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Thread: Getting electrical through door jamb?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Getting electrical through door jamb?

     



    How do you hot rodders get your wiring bundles from the door through the door jamb into the cab. I have installed electric door poppers and power windows but don't see how to fish the wires through w/o them being jammed up when clsoing the doors.
    Thanks,
    Dave M.

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    There are two methods. One is through a hinged tube with the wires inside attached to the door post and into the door, the other is with contacts on the door jamb and door posts. I prefer the tube method. Numerous companies selling them. I always see them advertised in Street Rodder and other magazines. Bought the last set I got off eBay....now if I could find the invoice I'd let you know the company..... If I find it, I'll post it....Not exactly the world's best filing system around here... My secretary quit----about 18 years ago....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks Dave! You and others have sure been a help as this project has been a challenge all the way through... getting nearer the end now. I'll watch for you post.

    Dave M.

  4. #4
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    They are called door looms. You can do it the fancy expensive way like these

    http://www.streetrodhq.com/browse.la...t=380C&skip=13

    Or the cheap functional way like these in my Studie:
    Attached Images
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  5. #5
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks Pat!!!! and Here's a link for the Painless Wiring contacts. I've used them, they work great just a bit spendy like everything from Painless!!!!

    http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...SearchField=22
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  6. #6
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Welcome Dave, the problem I see with those is, if you have the door open, you have lost connection to any thing in the door, can't put the windows down, can't play music through the door speakers etc.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  7. #7
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yeah, I know. That's why I use the tubes, too!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  8. #8
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey Stu Cool, thanks for the pics. I'm assuming the hose is attached either inside the door, or the jamb. If so, how did you do that?

    Thanks, Dave M.

  9. #9
    halftanked is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Take a quick trip to an International truck dealer. They sell a nice curved and flanged metal wire guard to run wires out to your doors. I had a project ten years ago to add heated mirrors to all of our plow trucks,and these pices worked out very nice,They are cheap too! Hank

  10. #10
    brianrupnow's Avatar
    brianrupnow is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    This is the set I have in the roadster pickup. They are made from a stainless steel spring, tightly wound, and very flexible. They come complete with one rubber grommet and one hard nylon slide tube each. The gromet fits into a hole cut into the leading edge of the door and it "grips" the spring so it can not move. The slide tube has a shoulder on it and it fits into a hole in the door jamb, (I epoxied the tube into place on mine), and lets the coil slide thru it as you open and close the door. They work really great and are easy to install. Mine cost $45.00 thru Hortons in Milton, Ontario. 1-888-876-2124 part number FWC---Brian
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    Last edited by brianrupnow; 11-28-2007 at 07:21 AM.
    Old guy hot rodder

  11. #11
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by hedtrpr
    Hey Stu Cool, thanks for the pics. I'm assuming the hose is attached either inside the door, or the jamb. If so, how did you do that?

    Thanks, Dave M.
    Yes it is anchored inside the jam with a zip tie. Been a while since I have been in there, I don't recall what I anchored it too.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  12. #12
    MikeB's Avatar
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    Hey guys,
    I happen to carry wire looms in my online store, 3 different sizes.

    http://www.clparts.com/clshop/store.php?crn=85
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    Mike
    '56 Ford F100

  13. #13
    41willys's Avatar
    41willys is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I tried two different kinds of looms on the Willys. A S/S tube and a S/S flex. Neither would slide correctly due to the tight arc of the hinges on the suicide doors. I finally ran them on the interior side of the bottom hinge itself. I don't really like it but it works. Anybody have any better ideas for suidcide doors?
    John

  14. #14
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    redrodman48 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I know someone out there makes rubber ones, seen them quite often

  15. #15
    m falconstien is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    www.specialtypowerwindows.com Try these, I've used them on several projects without a problem. Mitch

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