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Thread: No Brake lights
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Matt167's Avatar
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    No Brake lights

     



    Well, I fixed the brakes on my Rambler, it had no brake lights, and I know it's a preassure operated switch so they wern't going to. well, the brakes work now, and still no brake lights.. where is the switch located? think I need a new 1
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  2. #2
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    Are you sure your brake lights are not actuated by a simple limit switch on the pedal? I am not sure about a Rambler, but most cars of that era just have a pushbutton switch that closes when you move the pedal arm. Check your fuses, too - often just a blown fuse takes our the brake lights, and the factory sometimes wired something else into the circuit to get your attention, like the dome light staying on 1/2 power on early 70's Chrysler products to alert you to something being wrong.

  3. #3
    Twitch's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 73 Z-28
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    Hmm. 1965 is probably in line on the brake system pressure activated. Gotta be under the hood way down low. When I get back from the doctor I'll look for my 73 Chilton which I think goes back to 65s. Those pressure switches are very universal too. Only a handfull cover 100s of cars and a regular auto parts store might have it.
    There is no substitute for cubic inches

  4. #4
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    (1) check for voltage at the brake switch, if yes, go to (2), if no, find fuse and trace wiring

    (2) short across pressure switch, do lights go on? If yes, change switch, if no, find fuse and trace wiring.

    (3) has some nimrod dorked with the steering column? Brake light wiring goes thru column circuit for turn signals.

    (4) check bulb for operation/corrosion....do running tail lights work?

    It's a really simple circuit!!

  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
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    well, I'v got turn signals but nothing else. gonna check fuses and stuff, pretty sure that's all it is being it's all out. anyway I do have a '65 Rambler American TSM on the way.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  6. #6
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
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    Any other lights out?

    A lot of cars have the interior light on the same circuit as the stop lights.
    C9

  7. #7
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    AMC's usually have a mechanical switch up under the dash.

  8. #8
    Matt167's Avatar
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    as per the owners manual description, a 6 amp fues protects the park lights, stop lights back up lights, and liscense plate light. I'm now thinking it's the switch, cause sometimes the lights work, sometimes they don't.


    I know most AMC uses a mech switch, just like I'm used to but, this 1 I'm pretty sure is preassure operated.. Galvins Rambler parts list's it as a preassure switch, there is no picture to verify
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  9. #9
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Never played with the old Rambler's much....some of the older cars had a brake switch right on the master cylinder????
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  10. #10
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I use the pressure switches on most everything I build.. Lots easier then messing with a bunch of linkage and wiring up under the dash on the brake pedal, usually too much stuff up there already!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  11. #11
    Twitch's Avatar
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    That pressure switch from Auto zone works for my 1950 Packard and for an old 63 Volvo I had long ago. There's about 5 different switches that cover danged near every car ever made. I checked Chilton but it doesn't detail the brakes of the Ramber. I'd still look for a pressure switch down at chassis level....
    There is no substitute for cubic inches

  12. #12
    Matt167's Avatar
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    cool... but I did find out.. the lights did work. there a little dim so I might change the switch as I checked the ground.. they are bright as turn signals. might be switch contacts are corroded on the inside
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  13. #13
    Matt167's Avatar
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    also... the brakes work but do not stay pumped up almost like pumping up just after bleeding every time. front brake circuit works fine but rear does this. any ideas? brakes seemed to bleed good.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  14. #14
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    C9x
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    Do you have free-play at the brake pedal?

    You need about 3/8" so the master cylinder port will unmask and allow make-up fluid in.


    Fwiw, if you're using silicon brake fluid it will creep past the internal seal and get into the switch insulating one side from the other.

    When new, the hydraulic switch operates the brake lights with very little pressure.
    If it takes more and more pressure at the pedal to operate the brake lights thats a sign the switch is leaking internally.

    Mechanical switches aren't difficult to install.
    Just need a little imagination.

    The one I installed 14 years ago is still as sensitive as it ever was.
    C9

  15. #15
    Matt167's Avatar
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    I just use DOT 3 brake fluid, too many downfalls of DOT 5 silicone fluid to even consider it in my book..

    I think I'm just going to get a new brake light preassure switch. as I don't have time to reengineer anything on the car.. car was supposto be drivable last week as it's my new daily driver
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

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