Thread: Fiberglass vs. Steel Running Boards

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G'mornin' Fellas,

I have a question-I will be ready for my Fenders and Running Boards for my '35 Coupe in the near future, and am buying everything I need through Wescott's because I believe they are the best in the business. I was going to use their Fiberglass Running Boards, however I have no experience with living with them, so I have a few questions:

-I really want the smoothy style, and I think it will be impossible for someone not to step on them. I have considered making some strips out of Brass, having them chromed, and attaching them. Anyone have experience with alternate ideas on protection?

-Wescott's Catalog states "Steel boards require expert Metalwork for perfect fit, including stretching for the proper arch, and are recommended only for use with rubber covers". Is it worth the work to step up to Steel? I know how to stretch and shrink Metal, have the Tools and such, but have no experience between the two (Fiberglass vs. Steel).

If the responses here are to use the Steel, do I need to put some sort of insulator (I don't want to use piping)between the Fiberglass Fenders and the Steel Running Boards?

What are the Pro's and Cons to smoothy vs. Rubber? Anything that I haven't considered here? Thanks for the info-

To protect the paint, I would use peel and stick product, like sign painters use for temporary signs. This can be replaced when they get too scuffed.

I like the 'glass running boards, since you don't need to worry about dents. Make sure they are very well supported underneath the flat surface most likely to be stepped on.......just in case your old lady is over 250! :-)

Like This!

If it were me, and I wasn't trying to go "original" on it, I'd go the fiberglass route. I prefer the glass smooth look as well. Just make sure that like HOTRODPAINT said, you reinforce it underneath. That way they don't crack or splinter.

Which ever way you go, do the support thing, because someone will step on them or sit on them. Smoothie Fabrications probably has steel boards for your car if you are interested in steel, but glass would work just as well.

My running boards are the original steel, Easily repaired by a good metal man and able to withstand a 300 lb person without damage. Couple of years ago one took a beating from an errant SUV, and lived. Dinged, by not dead.

Hi 35window,

Like you I was considering glass smoothie running boards for my 30 roadster or possibly going with steel. Everyone has mentioned that either way good support for your running boards is mandatory. I elected to have a set of running boards fabricated out of 14 gauge steel and I will be running matting over them. I just wanted my running boards to be able to withstand someone stepping on them and stilling looking good in the long run. I was worried about going with fiberglass so I chose steel. Good luck and do what will fit your needs for the long haul unless you are selling the vehicle fairly soon.

i used steel from smoothie fab. i used glass fenders. everything fit great. I used fender welt between boards and apron. originally just felt was used at the ends. . I have nothing there now, but may put it in. Smoothie sent support bkts. and said to attach with liquid nail? I tried that but endwed up mig welding. watch for dimples. I would liked to have put plywood under the boards full length for better support as they do give when nstepped on in areas other then where the bkts. are. Over time tis could cause a depression in the board.
Good luck on your choice.

I used smooth fiberglass fenders and running boards when I built my RPU 4 years ago, and they have stood up very well. I did build full length supports from steel, tied back into the frame to help support them, and I use a set of polished aluminum "step plates". No regrets at all.---Brian

I have worried over this but have not solved it yet. What I would like most is a narrow oval cut from aluminum diamond plate. An oval can be generated with two nails in drilled holes and a string between the nails with a little slack and then running a marker around the outline allowed by the string, BUT (!) how do I get it cut smoothly? I would be interested in suggestions as to how to cut the oval in a clean way. I plan to put 1/4" aluminum plate under the fiberglass running boards for strength but I would like an oval diamond plate piece on top. Another idea which is simpler is to cut a rectangular piece of diamond plate with an angled cut on the front edge. Still the simple answer is to use the FORD step plate from Speedway which looks pretty good on Brian's RPU. Another simple idea is to use a simple rectangle of diamond plate over the fiberglass.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Here is a picture Brian sent to me last year.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Thank you all for your replies, I really appreciate it! You have given me so many ideas that I need to ponder them for a while. For certain which ever way I go I will be sure to support them very well, and thanks again-

OK - I know, late as usual.

I have Lobeck smoothie steel running boards, Wescott 'glass front fenders and Albrecht steel rear fenders. The Wescott fenders were the worst fit up of the three pieces as they did not fit the fourth piece worth a darn which was the steel splash shields. The fenders were reasonably easy to fix - a grinder and some fiberglass plus a bit of filler.

What was really difficult was to put rubber coverings on the smoothie boards as they, first of all, are dimensionally a bit different then the normally covered version and needed some mods. But the worst part was finding something to make the so-called self stick on the back of the rubber coverings stick. It doesn't. I removed the stickum from the first pair of coverings and used the recommended DAP contact cement - useless. The second set of covers, I left the stickum on the boards and got some 2 sided commercial tape from McMaster-Carr. The coverings will never come off now -

(The reason for the second set of coverings was due to the fact that I cut them wrong to fit the trim pieces - my dum )

Dave,

Really nice job, they look great! Not glad to hear about Wescott's fit, however-I have always heard their stuff is the best which is why I was going to use them-you did a nice job there-

Originally Posted by 35WINDOW

Dave,

Really nice job, they look great! Not glad to hear about Wescott's fit, however-I have always heard their stuff is the best which is why I was going to use them-you did a nice job there-

Thanks - the struggle was worth it and the other one looks good too.

Even tho I b***h and complain, Wescott's are still, the IMHO, best quality 'glass parts for the long run. I did talk to Mary Wescott in '06 at an NSRA show and she took note and said they would look at their molds and make corrections if they felt were needed.

(You have a Priority Mail package on its' way today)

Originally Posted by IC2

(You have a Priority Mail package on its' way today)

Thank you very much!