight and is reversible while with your '32 radiator shell there needs to be a bend in the bar. I am still of the opinion that out there somewhere there is a shift worker who bent a whole shift worth of dropped bars in the wrong direction and now Brookville and others are stuck with them and/or are unaware of the problem. The type of "swan-neck" dropped bar I have is also polished stainless and is available from Speedway for $120 for '32s as well as '29 Ford grills. Fortunately you are among the most skilled/talented participants on this FORUM so we will take note of how you solve the problem as I am sure you will. (I am surprised the photo shows smudges around the bolt mounts, that is not visible otherwise but is probably the result of greasy fingers messing with the bolts. This bar was mounted on my fenders but removed for paint and has not yet been reinstalled.) While I am here and can mount the bar either way, a question I would have is whether the chrome buckets I bought from Speedway need the tilt "UP' or "Down"? In the worst case I can probably reverse the bar if the tilt is too much in either direction rather than carve out the bottom of the bucket. My first guess would be to face the cups "DOWN" in front and see if the slot is long enough under the light? Maybe the tilt on the cups in Brian's bar are tilted in the right direction but the angle is too extreme? As usual it is a situation for "cut and fit"!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Brian, I just went through this with my T. I orignally built my headlight bar with '27 Chevy lights on it, then switched to Guide 982 J lights that have a different angle to them. To get them to tilt up high enough in the socket, I opened up the slot where the carriage bolt is mounted so it can slide back further.

If you look at the place where the bolt exits the headlight there is a channel where the bolt can slide fore and aft. It hits at a certain point, but if you dremel it out and make the slot longer it will allow you to tilt the lights higher or lower, depending on which side you grind out.

That is assuming your lights have that slotted affair underneath them.

Don

Don---see picture at bottom of post 43 or 44 of this thread.

Don---Definately tipped down in the front

OK - did my picture thing.

First one - headlight bar, Lokar conduit, headlight can with slot

Second - bar at 20*, headlight installed and rotated back to the max @ 30* - and enough to spot owls in trees.

After trying for 22* for several minutes gave in at 20* and said that is close enough (like horseshoes and hand grenades) to show the limits of how my set of lights will adjust

Well, What can I say!!! It looks like we have the same headlights, but mine aren't going to rotate back like yours without lengthening the slot in the bottom of my headlight cup.---Weird!!!

Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Well, What can I say!!! It looks like we have the same headlights, but mine aren't going to rotate back like yours without lengthening the slot in the bottom of my headlight cup.---Weird!!!

Maybe someone in Taipei or Shanghai has taken exception to your being from 'North of the Border'.

With a die grinder and a cut off wheel, it should be a fairly easy process - (sure it is, nice friendly cutting SS) - put lots of masking or duct tape around the slot for protection and try .25 longer to start with and go from there. Your trucks rake exacerbates the problem as well

Damn---Ah just hates it when Ah gets exacerbated!!!

Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Damn---Ah just hates it when Ah gets exacerbated!!!

Eh!!
It ain't contagious though

To me that slant on the cups of Brians new bar looks pretty extreme. Just for laughs, why not call Gennie and ask what the specs are to make sure yours is ok? Or maybe they have a suggestion?

(Boy I hope this wasn't covered in some other post or I'll have egg on my face one more time )


Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

To me that slant on the cups of Brians new bar looks pretty extreme. Just for laughs, why not call Gennie and ask what the specs are to make sure yours is ok? Or maybe they have a suggestion?

(Boy I hope this wasn't covered in some other post or I'll have egg on my face one more time )


Don

Do you like your eggs with bacon, ham or sausage??

DON---I think that a Canadian talking to an American, about some damn thing thats probably made in China, just ain't going to get much satisfaction.---Besides, I only have things together in "mock up" phase untill I get the new (well really the "old") original fender braces on, and everything tightened down. Things will probably change a bit, either for better or worse, and I will deal with it as I always so---(Bitch to everybody about it, then get out the die grinder or big hammer, and fix it).

[QUOTE=brianrupnow]DON---I think that a Canadian talking to an American, about some damn thing thats probably made in China, just ain't going to get much satisfaction


Brian - We love Canadians here in the US. Well, let me qualify that - some of the French only speakers traveling down I-87, about 2 miles from here, the main highway between the Montreal vicinity and the US South, are a trial - but ya'all come see us ya hear.