1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.

[buckroseau]

last pic with some ureathane primer sprayed on the front end.

Matt

[bluestang67]

Buck some really great work and fabbing . Car has come along great and fast . This kinda build helps in keeping us all going if not with the work but the thought on where we will be heading .

[buckroseau]

Got a few hours in on the chubby today. Nothing real special, but took a little time.

Spent an hour or so sanding out the ureathane primer up front with 220. Once that was done I shot the front end with a couple more coats of DP90LF. I gave that about an hour to dry and then sprayed a couple coats of CASE/IH farm implement paint...non glare black. Stuff was fairly expensive....about $10 bucks a quart

I spent a few more hours this afternoon sandblasting small parts in the cabinet blaster. Hoping to drag the frame and a few other parts out of the booth tomorrow and load it up with some more parts.

Matt

[MNPoser]

Looking good Matt man....


Better get a dent in that can....

[buckroseau]

Got a few hours on the chubby in the last few days.

First couple pics are of that clapped out 350 I had. I kept hosing the block and head down with laquer thinner and scrubbing it with a wire brush. After I figured it was clean enough I sprayed it with some low-gloss engine brite foo-foo can paint. I just ran the overspray onto the valve covers, intake mainfold and timing cover since they were going to be coming off anyway.

The last 3 are after about 7 hours of work today. I was able to sneak out of work at noon and with a little help of a friend of mine for couple hours got a lot done. Just for fun I unbolted some parts off the motor and temporarily installed a couple parts just for the bling factor. The chrome kit is an ebay ho-chi-mien $60 special I friend of mine had some used performer manifolds laying around, I cleaned one of them up with the blaster and was able to get a used Edlebrock 600cfm carb for a $100 bucks. I've got a cam and lifter set coming, should be here tomorrow. Hoping to get that installed this weekend.

Matt

[Itoldyouso]

Coming along really well. How did that paint spray? Did it lay as nice as it looks in the pictures? Reason I ask is I'm thinking about it for my Dodge truck.

Don

[LRS30]

I see from the pics buckroseau you are a fan of the Toyota land cruiser... My brother and I just finished his FJ-40. Love the build tread look's great....Ryan

[buckroseau]

Coming along really well. How did that paint spray? Did it lay as nice as it looks in the pictures? Reason I ask is I'm thinking about it for my Dodge truck.

Don

Hi Don,

Actually sprayed very well...even better than I thought for the price. I had sprayed some ACE flat black rust stop paint a few months back, but I was unhappy with the color and sheen. We also sell this stuff where I work, so I thought I would give it a try. It seems a little shinier than the brochure. The sample seemed more flat, after I sprayed it seems more satin or semi gloss. I still like it, more of a deeper black than the Ace stuff.

Hope that helps, Matt

[buckroseau]

I see from the pics buckroseau you are a fan of the Toyota land cruiser... My brother and I just finished his FJ-40. Love the build tread look's great....Ryan

Ya..I'm a little more than a fan of Landcruisers Heres a pic of a car show this summer than my wife and I attended. Truck is a 78 FJ45 LPB landcruiser I restored and the Wagon is a 1965 FJ45 LV that I restored also.
I have a couple other FJ40's as well.

Thanks, Matt

[buckroseau]

Pics really don't look much different, but I kinda like looking at it so I figured I would take a couple pics. I had a mechanic buddy of mine come over last night for a couple hours and installed the new cam/lifters I got, new timing chain, intake mainfold carb, etc... He adjusted all the valves and kinda got everything set up.

I finished installing the chrome valve covers, water pump, alternator and a few other parts. It's amazing what a couple hundred bucks worth of shiny parts, edle brock carb and manifold, how good they make an old 350 look.

Matt

[buckroseau]

Been a couple weeks since I posted any work...because I haven't done any Had some important stuff going on the last couple weeks

Managed to get a couple hours in tonight. Spent that time bending up and flaring brake lines, got all the hard lines done.

One thing I did and didn't think about it until now is whether it would work or not, (although I can't imagine why it wouldn't work) Is that I mounted my adjustable proportioning block with the adjustment knob and presure switch down. I did that to make access to brake lines easier once the body is back on, and to route the lines. If anyone sees a reason why that wouldn't work..please let me know?

Another question for the brake guru's. I was able to round up the front axle off a 53 Ford F100. From my understanding the 53 -56 Ford F100 hub and brake set up will bolt right up to my 40 Ford axle with new inner bearings. My question is: I'm I going to have a problem with my Ford wire spoke rims fitting around the 53 drums? The 40 drums are tapered hard so the dish behind the wire spoke rims has no problem clearing the drum. Just wondering if I am going to need a spacer like my Ford 9" rear end?

Thanks in advance, Matt

[Dave Severson]

Looks good! I've had a proportionig valve mounted vertically, never had any problems... The brake fluid is under pressure, don't think it matters which way the valve is.....

[Itoldyouso]

Dang if you aren't rolling right along..........looks great. Your valve and switch will be fine that way. As for the brakes working with the wire wheels, yes you need the adapter that acts as a locating device for the wire wheels to sit correctly on the drum. Several people make these, like Rally America and maybe Wilson Welding. You said you bought a set for the back, so the same folks should be able to hook you up. If you don't use them the wheels tend to rock on the drums instead of holding firm.

If you need the bearing numbers and what mods need done to make the truck brakes work on the early spindles, PM me, I have it somewhere.

Proud of you guy, you are getting this thing done really well. The shiny stuff looks good on the engine too.

Don

[buckroseau]

Dang if you aren't rolling right along..........looks great. Your valve and switch will be fine that way. As for the brakes working with the wire wheels, yes you need the adapter that acts as a locating device for the wire wheels to sit correctly on the drum. Several people make these, like Rally America and maybe Wilson Welding. You said you bought a set for the back, so the same folks should be able to hook you up. If you don't use them the wheels tend to rock on the drums instead of holding firm.

If you need the bearing numbers and what mods need done to make the truck brakes work on the early spindles, PM me, I have it somewhere.

Proud of you guy, you are getting this thing done really well. The shiny stuff looks good on the engine too.

Don

Hi Don,

On the front brake drums and rims. I do have some thing 1/8" plates that I got the same time I ordered the rear 1.5" spacers. Those front plates have a little lip on the inside edge supposedly to center and support stock wire spoke rims. The rear spacer has that little lip machined into it, but the rear spacer is a lot thicker so it can clear that 9" rear end drum. I guess that is what I was wondering, if those 53 drums are tapered in like the 40 drums or big and flat like the ford 9" rear end?

Thanks, Matt

[Hotrod46]

Matt

Your car is looking very good! I have to agree with Don about your building speed. I think I've spent more time thinking about my car than you have building yours!

I don't see any reason why the switch and prop valve won't work like you have them. As long as you can get the air out, hydraulic systems aren't usually position sensitive.

Mike

Edit: I didn't see Dave's answer!