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Thread: 1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    217-z is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 chevy impala
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    95

    Very nice build..

  2. #32
    mark craig's Avatar
    mark craig is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Silver Springs
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 ford fordor
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    all I can say is wow nice work
    Desert rat

  3. #33
    Rickomatic's Avatar
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    SLC
    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Chevy 2-door Sedan w/ a 350/350 combo
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    Great sedan. I am very appreciative that you are taking the time to document this. It helps guys like me that have about 1/100 of the skill and knowledge that guys like you have.

    Rick


    Pride Runs Deep

  4. #34
    EMSteiner's Avatar
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    Ok you have got me hooked. Very nice

  5. #35
    tango's Avatar
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    I think you have a cool build with a lot of good ideas . But I dont think its built strong enough to be safe . Rethink the front axle and rear torque arm set up . I have done a lot of chassis and frame work from cars to heavy trucks . Stronger is safer !

  6. #36
    ScooterCO's Avatar
    ScooterCO is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 ford five window
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    Super work on that body. Something I would like to mention is, you should install regular ball joints in place of the heims. Coming from a lot of off-road fab and wheeling experience, We use heims for off road use only! Anything streetable should run standard ball joints.
    In my build currently I am looking a failure in my split rear bones as well. Might want to read the mentioned link on Jalopy Journal. I need to rethink my project now!
    Keep the pictures coming!
    Thanks for sharing.
    Scott
    31 Ford five window

  7. #37
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    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
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    Thumbs up

     



    That looks like alot of fun!!!!!!!
    It also looks very nice ,I like the extended look and how low it is.Very cool....
    The pics ,make the track bar look close to the top of the rear end housing...........its probably just the angle of the pics...
    Sure looks alot different than the original photos ,have you sent some to the person you purchased it from ,I am sure they would like them also.
    Keep up the good work on the thread and the ride...and obove all ,keep posting the progress,I almost feel like working on my project after looking thru this thread
    Its cool to see all the progress happen over just a few pages,really makes difference.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  8. #38
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    [QUOTE=ScooterCO] Something I would like to mention is, you should install regular ball joints in place of the heims. Coming from a lot of off-road fab and wheeling experience, We use heims for off road use only! Anything streetable should run standard ball joints.


    I disagree completely. Spherical rod ends are perfectly fine for street use. You want to obviously use high quality ones, and put a large washer on the outside incase one fails, but they work fine. The majority of the kit car people like Total Performance, Speedway, etc use them exclusively on their hairpins. Admittedly rubber bushed ones give a little more vibration dampening, but on a rod that isn't particularly smooth riding anyway, the benefits are marginal at best.

    They are all I have run for the last 20 years or so, and I find them safer than the old tie rod ends IMO because the socket can come out of a tie rod end (although rare) whereas a bolt passes all the way through a rod end. Tie rod ends were not designed to be used on the end of wishbones, but they are ok there and lots of guys use them for the true traditional look. Me, I would rather use rod ends and not worry about being 100 percent traditional.

    Don

  9. #39
    brickman's Avatar
    brickman is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '48 chev Stylemaster
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    Low and mean, I like it already!
    I don't know about what the boys are telling you but I am sure they are looking out for everyones best interest.
    I truely love the look of a chopped chevy sedan with the visor, very very cool. I would love to sit in that baby even now. Keep us up on the progress.
    "Sunshine, a street rod and a winding beautiful Ozarks road is truely Bliss!"

  10. #40
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    OHMY34 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Chevy coupe 34 & 36 chevy sedan
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    119

    nice job! the car looks good. been through what you are doing. the 32 i have started out on a 4x8 piece of ply wood in a man's basement. 3 of us picked it up and loaded it in the back of a pick up truck. remember safety first. suggestion before you cut your doors loose. i took a piece of 1" tubing and went from firewall to the rear wheel housing. shaped to the contour of the under the door it will fit in the bottom body line of the car. in my pictures you can see what i mean ties the front and rear bottom pillars of the doors together.

  11. #41
    37 Caddy's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 Caddy LaSalle, 66 Lone Star Cobra
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    Very impressive. Watching your progress has been very interesting and I truly appreciate your inventiveness. I have fallen behind on my own build thread, 37 Cadillac LaSalle, but now I am anxious to get back to the garage.

    Keep it up!!

  12. #42
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    oldrodder43 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 Essex RS Coupe
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    Very interesting to read differing opinions on builds and such. All in all I call it an outstanding job of craftsmanship. I for one am benefiting greatly from the input on all of the build threads. But then when one knows nothing, it's easy to learn! And to ScooterCO, I'd sure like to have your pit crew! haahaa perley oldrodder43

  13. #43
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 41 willys coupe
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    I agree with Dave about the use of rod ends on the street. I have used them for years also. The only problem is lubrication and that can be solved easly by greasing the ball, or buying the ones with intergral zerk, and using the rubber seals. Speedway has the seals for $2 each (for 5/8").
    John

  14. #44
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Plymouth, 48,54 Heap
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    Beautiful job on the chop/channel; this is going to be an awesome ride when it's finished!!

  15. #45
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Not a ton of time on the chubby, but managed to get a couple hours this evening. Plan was to fab up some mounts to weld to the frame to mount the 1.5" x 1" tubing I am going span the floor out of.

    Pretty straight forward. Cut some 1/8" x 2" flat stock 4.5" long and bent it 90 degrees 1.5" from the end. Then cut some more 3" x 1/8" flat stock to match the angle. Welded it solid and then ground the back and top smooth to make sure the mount will fit up against the frame flush. I'll use a straight edge to make sure the top of the mount is flush with the top of the frame.

    I'm going to make 8, but ran out of 2" flat stock, so only 7 got made tonight.

    Hoping to get that floor made on Saturday and get the doors cut loose.

    Matt
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