Thread: Roadster pickup getting closer

Tweet

I'm kind of the same way. We would go on a little trip (usually to please the lady in my life at the time) and after a day I was ready to go home.........but we tough it out because "if Momma ain't happy, NOBODY'S HAPPY."

Have a safe trip back to the mainland.

Don

Ken I must of missed you by a couple of minutes, checked some forums really quick, then to bed last night. I'm in the same boat wanting to get to the truck, but being side tracked by everything else. Off tomorrow and friday, and monday and tuesday as well, so hopefully updates soon!

It looks like we are getting down to the final bits of fabrication on the frame for Dan's RPU.............this weekend we worked on boxing the frame. The reason we have to box it is because Dan elected to have 3/16 steel bent up into a C channel shape for the siderails, rather than use box tubing. He wanted the front part of the frame tapered, and also wanted to "step box" the frame. For those of you not familiar with the term, step boxing is where the inside boxing plate is not flush with the outside of the frame, but is inset a little bit. By step boxing it, he can run lines and wires and they will be hidden inside the frame somewhat.

He bought some 4 inch wide x 3/16 steel plate, 16 feet long, and we sliced the lengths we needed from that. But before we could put the boxing plates in place we had to create something to keep them at exactly 5/8 of an inch from the outside edge. What we came up with was a bunch of 3/4 inch angle iron pieces about 1 inch long, that we welded into the frame to act as "stops" that the plates will rest up against. This way we can clamp the plates down tight against these stops and then fully weld them in place.

It took a lot more time than we thought, because first of all we had to drag the frame outside so we could sandblast the entire inside of it so it would be clean enough to weld to. Sandblasting is one of my very favorite jobs.(NOT) Even with a paper suit, goggles, and a respirator, sand still found it's way past all that. That is one more job I found that I wouldn't want to do for a living.

Once it was blasted we got the stops welded in place and cut the boxing plates to fit. There are three boxing plates per side, one under the body and two in the engine room section. There will be about 36 feet of weld to do, and Dan is going to have to do it a little at a time so it doesn't warp on him. He figures it will take most of at least next Saturday to get the welding all done. But boxing it did clean up the insides of the frame nicely, and now it looks like a more finished frame with them sitting in there.

Next step after the welding is done is to figure out how we are going to coat the frame. We don't think painting it will work real well because of all the nooks and crannys there are.........it would be tough to get paint evenly into all of those places. Powder coating is an option, but we have to figure out what we can do to smooth the frame out. You can't use body filler with the high heat of the powder coating process, so we are looking into all metal or lab metal as a means to do that. We just have some more research to do before we decide.

Here are some pictures.

Don

I missed one picture, showing the stops we welded inside the frame rails to keep the boxing plates at an even distance from the edge.

Don

Don,
There are a couple (or more) high temp body fillers that will work in temps that a powder coat oven runs at - i.e. :http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

and

http://www.alvinproducts.com/Products/Products.asp?id=2

I have to say that PC has worked well for my clumsy hands as I've dropped wrenches, bolts and engine parts with nary a gouge

Thanks for that info Dave. Lab Metal is the one we are considering. Can you use the regular Lab Metal in the powder coating process? They say up to 350 degrees, but isn't powder coating done at 400? I know they have the hi temp version, but it says you have to cure it at 400 to release solvents. Can that curing be done at the same time the powder coating is being cooked? or do you have to do that as a separate step?

Also, we want to make the frame as smooth as possible before the powder coating goes on.........does this lab metal sand and fair as easily and smoothly as body filler would?

Don

Wow, you and Dan have been busy. Can't wait to see the body on it.

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Thanks for that info Dave. Lab Metal is the one we are considering. Can you use the regular Lab Metal in the powder coating process? They say up to 350 degrees, but isn't powder coating done at 400? I know they have the hi temp version, but it says you have to cure it at 400 to release solvents. Can that curing be done at the same time the powder coating is being cooked? or do you have to do that as a separate step?

Also, we want to make the frame as smooth as possible before the powder coating goes on.........does this lab metal sand and fair as easily and smoothly as body filler would?

Don

Don,
Curing would be done "at home" (with heat lamps? Time?) as you are prepping it for the PC. You just have to remember that any of your "favorite sandblasting work has to be done before the PC - in other words, blast, do your filler work, scuff with red Scotch Gard then PC. And NO!!! It does NOT sand as well as say your favorite Rage fillers, regardless of anyone saying that it does


Whoops - Scotch-Brite ( Scotch-Gard for sure wont clean up steel!!!!)

I like the step box, like you said it give a place to hide the wiring and plumbing.
BradC

Any updates Don, or has he changed his mind on started a 4X4 roadster pickup.......LOL
BradC

I wish there was more to report, but things have slowed down a bit lately. Like I mentioned earlier, Dan has taken over the management of another property and is working 15 hour days to get it in shape. Plus, me being back to work puts a damper on it too, as I am working 50+ hours a week. Darned earning a living thing sure gets in the way of fun stuff, doesn't it? But is sure is nice to see my bank account getting back in the black again.

We spent the day at the shop yesterday actually, Dan worked on his frame a little and I worked on my Dodge. He has a few minor things to weld onto his frame before it can be metal finished and powder coated......stuff like the gusset under the steering box, the rear four bar brackets need finish welded, and we have to notch his rear crossmember for driveshaft clearance. He got the first two things done, leaving only the notch left to do.

I got the bracket for my Moon tank done and he welded it on for me, so that is done. I also decided to mount the headlights on some SoCal brackets, and will get those ordered this week. I also revised my front perch a little to drop the front end another 2 inches.

Now that Dan has stopped shooting for Turkey Run some of the pressure is off, and he seems to be ok with it. He is more interested in concentrating on his job right now, so I understand how he feels. But the plans are to try to get a Saturday or Sunday in every week and get some small stuff done, then maybe shoot for having it done for Billetproof in March. The other thing is that it is just too stinkin' hot in the shop these days to feel like doing anything. It should start cooling off a little in October, so we can make more progress then.

Thanks for asking though.

Don

I was hoping for some new pictures . i'm not sure what to read on the forum these days without a daily Don build thread update .

Thank you. Well, I still have a lot of cat pictures left over.........

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Thank you. Well, I still have a lot of cat pictures left over.........

Well.., there's nothing like a few pussy pictures to keep things interesting...

Since the big push for November is off, any chance you'll be coming over for the Daytona Dream Cruise? My offer still stands.

What is the new job? Are you back at the same place you used to work?

When is that Jim?

Don